AR pistol, and 1911 problems

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Hey guys.

My last 2 guns were a 10" 5.56 AR pistol build, and a Tisas 1911a1. Took them both to the range today and had issues with both.

To stay let me say, this it's my second AR build, but my first pistol build. It's an Anderson lower with Anderson LPK, SBA3, 3oz carbine buffer, Bear Creek Arsenal upper with a 10" barrel, with s carbine gas system. BCG and CH both Bear Creek Arsenal as well. The gun cycles fine, but won't always lock back on an empty mag. It did sometimes though. I was shooting federal brass 55gr 223, and some steel cased Tula ammo. It mostly locks back with the Tula ammo, except one time, and about half the time with the federal ammo.

So it seems that my AR pistol is obviously just a tad under gassed. I'm not going to take the upper apart and bore out the gas hole. Would a lighter buffer work? Or how else could I fix this?

My other issue is that my 1911a1 was a jam-o-matic. It was the first time I had shot it, it's brand new. I stripped it, removed the factory oils and lubed it up myself before going out to shoot (a few days prior). Most of the mags would cause the slide stop to catch the slide back, even though there were more rounds in the mag. There were extraction and feeding issues as well. Do 1911s need to be broken in? Or do I really need to fork out the cash for the Wilson Combat mags? The mag the gun came with, worked flawlessly (metgar), I also have some KCI mags, a Ruger mag, some "usgi" mags. Etc. I was shooting 230gr ball ammo, freedom munitions remanufactured ammo. (I've never had any issues with their ammo in the past)
 
... Tisas 1911a1.

My other issue is that my 1911a1 was a jam-o-matic.

Most of the mags would cause the slide stop to catch the slide back, even though there were more rounds in the mag.
Well, you bought probably the least expensive 1911 on the market, so function is often a roll of the dice.

With premature slide lock, the first thing I do is shoot left handed to make sure it isn't me causing the slide stop to lock back.
 
I stripped it, removed the factory oils and lubed it up myself before going out to shoot (a few days prior).
Probably not your issue, but in this era of Glock's, most folks new to 1911's significantly under-lube their 1911's.

There are a bunch of ways to lube a 1911, but if you haven't seen it done, here are a few pretty good lube video's.

Dave Anderson





Wilson Combat





Hickok45

 
It was the first time I had shot it, it's brand new

Might or might not improve in a couple 100 rounds.
Some guns just need so ammo ran thru them to loosen up.
I would run some more ammo thru it and see if it gets happy before buying anything else.

I like to use SLF0 grease on the frame rails oil some other places, be generous with the lube.
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?TargetLocation=/_/N-0+4294962187?Np=2&Nr=AND%28p_visible%3A1%2Ccustomertypeid%3A1%29&Nrpp=48&Ntpc=1&Ntpr=1&Ntt=gun+grease&PersistedItemsPerPage=0&CustomerSelectedSort=True

$16 for a tub but it will last a long time.....
Much cheaper than the little bottles. I have and old hypo (no needle) that was from dog medicine.
I just fill it up from the tub.

I suppose you could use to much lube if you really tried but....



The above might be a little more lube than is really necessary:D
 
A guy here has had similar trouble with a Turkish Delight. Better magazines and some revision of the slide stop have got it working nearly as well as my 102 year old Colt.
 
It’s been my experience with 1911 pistols that many will need a good break in period of 200-300 rounds to get everything worn and seated well. Good magazines are also super important, as balky mags will make even the best guns choke.

I’ve had zero issues with my Ruger commander sized .45, since the first shot was fired but my loaded Springfield 5” was a bit cranky until a hundred or so went through it.

Even high dollar guns can be an issue when new. One of my co workers brought a very nice brand-new STI 2011 to the range to qualify with for duty. He had nothing but jams with his two thousand dollar gun and I failed it. He went home with an issued Glock 19 for duty and his STI for the safe.

