AR buffer tube grease, what to use?

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I won't go so far as to say I like the "sproing", but enough trigger time and you'll hear when the bolt locks back on empty. It sounds different. I'm not sure I'd want it eliminated.
 
Even with a greased buffer spring, I can still hear the difference between when the bolt chambers another round or locks back on an empty magazine.

I do not care for the "sproing" in my ear but that is mostly a personal thing. The spring sliding in the buffer tube is a sliding contact so a little lubrication can be beneficial to the life of the tube.

I use a synthetic tractor/automotive grease. Synthetic greases do not seam to dry up and cake over time if exposed to air as much as petroleum based greases.
 
Sorry for dredging up this old thread, but I am in the process of my first AR build, so I consulted MidwayUSA. Larry Potterfield--in his lower assembly build video--demonstrates using liberal "lithium grease" on the buffer spring and buffer. He's kind of the Dean of Gunsmithing, so his advice is important. What are your thoughts?


He is the dean of selling stuff!
 
The oil I put on my BCG eventually works its way back to the buffer spring, which I rarely if ever take out of my gun. The best way to get rid of the sprong is to switch over to a flat wire spring.
 
Like most people, I oil my AR rather than grease it. I do however grease my M1 and K31 Swiss and I use Mobil 1 Synthetic. One eight dollar tube is enough to grease both for an entire lifetime.
 
I think that JP rifles (without the silent capture add on) are greased from the factory. The one I saw had white grease all over the buffer spring. It did reduce the "sproing" sound, but I'm not so sure I'd go that route for typical users. After depressing the buffer retaining pin, it looked like a mess of grease all over the buffer and spring. IMHO, I would much rather put a light coat of oil on the buffer spring and live with the "sproing" sound.
 
There is a rather large surface area of contact between a reciprocating buffer spring and the tube that captures it. Two tricks that work very well for me:

1. A lighter-weight synthetic lube such as Lucas Extreme Duty or Frog Lube used on the outer surface of the coils;

2. A plastic insert for the back of the buffer spring called the 'Twang Buster' from Doublestar that prevents direct contact between the spring and bottom of the tube.

Not only is the 'twang' significantly reduced with this combo but the reduced friction, especially at the point where the bolt goes into battery, is remarkable.
 
I'm guilty of having buffer springs in the "very damp with oil" mode.
And have yet to purposely apply any back there.
 
Tetra

Onmilo is on to something: I use Tetra Grease & lube on things like the buffer tube that don't need to be wet or gooey. Wipe it on, buff it well, and voila! No goo needed, not sand/grit attraction. Tetra is an underrated lube, I think, that I use for a lot of things, like M1 rifle/carbine/M14 bolts & op rods/slides. 1911s, auto pistols & rifles... :cool:
 
The only time i hear the sprong (my A2) is occasionally shooting from the bench. But, I only shoot from the bench when zeroing. I never hear is running drills with my A2, and never hear it in my carbines. I have never oiled the buffer spring in any of my rifles.
 
Always thought if it's metal and it moves it should occasionally get some lube.
All Temp Tactical Lube. Best AR lube I have ever used.
Light coating on my fingers. It somehow does not attract dirt. Don't know how they manage that but I guess that's part of what makes it so good.
 
if you haven't figured it out by now, it's not a big deal.

if you just use your AR15 for plinking at the range, do anything you like, including filling it with grease.

if you use your AR15 in the field and need it to be reliable, then stick to a light coat of oil on the spring or nothing. Do not use grease.
 
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