AR battle sight zero
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Zerodefect
member
50 yard zero on my Colt 6920 carbine.
As long as your centered left to right and know your holds you'll be fine for CQB. A 50 yard zero is pretty flat shooting, I think it's zero again at 250y. You'll have to check ballistics and set some targets up to be sure.
For example my Eotech XPS2-0 is mounted really high over the barrel on my FN PS90. Have to remember that it hits 4 inches low at CQB ranges.
As long as your centered left to right and know your holds you'll be fine for CQB. A 50 yard zero is pretty flat shooting, I think it's zero again at 250y. You'll have to check ballistics and set some targets up to be sure.
For example my Eotech XPS2-0 is mounted really high over the barrel on my FN PS90. Have to remember that it hits 4 inches low at CQB ranges.
I know guys who hunt with 100 yard zeros and everything way out dar! If you are talking about HD and ranges (25' max).... IMO Zero in at whatever distance you want. The difference in azimuth will be close to the height of your scope above the rifle's bore or less if using irons. Plenty close enough for anyone inside your bungalow. 25 = 300.... 50 = 200
Sergeant Sabre
Member
I'm providing you with a link below. Before you click on it make some coffee, get a snack, or pour a drink. You'll be here for a while.
Now that you have one of the above, click the below link and read those threads linked under topic #6, "What Range to I zero my rifle for? How do I zero? "
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/492084_AR15_Discussions__FAQ.html
Now that you have one of the above, click the below link and read those threads linked under topic #6, "What Range to I zero my rifle for? How do I zero? "
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/492084_AR15_Discussions__FAQ.html
henschman
Member
You guys do know that if you zero at 25/300m with the small aperture that you also have a 50/200m zero when you flip to your large aperture, right?
Coincidentally, the large aperture is LARGER, which makes it quicker to use at those shorter ranges, where precision isn't as important but speed is.
The nice thing about a 200 or 300m zero is that it is good for hits out to a longer distance, and won't be too far off at the closer distances. It is designed for hits on man-sized targets at those distances. Some hunters use a 100 yard zero because they are interested in hitting a smaller than man-sized target (hitting several inches high sometimes doesn't cut it in hunting), and they are pretty sure they won't be taking a shot at a much further distance than 100 yards.
The problem with zeroing at that short of a distance is that it is basically at or near the apex of your round's trajectory, so you won't have "double zeros" like you do with a 25/300 or 50/200, and it is only good for point blank to a little past 100 yards. With a 100 yard zero you will be 4" low by 200, and it just drops from there.
However, with a 200m zero, you will only be 2" high at 100 yards, and with a 300m zero you will only be 4" high at 100. Either way, its not too shabby and is good for hits at a lot longer range.
But if you are sure you won't ever need to make hits at those longer ranges, then there is nothing wrong with going for a 100m zero.
If that's what you wanted to do, you could zero with the large aperture at 100, and then the small aperture would be a 200m zero, just in case you ever need to take a longer shot.
Coincidentally, the large aperture is LARGER, which makes it quicker to use at those shorter ranges, where precision isn't as important but speed is.
The nice thing about a 200 or 300m zero is that it is good for hits out to a longer distance, and won't be too far off at the closer distances. It is designed for hits on man-sized targets at those distances. Some hunters use a 100 yard zero because they are interested in hitting a smaller than man-sized target (hitting several inches high sometimes doesn't cut it in hunting), and they are pretty sure they won't be taking a shot at a much further distance than 100 yards.
The problem with zeroing at that short of a distance is that it is basically at or near the apex of your round's trajectory, so you won't have "double zeros" like you do with a 25/300 or 50/200, and it is only good for point blank to a little past 100 yards. With a 100 yard zero you will be 4" low by 200, and it just drops from there.
However, with a 200m zero, you will only be 2" high at 100 yards, and with a 300m zero you will only be 4" high at 100. Either way, its not too shabby and is good for hits at a lot longer range.
But if you are sure you won't ever need to make hits at those longer ranges, then there is nothing wrong with going for a 100m zero.
If that's what you wanted to do, you could zero with the large aperture at 100, and then the small aperture would be a 200m zero, just in case you ever need to take a longer shot.
Burt Blade
Member
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- Apr 29, 2004
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- 477
This web sight has a bunch of information on zeroing the M16/M4 rifle.
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/3-22-9/c02.htm
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/3-22-9/c02.htm
Shawn Dodson
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- Dec 28, 2002
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- 3,193
What ammo are you intending to use for home defense and what's its velocity when fired from your rifle.
The suggestions posted here all apply to milspec 5.56 ammo, whereas .223 ammo is lower pressure and thus lower velocity.
