Anybody ever detail stripped a Ruger P90?

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And if you have can you walk me through it?

I just bought a Wolf 16lb recoil spring and it came with a firing pin spring. I was looking at the schematics for detail stripping the frame, but wanted to know if there's anything I need to know before I start, other than not to let any small springs and parts go flying across my dining room table?

It looks to me from the schematics that you loosen rear sight set screw, remove rear sight, remove plunger and spring from firing pin block, remove firing pin block, remove safety levers, detent plunger and plunger spring (that's where it seems to get hairy :confused:) and then back out the firing pin and firing pin spring.

Am I even close to being on track here?

Any special tools I need?

On a side note, do I even have to replace the firing pin spring when replacing the recoil spring?
 
I have some Ruger autos and HAD the P-90 but sold it to a friend a few years ago so I'm working on memory here....

Sounds like you have a good knowledge of the path to disassembly. I can't think of any real 'gotchas' to warn you about....other than to not launch the firing pin when you release the safety. It shouldn't hurt too bad even if you launch it as it isn't in there under all that much spring pressure.

Which brings up the Wolff Extra Power firing pin spring. They include it with all their Heavy recoil springs to help prevent AD's with the faster slide closing velocity caused by the upgraded recoil spring.

I had the stock spring in my P-90 and the firing pin would 'wipe the primer' by not retracting enough during ejection when using hot ammo. The extra power springs would help that issue for sure.

But, if the firing pin safety is working properly, the drop safety should be OK with either spring. You might try the Extra Power and if the pistol runs fine, I'd leave it in as a little extra doesn't hurt anything as long as the gun runs.

The P-90 is a TANK of a handgun. Upping the springs can only make it happier with heavy loads, but keep in mind that powder puff target stuff may not have enough power to fully cycle the stiff springs. Good luck and if you get yourself into a bind, make sure to have a digital camera handy and take some pics. We'll get you back up and running no problems.
 
I just bought a Wolf 16lb recoil spring and it came with a firing pin spring. I was looking at the schematics for detail stripping the frame, but wanted to know if there's anything I need to know before I start, other than not to let any small springs and parts go flying across my dining room table?

I've done this, but it's been a while. No need to mess with the rear sight.

The slide, at least the parts you need to get off to replace the firing pin spring (which arguably doesn't need to be replaced anyway) is easy.

Remove the extracter by (looking from the rear) pushing it to the right, then sliding it forward. Gently, with a small screwdriver. When the extractor is out, the two safety levers can be separated and removed from the slide. I forget exactly how, one lever gets turned one direction, the other the opposite. If you look at the parts diagram, you'll see how they go together.

Once the safety is removed, I think the firing pin with it's spring comes right out.

16lb -- isn't that kind of stout for the P90? I bumped up one step from the stock strength, to resolve a feeding problem I was having.
 
but keep in mind that powder puff target stuff may not have enough power to fully cycle the stiff springs.

I found that 400 Corbon loaded with 6.6 grn of unique ( 2 tenths of a grain shy of never exceed) has a little trouble functioning with a Wolff 16 lbs spring in my P90. But the good news is I haven't lost a single piece of brass yet.
 
Got it done!

Thanks to all. Lee n. field, your directions were spot on.

I even treated my P89 to a detail strip and clean. Boy it was dirty in there!
 
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