Antiquing a Colt SAA Clone.

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justin22885

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im looking at buying a colt SAA clone... and i was curious as to whats different, and what was done between the two models in which i will link photos to.. the first appears to be a smokeless style frame, it has the base pin latch on the side of the frame.. the second appears to be the older BP style frame with the base pin screw on the front of the frame... i like the style of the first revolver better, and it will probably be the one i buy.. however, i do want an antiqued finish like the second one posted.. both have a case hardened frame... but why does the first have swirls, and the second does not?.. what was done differently? can the first be made to look like the second?

http://www.uberti.com/firearms/images/1873_cattleman_nm_steel_lg.jpg
http://www.uberti.com/firearms/images/1873_cattleman_om_oldwest_lg.jpg
 
The second one (BP) appears to already have been antiqued. That's what many of the well used guns looked like after much finish wear, even the case colored ones.
 
yeah.. i know, but.. i dont want the BP frame, but they dont offer the standard frame in the antiqued finish.. so how would someone antique one of the first models shown?
 
Serious. Vinegar can be used to remove bluing. I think it turns the metal kind of a plum color. The question mark was because I've never done it; just read about it.
 
well... i could just shoot the crap out of the new revolver.. not caring too much about preservation, and it shouldnt take too long to wear it out naturally.. i may just do that
 
well, doing some further research, chemically aging the finish is rather unnatural, not as authentic, and not as good of an end result... blue and the swirls in case hardened objects fade over time, from exposure to UV light which breaks it down molecularly... if i put this thing in a box with some UV lights for a bit.. thatll make it look 100 years old in a couple weeks
 
No, it won't.

If you carry it in a dusty holster on a horse for about 50 years, and wipe it off after every rain with your dirty shirt-tail, it will look old in about, oh, 50 years.

The fact is, there is no good way to chemically or otherwise duplicate the surface sheen and patina of natural aging to make a new firearm look like an old firearm.

If you like the looks of the aged BP frame Uberti SAA, go for it.
In many respects, the screw retained base pin is better then the "newer" spring loaded plunger system.
BTW: BP frame is only used to refer to the base pin latch style on modern reproduction guns. Either frame is perfectly the same strength for use with modern loads.

If you still want one, Cimarron Firearms offers Uberti SAA's in aged finish in either frame style.
http://www.cimarron-firearms.com/

rc
 
i like the spring loaded pin.. and youre right, i was wrong, UV wont remove blueing, but it will remove the swirls of case hardened steel... in which ways do you think the front mounted base pin latch is better? and how are they worse?
 
The old screw type BP cylinder pin retainer is very positive, and there is no way a base pin will pull out under recoil as long as the screw is kept tight.

I have owned and own several examples of both types, and the only time it becomes an issue is when you clean the gun, you need a screw-driver to take the base pin out to remove the cylinder.

But if you shoot SAA's, you better keep a screw-driver on your person at all times anyway. Loose screws all over the gun are the norm when shooting them much

Push button latches are infamous for developing weak springs eventually, coming unscrewed and getting lost, or wearing the hole out oval over time.
Any of the three will allow the base pin to squirt out under recoil.

The replica guns now come with an oversize base-pin screw with a knurled thumbscrew head for convenience.

They also generally come with a standard flush fitting screw with a screw slot that requires a screw-driver if you value traditional appearance over easy cleaning removal without tools.

rc
 
cxzvbob, you were right.. vinegar is what they use, they soak it in white vinegar and the blueing and case hardening effect both wear off, i found a tutorial for it
 
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