Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by UKWildcatFan, Aug 7, 2016.
PS: They're going for ~60-65 bucks last time I checked.
They seem to be one of the least expensive lowers and I have seen them as low as $40 at times. They look to be fine to me though.
Because the lower can be used for "multi" calibers. 5.56/223, 300BLK, 6.8 SPC, 7.62x39, 6.5 Grendel, 9mm, etc hence the designation of "multi" on the side.
I suppose that marking them "multi" is a selling point. That way, the buyer won't feel limited to building the gun in .223/5.56 mm.
Last year, when I was putting together a few extra AR's, I found that Anderson lowers were the most commonly available and the cheapest. Nothing wrong with them, quality-wise.
I don't like the vague "multi" caliber marking. I want the lower specifically marked for the caliber. I had to do some looking to find lowers that were specifically marked. "Multi" seems to be the current trend.
By marking the lower Multi, the user should at least not assume it is chambered for 223 Rem/5.56 Nato and investigate farther to learn the actual chambering.
Over the past few years, I have gotten one or two uppers that were stenciled in the cartridge that I was building the rifle for. Nice idea and the light bulb went on. For others, I used a vinyl cutter to make a stencil and using Duracoat marked my blank uppers with the cartridge.
I have AR's chambered in eight different cartridges and some are identical to others except for the chambers. I'm more comfortable being able to easily see what the rifle is chambered in.
I have several Anderson lowers. I like them. They are AR-15s regardless of the roll marking.
Some feel differently because of the stamp brands, but to me a lower is a lower is a lower.
They work. Just buy the shorter screws.
The only real thing to note is what Browning touched on: The grip screw hole is not tapped all the way into the receiver. That's fine if you use an anderson or magpul grip screw, but regular AR screws are too long. And you can't run a set screw up into the frame to take out the creep. BUT there is a fix: simply tap the hole the rest of the way into the receiver. It's easy and aluminum is soft, but it is an annoyance.
I built it up as a 5.56 pistol, but will soon be getting a .300 BO upper.
Can't agree, particularly where Anderson Gen. I lowers are concerned. Many I have seen were out of spec in critical areas. Compare one side by side with a top shelf offering like Aero Precision's and you will immediately see the difference.
The Anderson Gen. II lower with integral trigger guard seems to be better. Perhaps their QC will hold up with the new generation.
At least that is the oral history that I was told, many years ago.
Take a look at a S&W. M&P. 15, I have a pair of them with NO CALIBER markings of any kind.......I was mighty surprised when I realized that when logging them into my boundbook
As far as that goes, the boltguns I have seen are marked on the barrel, not receiver, as are most shotguns.
Yes, I ran into this problem when assembling my Anderson lowers. The grip screws from a commercial lower parts kit were too long (and would not bring the grip tight against the receiver). But when I got real mil-spec grip screws from a trusted vendor, they were the right length. It seems that commonly-available commercial grip screws are being made longer than the original mil-spec grip screws. Perhaps this is to accommodate the wide variety of aftermarket grips.
If the grip screw hole is tapped all the way through, you run the risk of a too-long grip screw intruding into the fire control cavity, and impinging on the trigger. This could be a serious safety issue. (It could reduce trigger engagement with the hammer -- the hammer could slip off the sear portion of the trigger.) It appears, therefore, that Anderson is making their lowers this way for a reason. Kudos to them. (Think about it -- tapping the hole all the way through would actually be easier.)
How many Gen I Anderson lowers were put out in comparison with the Gen II's? (That's a real question, not a leading one). Just took a look online and I can't find a single one.
For myself and helping out family and friends and the guys I worked with at the Fire Dept I've put together Superior Arms, Rock River, Noveske, Anderson, Aero, CY6/SLR-15, PSA and DS Arms and haven't had many issues except for the the uptake adjustment set screw on the CY6/SLR-15 wanting to come loose (just ended up locktiting it in place), the trigger pin and hammer holes on one PSA lower were egg shaped (my buddy sent it back and got a refund and went whole hog and bought a Seekins Precision rifle) and then the different sized screws on the Andersons. That's it. That's the extent of the trouble I've had.
With the Anderson I knew about the shorter screw and I bought 3 beforehand for the two I had (they're $2 from Anderson). So that wasn't much trouble at all.
They don't have cool guy rollmarks and instead of a box like the others they came in baggies from the FFL and I didn't spend any time at all going over the thing with calipers. I just assembled them and they worked. :Shrug
Like many issues that people talk about online I suspect that there were problems at one time, the company fixed the problem (hence the reason for the Gen II) and people still talk about it even though it's no longer relevant information for shooters currently assembling them.
Any experienced assembler of an AR should be competent enough to know to check for issues long before a first round is ever chambered. I know some just slap them together as fast as they can and get to the range without anything but basic function testing, or don't fully understand what they assembled. Understanding what you are putting together and how the parts work is important. The issue you describe should be easy enough for even the most novice assembler to identify.
Before I put a single part on an AR lower, I lube and run a 1/4 x 28 tap all the way through and clean out any debris from that hole, every time.
FYI, Some triggers use that hole for adjustment parts and it has to be fully tapped, like Jard.
Putting a set screw in that hole could be a way of adjusting trigger engagement, for those who know what they are doing. The problem is that many AR builders don't know what they are doing.
You always have to assume the lowest common denominator.
Next time I'll make sure that distinction is understood.
Just saying it's hard to go wrong these days with both parts and lowers compared to what it was like in the 90's.
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