Amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Pretty Kool :D
100 posts about a firing pin stop.
The part is machined from Oversize A2 stock, No mim need apply!
45 to 49 rc. We have sold about 12,000 so not so much a secret ;)
They should be selling for 15.00 retail. But if you act now, and check out our new shopping cart :) and mention in the note field that you saw offer #323 on the LTW forum we will sell you a stop for 13.00 plus shipping. and if you act now well throw in a shock buff :neener:

As to verification that it works.
First case study from Larry Stuerwald that was the gunsmith for Para for several years. He was having problems with P-10's leaving rounds in the chamber. We put a square corner stop in and it worked fine, took it back out and it started leaving cases in again.

Gary Heindman from Ace custom 45 uses it with his 45 super, he said because of the stop he was able to drop 4# in his recoil spring.

Very recently a customer was having problems with a very short Kimber with the same results, std stop and it would leave rounds in the chamber (external extractor gun) with the stop it slowed things enough that the gun funtioned fine.

Funny that you guys mentioned Austin, it just so happens I worked there for 4 years in the late 80's, and yes if raising the contact point on the hammer allows a light load gun to funtion it stands to reason lowering the contact on the hammer would do the opposite.

Thanks for all the positive feedback.

geo
 
EGW and George Smith

Ladies and laddies...I give you Mr. Evolution Gun Works himself. :cool:

Howdy George! Welcome aboard.

I ordered 5 of those stops from you a few weeks ago, when Brownells kept tellin' me that they were out of stock. I don't know if it was you that I talked to or not, since I didn't ask and the guy I talked to didn't give a name...but he told me that anything that Brownells carried from EGW, I could order direct. I'll probably order a few more next week, since I made the mistake of doin' a few for the guys down at the range...and suddenly I've been swamped with requests for more. :eek:

The general reaction...besides the obvious...was: "What a great idea! Why didn't somebody think of that before??!!" When I told'em that somebody had
thought of it over 90 years ago, they were flabbergasted and mystified. To date, I've installed over 30 for for the PHA club members alone...with requests for 7 more as soon as I get settled in the new house.

As a side note...I've got an early 40s production High Power on loan here...
complete with internal extractor and...you guessed it...a small radiused firing pin stop. 'Magine dat! :p
 
This is an prime example of how this site has so much useful information that is shared amongst its members.

I have a question for everyone.
What if the FP stop is not beveled at all? Would the slide be too difficult to retract?
Would this cause some type of malfunction or does it need to have, at the minimum, the 5/64th bevel?

Regards, Mercury.

BTW, Brownells has them in stock again.
 
I'm glad this thread resurfaced. Today I was looking at a couple 1918's (or were they 1917? :D ) that have not yet been sucked into the void of no return in Tuner's basement. :evil: The "original" 1918 USGI has a small radius firing pin stop. The 1918 USGI Augusta Arsenel redo has the "modern" larger rediused stop.

I've shot both types of stop in modern 1911's. The recoil seems less with the smaller radius stop and it is quicker to return to target. It works for me. Thanks Tuner.

And thanks George! Your product is a welcome improvement. Welcome to our little pastime!
 
suggestion

I'm new to this group. I've been lurking for a while and would like to add a suggestion. The pistol is different, but the concept is similar.
I have an officers ACP .45 that when the hammer was down had a small amount of play in the hammer. The hammer was not under tension. This gave the slide a running start before beginning to compress the main spring. Recoil was brisk. I installed a longer hammer strut from Cylinder & Slide Shop (via Brownell's) which placed the hammer in tension all the time. It made a slight improvement in felt recoil. I expect the same thing would help a 10mm. Even if there is no detectable looseness in the hammer, the increased tension would probably further delay unlocking.
Apologize for the user name. All the good ones were taken. Just ran a finger across the keyboard.
 
You have a point. We usually start with the perception that the pistol has been correctly put together in the first place, at least until informed otherwise. Today too many firearms leave the factory without adequate inspection, and this is something we shouldn?t forget.
 
Floppy hammer

Howdy dhttuu, and welcome aboard! Bout time that ya came outta the shadows. :cool:

I run into the same deal once in a while. It's usually a spec issue or tolerances stacking up in the wrong direction. My fix involves facing a few thou off the top of the mainspring cap to let it sit a little higher in the housing. A quick-fix is just to remove the cap retaining pin and let the cap
ride fully up against the end of the strut.
 
Kimber takes what?

I was curious about this myself from the start of this thread... Never thought that it would go this long and still not have an answer.

Good news. I just called EGW and talked with Jeff. Great guy and very knowledgeable. According to Jeff, Kimber owners can safely order a Series 80 stop for the Kimber series II in .45. If you have a series I or pre-series designation than a series 70 stop should be used.

I should also note that Jeff did say that a series 80 stop should work in most all 1911's out there. (I think early on Tuner said this as well)

Hope this helps!

Ken
 
It helps if it is correct.........but I have my doubts. A Series I Kimber and a Series II Kimber, unlike a Series 70 and 80 Colt have no difference at all at the extractor or FP stop plate. You can use either a Series 70 or 80 extractor in either a pre-Series II or a Series II Kimber. So, why would a Series II take something different than a pre-Series II? I'm of the opinion that either will work in either model.
 
He compared the Series 70 Colt to a Series I Kimber and a Series 80 to a Series II Kimber. He did also mention that the Series 80 would work in most all guns out there.