I suggest chronographing velocity of your rifle/ammo combo and using Hornady's Ballistics Calculator to determine the sight-in dope you actually require.
The suggestions posted here all apply to milspec 5.56 ammo, whereas .223 ammo is lower pressure and thus lower velocity.
I suggest chronographing velocity of your rifle/ammo combo and using Hornady's Ballistics Calculator to determine the sight-in dope you actually require.
Strykervet
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- Nov 16, 2010
- Messages
- 1,610
We always zeroed at 25m for a 300m zero. They make a target for it. When I became an SDM and later an instructor, and got to spend a great deal of time on 600m KD ranges, I zeroed my irons at 100m and collected data all the way back to 600m.
When you have enough data, you can analyze it, then make a chart from 100m to 600m in 100m increments, and next to that the number of clicks from zero at 100m (but next to 100m, write the number of clicks from the bottom, say b and then the number so you'll recall it is from bottom --otherwise, zero). Next to that, the windage clicks from the same. You can also put your BSZ on here, number clicks from bottom. Use that anytime your zero changes, like taking the handle off and putting it back on --that'll ruin your data and you'll have to do it all over again, so that will at least get you in the ballpark quick. Make the chart small and laminate this to the stock right in front of the charging handle.
Lots of competitive shooters and snipers alike do this. Competitive shooters will use the A2 upper and NM sights in NM shooting, and thus have better, more precise data collected over time that doesn't change easily. Snipers usually put their scope data on there, clicks on the scope, along with other stuff. Collecting the data and adjusting the sights properly is the only way to shoot accurately at distance with the AR, and when I mean accurate here I mean all the holes together where you want them and they got there through a perfect sight picture, not Kentucky windage... The numbers on the drum, those are useless. Some people will also make their own numbers on a strip, and then laminate this to the drum and use that instead of laminating a little card to the stock. Don't know how well it holds up without glue though, and even then? I've also seen paint on the drum, but the laminated card on the stock just works best for changing zeroes for me.
This is the best way I know to use those iron sights on the AR. You can get just a BSZ, or collect as much data as you can and make the chart and be dead on. For fighting, you leave it on 100m or 300m, your choice, and adjust in your head, Kentucky windage, whatever. Ultimately there are a few ways of doing it and you pick what works best for you...
When you have enough data, you can analyze it, then make a chart from 100m to 600m in 100m increments, and next to that the number of clicks from zero at 100m (but next to 100m, write the number of clicks from the bottom, say b and then the number so you'll recall it is from bottom --otherwise, zero). Next to that, the windage clicks from the same. You can also put your BSZ on here, number clicks from bottom. Use that anytime your zero changes, like taking the handle off and putting it back on --that'll ruin your data and you'll have to do it all over again, so that will at least get you in the ballpark quick. Make the chart small and laminate this to the stock right in front of the charging handle.
Lots of competitive shooters and snipers alike do this. Competitive shooters will use the A2 upper and NM sights in NM shooting, and thus have better, more precise data collected over time that doesn't change easily. Snipers usually put their scope data on there, clicks on the scope, along with other stuff. Collecting the data and adjusting the sights properly is the only way to shoot accurately at distance with the AR, and when I mean accurate here I mean all the holes together where you want them and they got there through a perfect sight picture, not Kentucky windage... The numbers on the drum, those are useless. Some people will also make their own numbers on a strip, and then laminate this to the drum and use that instead of laminating a little card to the stock. Don't know how well it holds up without glue though, and even then? I've also seen paint on the drum, but the laminated card on the stock just works best for changing zeroes for me.
This is the best way I know to use those iron sights on the AR. You can get just a BSZ, or collect as much data as you can and make the chart and be dead on. For fighting, you leave it on 100m or 300m, your choice, and adjust in your head, Kentucky windage, whatever. Ultimately there are a few ways of doing it and you pick what works best for you...
TexasPatriot.308
Member
it's been almost 40 years since I was in the southeast asia war games, back then our battle sight zero was 25 meters for M16s and M14s.
I suggest everyone read AR15zeroing.com. It makes a lot of sense and it accomadates CQB and distance.
I only use 55gr for most of my shooting, so the 50/200 is perfect. I get to use my 55gr ballistics chart cards for all of my shooting. I use it for plinking, target, hunting, SRS matches and 3 gun. It is easy and applicable.
I only use 55gr for most of my shooting, so the 50/200 is perfect. I get to use my 55gr ballistics chart cards for all of my shooting. I use it for plinking, target, hunting, SRS matches and 3 gun. It is easy and applicable.
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