AR Builds -- What Parts Did You Choose and Why??

Hey guys. I want to get a silent buffer spring for my dad's AR... he hates the twang, I don’t mind it.

Anyway, I've never looked into them, but I've heard about the JP silent buffer before. Just looked it up, and it's 150 freakin' dollars! Google showed similar off-brand devices for sale for about half that. Does anyone know if they work well, or is it better to stick with JP?
 
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Hey guys. I want to get a silent buffer spring for my dad's AR... he hates the twang, I don’t mind it.

Anyway, I've never looked into them, but I've heard about the JP silent buffer before. Just looked it up, and it's 150 freakin' dollars! Google showed similar off-brand devices for sale for about half that. Does anyone know if they work well, or is it better to stick with JP?
I have 4 jp scs and it adds weight. There are several different silent type setups. I haven't tried any others.
 
Currently building an AR completely from scratch. PSA stripped lower, CMMG lower parts kit, some Rise parts too (anti walk pins, ambi selector lever), Del Ton stripped upper, Balistic Advantage Premium SS bull barrel, 24" long, no muzzle break nor threaded for one (going to be my long range target rifle) Magpul PRS lite stock, Sperlative adjustable gas block, Wilson Combat rifle length gas tube, Midwest Industries 15" MLock light weight handguard. Magpul bipod, so other smaller odds and ends.

The barrel isn't dimpled, so I ordered a jig to do it. First time doing dimples for me, but its not that hard. Just dealing with the stainless is a bit of a PITA...but I've done simular stuff before at work.

I'll be putting it all together this weekend.
 
Currently building an AR completely from scratch. PSA stripped lower, CMMG lower parts kit, some Rise parts too (anti walk pins, ambi selector lever), Del Ton stripped upper, Balistic Advantage Premium SS bull barrel, 24" long, no muzzle break nor threaded for one (going to be my long range target rifle) Magpul PRS lite stock, Sperlative adjustable gas block, Wilson Combat rifle length gas tube, Midwest Industries 15" MLock light weight handguard. Magpul bipod, so other smaller odds and ends.

The barrel isn't dimpled, so I ordered a jig to do it. First time doing dimples for me, but its not that hard. Just dealing with the stainless is a bit of a PITA...but I've done simular stuff before at work.

I'll be putting it all together this weekend.
Give this a try for gb alignment. Screenshot_20220311-110323_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
The pic above is supposedly for 750 size, but seems flexible enough for 625 and should work fine as long as you align the gas port on the block with the genie. I've ordered 2 and was supposed to be here today, but held up in KC (Monday now expected arrival).
 
Black Rifle Arms Low Profile Regulated upper in 6.5 Grendel battle-worn Burnt Bronze replaces the upper on my DDM4V7 lightweight. Mid-Length Piston with an M4 profile 16" bbl. I'm adding a custom engraved charging handle in burnt bronze. The 5.56 DD upper is wearing a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8x24 on a Warne QD skeleton mount. The BRA upper will wear a Vortex Razor 1-10x24 Gen III on a Warne QD skeleton mount. Flip up steel BUIS, Inforce WMLx Gen2 weapon lights and a Magpul QD sling.

The 5.56 upper will remain as a shorter range configuration while the 6.5G upper is intended primarily for hunting.

I wanted a piston upper for ease of maintenance and I went with quality (BRA) because I wanted reliability and accuracy. I went mid-length and a 16" M4 profile no muzzle device to save a few oz over the normally longer 6.5G heavy barrels that many use.

Since the 5.56 upper is a backup it gets the Strike Eagle as a backup LPVO. The primary upper is the BRA 6.5G and that gets the Vortex Razor LPVO 1-10x24 to give me better distance options. Both scopes are similar although the Strike Eagle lacks locking turrets and has more of a run-and-gun reticle.

I went with the Warne Skeleton QD mounts to save some weight and to easily switch scopes if they become an issue. I'm also moving my Sightmark Wraith over from my predator / hog rifle to serve as a night vision option (but it really weighs too much so that will be just for still hunting).

I have recently broken a Streamlight which I normally use for weapon lights and the Inforce is more streamlined in the area where I broke the Streamlight. Also less expensive and I have no real need for a laser. The WMLx Gen2 is more rugged than its predecessor and has some updated features that are nice.