If there is no difference in the slides of either model, I dont know why either. Just figured that I would make the call and ask so that I could get some on order as well. Just posted what I was told. I dont have a Series I to take apart and measure. As has been noted before, they are really nice people over there - If you dont mind to make the call and clarify. Just be sure to post what you learn.

Ken

edited to add...
Quote from Kruzr here: http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=130328&highlight=egw

Kimbers (all of 'em that have them) take Series 70 type internal extractors. If there is a difference between a Series 70 and 80 FP stop (?), then you want a Series 70 for the Kimber.

The reason you need a Series 70 type grip safety for a Series II Kimber is the thickness of the arm. A Series 80 type has a thinner arm that won't engage the push rod for the FP block. The Swartz safety is not like the Series 80.
end quote

And that kinda nullifies your last post about there be no difference at the extractor or the FP stop from your own post. If I knew from personal experience I would have posted on that. I will take the info from EGW and run with it.

Ken
 
Last edited:
Did I miss something?

I see no contradictions in Krusr's posts.


In Colt guns there is a difference between a Series-80 and pre Series-80 firing pins. You can use a Series-80 firing pin in a pre Series-80 gun but not vice-versa.

As has been stated before the Kimber and Colt safties work differently.
 
He compared the Series 70 Colt to a Series I Kimber and a Series 80 to a Series II Kimber.
Click to expand...
That explains his misunderstanding.

And that kinda nullifies your last post about there be no difference at the extractor or the FP stop from your own post. If I knew from personal experience I would have posted on that. I will take the info from EGW and run with it.
Click to expand...

Where did it nullify anything? Was there something I did to offend you? I can't seem to find it. :scrutiny:
Run with whatever you want, apparently either will work (and take it easy on the coffee.)
 
I have a question about fitting the stop. It is oversized, but how? Is it thicker, so that all you have to do is sand down the back of it to fit it???
 
Many stops are slightly thicker and need to be slightly thinned.

But there's often more than that.

Most stops also need to be fitted to clear the ejector. For example Commander and .38 Super/9mm models have a differently sized ejector than the one used in the standard .45 Government model.
 
The Series 80 firing pin stop is cut for the series 80 lever on the right side and on the left for a Commander ejector.
This will fit any gun we know of. Govt commander officers, 9 38s 40 10 and 45.

The series 70 fp stop has no cut out on the right for the ser 80 (hence the ser 70 discription :rolleyes: ) On the Left side it is cut for a 5" 45 ejector.
the GI ejector.

As soon as you leave the 5" gun the ejector changes in almost all gun.
(SIG's smaller guns will probably use the 45 full size ejector)
So if you have a ser 70 commander in 45 the ejector will hit the fp stop.
same for any just about every short gun, commander or officers model.

IF you file out the path for the ejector you will most likely leave a square inside corner and as a commander it will be closer to the firing pin hole and crack through faster than you will like. The stops are both made with a corner radiused endmill to leave a .020 radius in the inside square corner on either side. If one fails we will replace it free, provided you did not file the radius out.

Kimber's series 2 safety is different from the Colt/Para ser 80 cut out.
if you have a 5" kimber you can use a ser 70 45 stop.

Fitting
We made the stop to the widest slide cut out I have ever measured.
.482 you will almost always have to fit it side to side. if you do it by hand take a little at a time and check yourself with a caliper, hold it up to the light and see that you are strait and even, do one side and finish than the other, equil amounts.

they are .100 +/.0005 -.001 and you will have to remove stock from the stop or open the cut out in the extractor for it to fit some times.

This gage is what we use to check the slide size, you can than install the extractor and see how wide you want to be.
http://egw-guns.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=38&products_id=63

Sorry for any confusion we may have caused
geo
 
Check Often

George said:

...Do it by hand take a little at a time and check yourself with a caliper, hold it up to the light and see that you are strait and even, do one side and finish than the other, equal amounts...
***********************

This is easier to do by laying the file down and pulling the side of the stop lengthwise on the file, instead of clamping the stop and trying to control the file. It provides more control if you can arrange to have the file roughly at eye level, and draw the stop toward you.

Also...Once in a while, you'll find a slide that the stop is a little too thick to
fit into. Rare, but it does happen. Thin the stop from the forward side...(As oriented in the gun)...and cut by drawing the stop on the file. Remember to break the sharp edge around the hole lightly with a countersink or a tapered stone to prevent a stress riser/crack from forming, and to give the butt-end of the firing pin a smoother path.

George...I'll probably call tomorrow. The last 5 that I ordered have been spoken for, and I need a few more. :cool:
 
Part 2

:) Hi Tuner,
Is "The Function of a 1911 - Part II" available yet? I don't know where I got Part I, so I cannot refer. I'd sure like to make "Part II" required reading also!

This thread has been a real thought provoking, eye-opener for me! :banghead:
 
I read thru this thread about a week ago and had one of thos "light bulb" moments. I bought a Hi-Power a few months ago and immediately pulled out the 32lb hammer spring and replaced it with a 26lb spring. I also put an Olympic Arms 1 in 16 twist barrel in it cause all I shoot is cast. Long story short after about 100-120 rounds without cleaning the gun gets a little difficult to go into battery. This is due to bullet lube and crud gunking up the little recess in the breech face where the hood locater pin "thingy" goes. After reading this thread I thought just maybe I'm the cause of all this crud because the gun is opening a little too soon blowing the lube back into the slide. I put the 32lb spring back in and now over 200 rounds later with no cleaning everthing is running fine. The good thing about it was since I had polished the sear and hammer the 32 lb spring only added about 1/2 lb to the trigger pull. Thanks for a great thread! Nick
 
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