Give it a hundred fifty to two hundred rounds or so and let us know if the gun is still balky.
.
Stay safe.
 
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The 1911 - As others have said, use good magazines. Stick with the Mecgar since they work for you. I always shoot at least 100 rounds of new factory ammo in my guns before using any reloads or remanufactured ammo. I have found that most guns of any type will do better after a couple hundred rounds to break in.

The AR pistol - First check to make sure the gas block and gas tube are aligned correcting and also check to make sure the gas key on bolt is straight, tight and staked correctly. Most AR barrels are usually over-gassed. I always recommend working the bolt by hand at least 100 times before ever putting any rounds through the gun. I personally will use only 5.56 M193/M855 or equivalent for break in on all AR's. Don't be afraid to lube the crap out of the BCG, they like to run wet.
 
Everybody is ignoring cleaning the mags, themselves. Drop the floorplate, pull the spring and follower, and wipe them down with light oil. clean the debris and powder out of the mag body, and lightly oil. Crappy mag springs can also bite you in the butt. Wolff sells good replacements, for most brands.
 
  • Premature slide lock
    Most of the mags would cause the slide stop to catch the slide back, even though there were more rounds in the mag.

  • Extraction problem
    There were extraction and feeding issues as well.

  • Feeding problem

  • Magazines
    Or do I really need to fork out the cash for the Wilson Combat mags?
The simplest thing to do is call the manufacturer, describe the problems, and ask if they'll take the pistol back and fix it under warranty.

Do 1911s need to be broken in?
Correctly manufactured and fitted 1911s do not need to be broken in. They will run right out of the box.

If you want to fix it yourself, take a deep breath and be prepared to answer lots of questions and post lots of pictures. Remote diagnosis of functioning problems is often difficult and requires lots of patience of everyone involved.

JTQ and Jim Watson have given you good feed back.

Here are my initial two cents.

JTG addressed lubrication. 1911s love oil. You'll know when you've applied too much when you get splashed with oil every time you take a shot.

Like Jim said, be sure you're not accidentally bumping the slide stop up with your thumb. In addition to shooting left handed you can also shoot right handed only. If you're 100% sure you're not causing the premature slide lock, then examine the slide stop lug that engages the magazine follower for brass colored smears. Smears indicate contact between the lug and the bullets in the magazine. The fix is to lightly and minimally file the contact spot on the lug to eliminate the contact. If you remove too much steel from the lug, the slide will no longer automatically lock open after the last round in the magazine is fired. Do not put file to metal if you want the manufacturer to fix the pistol under warranty.

Most folks are very particular about which magazines they use. As I recall you like Mec-Gar magazines. Other folks will only use Metalform, Wilson, Tripp, or McCormick mags. My personal favorite is the Check-Mate 8 round hybrid feed lip extended mags.

The Extraction and Feeding problems will need a lot more detail from you and pictures of the actual malfunctions in order to offer an informed diagnosis.
 
Thanks for the issues guys. I really appreciate it.

I think I've got a solution to the AR pistol. I am much more familiar with ARs than 1911s.

I will buy a couple more mec-gar mags to see if that helps. I'm also gonna watch those vids. I know that 1911s do have somewhat of a reputation for being finicky. I'm just a little discouraged, I've never bought a gun that didn't run perfectly out of the box. But I guess there is a first for everything.

Thanks again guys!
 
"I know that 1911s do have somewhat of a reputation for being finicky."
Some of us enjoy a challenge. :) It is a learning experience trouble shooting 1911's, normally once you get them ironed out they work fine thereafter. My RIA's have worked right out of the box, which is amazing considering their low cost, as dinking around with a troublesome pistol has got to be stressfull in a production pistol shop. My DW's (On the other end of the range) mostly the same but even with much higher costs one did require some slight work, luck of the draw I suppose.
Spend time in a 1911 forum reading answers to questions like these. I have many pistols from many eras and different designers, and the 1911 is my favorite by far!
 
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