And, of course, the rifle's name is 'Vera' ...

https://www.blackriflearms.com/LOW-PROFILE-REGULATED-PISTON-UPPERS-_c_91.html



 
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Brownells. Listed as gas block genie. There really is no reason to demple for gas block. If you have a hbar you might not find 1 in gas journal size. Most are for 750 size.
Its .936. No doubt about it...cause I ordered it that way...lol. It must be dimpled as well, for a couple reasons. Positive lock to the barrel, and clearance with very little room to spare inside the handguard
 
I just assembled my first two. I put together a blen psa freedom rifle 16”carbine kit on a poverty pony lower. I need to get a rear sight and mount the trs-25 on it. I was trying to put together as cheap a rifle as I could just to have one. I also assembled a 10.5” m4 pistol. Sba 3 brace magpul moe grip. Strike industries Bcg and charge handle. With a carry handle sight. I wanted to have a pistol upper so I could build both rifles as a pistol first. Plus it’s a potent if deafening compact home defense tool. Now I’m going to start buying loose parts to upgrade them both and try to build a third all the way up. No psa kit for number three. I also need to pile up some pmags. Both builds came out much cheaper than I could find a complete rifle local to me.
 
Hey guys. I want to get a silent buffer spring for my dad's AR... he hates the twang, I don’t mind it.

Anyway, I've never looked into them, but I've heard about the JP silent buffer before. Just looked it up, and it's 150 freakin' dollars! Google showed similar off-brand devices for sale for about half that. Does anyone know if they work well, or is it better to stick with JP?

https://armaspec.com/stealthtm-recoil-spring-srstm-ar15.html $85

I bought two of them on sale last summer.

One is a carbine buffer weight and the other one is a H2 buffer weight.

I've only tried out the H2 version in a KE-15 monolithic polymer lower with a M4 style upper and a Brownells lightweight BCG.

It does do away with the spring noise and has functioned perfectly so far.

Recoil does seem to be more noticeable than with a standard spring and buffer though.

IMG_20220312_014536992.jpg
 
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Got her finished. Went together well enough. The dimple jig from SLR rocked! Make it very easy to drill the dimples.

16471195252736166364033296101822.jpg 16471195708823666175208476286640.jpg

It functions well. I cleaned the barrel after each shot for the first 5, but it wasn't cycling. After the 5th...I started to get pissy with it. The @#%^&* adjustable gas block is a damnable thing. It works on one setting only. 1 click in...no chamber, 1 click out...no extraction. On the right click setting...runs like a Swiss watch.

Ugg...but anyway, I ran a mag through it, and the barrel still came out clean after 3 patches...so Balistic Advantage does seems to do a nice job with the final lapping.

6 inch of fresh snow prevents me from trying it out at range...Ill follow up if we ever get Spring here in PA...which should be in about July or so...hate this state!
 
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Give this a try for gb alignment.View attachment 1065222

I've always taken a pencil and ruler and just sketched a line past the block so I can tell if the line is centered or not under the block.
I hear spaghetti works as well!!

Anyone else just go by eye/pencil marking?
I use clamp on devices and never have any issue with them at all not being straight.
Long as I take my time drawing that line.
 
Do people have any recommendations for a low profile/short muzzle devices?
Specifically a. "Micro" .300 Blackout?

I bought an MI Flash hider for the 5" .300 Blackout upper I am building.
Rethinking a linear comp considering the db reductions reported. Not a lot, but something and especially considering how short I am going. I hear about 4-8 depending on circumstances.
Not likely to have a supressor anytime soon, Form 4 will be the only way going forward which is fine. Maybe when my finances are better off, that is just a luxury.

I didn't grab a linear comp because I didn't know if people had experience with them indoors vs outdoor?
I have read/heard the db reduction is only useful outdoors, and indoors/tight areas regardless of how the sound is directed it will come back to you...thus why bother and rather just focus on the flash?

Also have heard despite that, from a shooting perspective it works for people behind/ next to you. I have used Krinkov style 4 piece before on an 8.5" 5.56 and I only used ear plugs. Did notice it seemed different but that was awhile back.

Also, didn't like the idea of something 2" long hanging off the build I am trying to keep compact and most of those linear comps are long compared to just a flash hider.
If anyone knows a VERY small Linear Comp, or has experience indoors/tight spaces I'd love to hear what your thoughts are.

I'm trying to keep at as short as possible, so I still think the Flashhider was the right choice. Open to new ideas, I'm building another 10.5" .300 so I'll be able to experiment.
 
This has been finished for some time. Just haven’t been around. Here’s my last one completed. I spec’d this one so carefully. Doesn’t have hardly a single piece of 6061 on it. All the Aluminum is 7075-t6.. including the handguard, rear plate & castle nut. Also not using the same “kit” style LPK which are ALL THE SAME! I chose every single part, made from Billet Aluminum or Steel. Every piece was separate. I love this thing! It is so I quiet, built like tank, no rattles, or slop anywhere. I have switched back to a standard MOE grip though. I just prefer them or the MIAD to the K2. The K2 I modified to fit my bench rifle Chassis.

The scope is just for groups, distance. It’ll wear a Primary Arms SLX-25 sight at some point.
8-A9-EC960-DDD1-4-C09-88-C0-5-A6831-DE95-FB.jpg

68-C2-A382-5074-446-D-B0-F7-98189-AC9883-C.jpg
 
Hey guys. I want to get a silent buffer spring for my dad's AR... he hates the twang, I don’t mind it.

