Quantcast
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Another Coating Thread

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by MikeJackmin, Jan 13, 2006.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. MikeJackmin

    MikeJackmin Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2005
    Messages:
    1,519
    I've searched the previous threads and didn't really find what I want. (I strongly suspect it doesn't exist yet...)

    I'm looking for a perfect gun finish which will be 100% effective at stopping rust. I want to be able to coat every internal part, every spring and screw and pin, even the inside of the barrel. Add a synthetic stock, and I want be able to leave my gun lying in the front yard for a year without damage.

    Stainless steel rusts; even hard chrome rusts eventually, and most of the fancy paints don't work on springs or small, closely-fitted parts.

    I realize this is a pretty tall order, but after all, this is the 21st century. Does such a wonder exist?
     
  2. Infidel

    Infidel Member

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2003
    Messages:
    279
    Location:
    TX
    Cosmoline
     
  3. Shipwreck

    Shipwreck Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2005
    Messages:
    3,624
    Location:
    Texas
    NP3 by Robar is probably the toughest thing after you ruled out hard chrome.
     
  4. dakotasin

    dakotasin Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2002
    Messages:
    4,777
    Location:
    Transient
    www.fit4duty.us
    get the microslick treatment on it while you're at it.
     
  5. rangerruck

    rangerruck Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    8,374
    Location:
    Texas, baby!
    take off the stock then let the whole rig sit in molycoat, if you can afford it. When you put it back together, coat the outside with good ol carnuba car wax.
     
  6. Sunray

    Sunray Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2003
    Messages:
    10,786
    Location:
    London, Ont.
    "...I strongly suspect it doesn't exist yet..." You're right. Steel is a man-made thing. Nature doesn't like that. Nature wants everything to be in its natural state. Rust is nature's way of returning the components of steel(chiefly iron) to its natural state.
    SS is also man-made, as you know, but it takes longer to go back to its natural state. Its high nickle content does it. Nickle isn't ferrous. It's an element. SS is currently the best material for resisting corrosion. The quality of it matters.
    Hard chrome is also high in nickle, as I recall. However, one doesn't hard chrome the bore of a barrel. It'll change the bore diameter. Hard chroming adds a few thou of material.
    Only ferrous metals rust. Polymers, like those used in Glock frames, don't. Al doesn't rust either. Al will corrode, but it won't corrode like ferrous based metals will.
     
  7. David W. Gay

    David W. Gay Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2004
    Messages:
    119
  8. jerkface11

    jerkface11 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2005
    Messages:
    5,498
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Ah yes good ole bearcoat. If you're nice they may even return all of your gun. :D
     
  9. Highland Ranger

    Highland Ranger Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2003
    Messages:
    2,299
    Location:
    New Jersey Highlands
    Putting on my industrial equipment engineer hat:

    Ahhh Bearcote . . . . if I had a spare 6 hours I'd go back and read that thread.

    Partially true as far as materials guns are made out of.

    However there are far more corrision resistant materials, especially for atmospheric conditions (i.e. acid rain, salt water) which are fairly non-agressive.

    Let's see if I can still name the alloy hit parade, in order of corrosion resistance, and assuming cast/wrought equivalence:

    cast iron, steel(s), stainless steel(s), alloy 20, hastelloy B, Hastelloy C, nickel, monel, inconel, titanium, zirconium . . . . I think I missed a few.

    Here's the rub: when you make any machine out of metal, you design around a rate of corrosion and how much loss the part can have and still function.

    You also look at whether the material us suitable for it's intended purpose (example, you can't make springs out of everything) Cost is also a factor - steel is dirt cheap when compared to some of those higher alloys.

    Anyway, answering the question, if you want to leave it laying on the lawn for a year (or ten for that matter) titanium would do it for you if we were only talking about acid rain. If the gun was on dirt, you'd also have to consider the Ph of the soil.

    Coatings: are great. I am really impressed with my HK USPs and whatever they put on there. Problem is, a coating is just that - a coating. Once it wears or scratches, you are back down to bear metal again and the clock starts ticking.

    And seeing as how the bullet contacts the barrel on the way out the gun, a few mils of anything will eventually wear off and you're back to steel.

    So I wouldn't leave anything made of coated steel lying on the lawn for a year if I expected to use it ever again . . .
     
  10. Highland Ranger

    Highland Ranger Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2003
    Messages:
    2,299
    Location:
    New Jersey Highlands
    Another thought - metals "oxidize" differently.

    Rust refers to iron oxide which is associated with alloys made with iron (steel, stainless etc.)

    Aluminum oxides differently - essentially the aluminim that is exposed turns to aluminum oxide and forms a "self-sealing" coating of sorts. If I remember correctly, titanium and some of the other alloys work the same way.

    So a lot would depend on whether the weapon was moved, or used during that year. i.e. if you used the right alloy, you'd get an initial layer of corrosion and then it would stop.
     
  11. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2002
    Messages:
    22,321
    Perfection exists only in the mind of God.
    The best attempt I could think of would be stainless steel with hard chrome on the bore and small parts, one of the heat cured coatings over sandblast on the big stuff. But nobody does aftermarket or even factory commercial chrome bores any more, I haven't heard of the old Marker Machine Co. in years. So you would have to start with a military weapon with chrome lined barrel and have it plated and coated everywhere else for protection against neglect.
     
  12. TechBrute

    TechBrute Member

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2003
    Messages:
    3,264
    Location:
    DFW, TX
    Ack... you had to mention Bear Coat.

    The Robar NP3 is a step in the right direction. I don't believe there's anything infallable out there, and I've had first-hand knowledge of some CS issues with Robar, but I believe they are still reputable and above-average.
     
  13. AirForceShooter

    AirForceShooter Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2004
    Messages:
    2,758
    Location:
    Central Florida
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page