Another thing that contributes to case life is the type of rifle/handgun.
I've always seen that semi/full auto rifles/beltfed, beat brass worse than a redheaded stepchild.
With 7.62x54R in the Ugly Annealer, I've actually tried a few different things. I've tried adjusting the left side of the hopper out a little bit because I kept getting jams with the rims of the cases getting caught on it. Adjusting the feed wheel out away from the body of the annealer helped a little bit, but the one thing that seemed to help the most was using the 338 Lapua insert in the feed wheel rather than the 300 Win Mag insert. The lower wheel seems to be a bit more tedium to deal with if you're doing 300 Blackout though. The thicker one seems to be too thick, and the thinner one seems too thin unless you space it out far enough that it almost feels counterintuitive.I know I went back and forth for some time about annealing. I shoot quite a bit of 7.62x54r, and while not the most expensive brass it also isn't lying around everywhere.
I neck size my brass. I know it has fallen out of fashion for some, but a rimmed cartridge responds well to neck sizing and doesn't have the same concerns as a rimless design such as the 308.
Also, a military rifle generally has a larger chamber, along with a robust extraction system.
I started developing cracks in the shoulders of the brass, so decided to try annealing. I first used the torch and socket method, getting good results with a metronome device in my phone to time the cycle. I have gone well over 25 loadings without full-length sizing.
Since then I've gone with an Ugly Annealer. While I still have to overcome some design problems inherent in the machine regards handling rimmed cartridges, overall I like the machine and the results.
I can say that I would indeed purchase the same machine again, for the job I do. If I shot mostly 223, which is lying around to scoop up (much like 38 Spl and 45 ACP used to be decades ago) I would probably just shoot the stuff 3 times and trash it.