Anyway, I've never looked into them, but I've heard about the JP silent buffer before. Just looked it up, and it's 150 freakin' dollars! Google showed similar off-brand devices for sale for about half that. Does anyone know if they work well, or is it better to stick with JP?


I’m using the Armaspec Sound Mitigation buffer in H2 comparable weight. Think it cost $42 when I got it and works great! Coupled with my adjustable Gad Block, my AR functions flawless! And no more “SPROYYYYNG!!”

589-D8-C66-2697-4-C70-8882-E3-E0-F4-A3-CFE2.jpg
 
Do people have any recommendations for a low profile/short muzzle devices?
Specifically a. "Micro" .300 Blackout?

I bought an MI Flash hider for the 5" .300 Blackout upper I am building.
Rethinking a linear comp considering the db reductions reported. Not a lot, but something and especially considering how short I am going. I hear about 4-8 depending on circumstances.
Not likely to have a supressor anytime soon, Form 4 will be the only way going forward which is fine. Maybe when my finances are better off, that is just a luxury.

I didn't grab a linear comp because I didn't know if people had experience with them indoors vs outdoor?
I have read/heard the db reduction is only useful outdoors, and indoors/tight areas regardless of how the sound is directed it will come back to you...thus why bother and rather just focus on the flash?

Also have heard despite that, from a shooting perspective it works for people behind/ next to you. I have used Krinkov style 4 piece before on an 8.5" 5.56 and I only used ear plugs. Did notice it seemed different but that was awhile back.

Also, didn't like the idea of something 2" long hanging off the build I am trying to keep compact and most of those linear comps are long compared to just a flash hider.
If anyone knows a VERY small Linear Comp, or has experience indoors/tight spaces I'd love to hear what your thoughts are.

I'm trying to keep at as short as possible, so I still think the Flashhider was the right choice. Open to new ideas, I'm building another 10.5" .300 so I'll be able to experiment.


I use a BRT Covert Comp on mine, it works as advertised:

https://blackrivertactical.com/WP/BRT-Covert-Comp-7-62-p7674675

Same basic size as an A2, mine's on a 9.5":

m6ui4jWl.jpg



They also make a mini, that's even shorter:

https://blackrivertactical.com/WP/BRT-Covert-Comp-MINI-7-62-p83557578

Just be sure to extend the muzzle past barricades etc. the bounce-back from the muzzle blast is impressive.
 
I use a BRT Covert Comp on mine, it works as advertised:


They also make a mini, that's even shorter:

https://blackrivertactical.com/WP/BRT-Covert-Comp-MINI-7-62-p83557578

Just be sure to extend the muzzle past barricades etc. the bounce-back from the muzzle blast is impressive.

THANK YOU!!! It appears the Mini is out of stock, I will search other vendors online and find one. Thank you SO much, I really appreciate your input an reply. They look affordable for what it's worth. I can swap my MI flashhider over to my 10" that is being put together as a hunting rig.
 
I'm thinking about a wilson combat super sniper 20" .308 barrel for my AR10. Its a DPMS pattern receiver, Wilson doesn't mention anything on their website. Anyone know if they are DPMS barrels? I have contacted them too just curious if anyone knows.
 
Got it put together with an Odin barrel. I only had time before work to test fire 2 rounds. I found the chamber, unlike my BA, Stag, PSA barrels, which are looser than a French Prostitute on a Monday morning, to be very very tight. I tried to chamber a few different factory and reloads. Some chambered, some did not. 62g Lake city chambered (factory) and only my Fresh PPU handloads chamber...anything full length resized does not.

I'll give a range report as soon as I get to to hit the range with it.
 
ARPistol.jpg

Put this pistol together today. Aero lower, Bear Creek upper, cerakoted in Zombie Green.
 
I am looking to build a 20" SPR rifle that is also as LIGHT as possible.
Thinking the Faxon Gunner 20" pencil barrel might be perfect.
Anyone have experience with one?
Looking to buy the lightest/most accurate barrel I can for an AR15.
I want 20" and am willing to sacrifice SOME accuracy at the cost of more weight savings.


Also, the barrel I am looking at only lines up with an A1 upper/fixed carry handle.
It has the .625 gasblock/original height already installed.
Are there rear backup sights that will match this/A1 height?
Could/should I chop the FSB like the "La Franc" sight and run a flattop?

I am concerned the mounted scope on a carry handle will be too high. I have an A1 upper w FWD assist/dust cover only.

Anyone use a fixed carry handle AR15 vs a flattop for long range precision shooting?

I'd ultimately like to keep irons and have a LPVO on the rifle.
Looking at the KE-Arms lowers/GWACS style for weight savings as well.
 
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