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Ar15 ejector roll pin

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by KYregular, Nov 29, 2019.

  1. KYregular

    KYregular Member

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    Guys, just completed a new build and want to check my headspace. First time ever removing an ejector roll pin. My question is, which side of the bolt should I drive it out of? In the pics attached you will see one side of the bolt has a bevel with the pin showing, kinda flush, and the other side (with numbers showing in pic) is rather flat and the pin is recessed about 1/16 of an inch. Don't know if it makes any difference, any input appreciated. BTW, using the Sinclair bolt vise. Toolcraft BCG. IMG_20191129_203917.jpg IMG_20191129_203934.jpg
     
  2. ponchh

    ponchh Member

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    No particular side to push it out of, it's the same diameter across the full length. Just push down on the ejector and the pin can be easily pushed out.
     
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  3. KYregular

    KYregular Member

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    Thanks, the vise will keep the ejector pushed in.
     
  4. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    I've never seen a roll pin used for the ejector. All of mine and every one I was ever issued had solid pins. Are you sure yours is a roll pin?
     
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  5. KYregular

    KYregular Member

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    The extractor has a solid pin, but the ejector has a roll pin.
     
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  6. Blue68f100

    Blue68f100 Member

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    If your using a bolt vise/tool to hold the bolt it only works 1 way. You don't have the option to flip it over.
     
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  7. entropy

    entropy Member

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    Issue rifles had roll pins for the ejector and a solid pin for the extractor because the ejector is not an operator serviceable part, whereas removing and cleaning the extractor and underneath is part of normal operator maintenance. Ejector maintenance is an Armorer function, or depot level maintenance.
     
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  8. KYregular

    KYregular Member

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    Screenshot_20191130-232623.png don't have it in hand yet, but looks like you can get at it from either side of bolt
     
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  9. #1buck

    #1buck Member

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    I always put the bolt in a padded vise and use an empty brass to depress the ejector for removal and installation.
     
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  10. Blue68f100

    Blue68f100 Member

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    Only goes one way so you have a pocket to catch the pin. I have the dual AR15/10 model.
     
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  11. AlexanderA
    • Contributing Member

    AlexanderA Member

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    GI headspace gauges are cut so as to clear the ejector / extractor, so you don't have to remove them. If you work on AR's a lot, it's worth getting the GI gauges.
     
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  12. boom boom
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    boom boom Contributing Member

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    For the OP--get the ejector bolt tool, it is cheap insurance. Two, replace the roll pin with a new one when reinstalling--cheap insurance in getting it out again or damaging the bolt during reinstallation. Third, use a proper sized roll pin punch for removal. I remove all of my ejectors and extractors for headspace checking because I do not always purchase the bolt and barrel from the same supplier on builds. Use some Kroil or other penetrating oil too for assistance in getting the roll pin moving out. Blue68f100 is correct above on the design of the ejector removal tool as it works from one side.

    Unless you have a military supplier for the headspace gages with cutouts for the ejector, the last time that I have checked, these have vanished from the consumer market but you might find one on ebay if you look long enough or on forum wts/wtb sections. It would be a piece of cake for a machinist to alter one though. I believe a guy named Bill Ricca used to sell them though.

    GI gauges
    Part Number 7799734
    NSN 5220-00-070-7814
    https://www.nsncenter.com/NSN/5220-00-070-7814

    Here is what Manson has to say about the subjects, https://mansonreamers.com/2016/09/01/ejectorextractor-relief-on-headspace-gauges/
     
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  13. KYregular

    KYregular Member

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    Thanks for the great advice. I plan on hitting it with a drop or two of aero Kroil, which is damn fine stuff. From the looks of that vise one thing you DON'T want to do is screw it in tight, which would put pressure on the other end of the ejector. I always have my headspace checked on builds, but good gunsmiths are going away sadly, so l might as well do my own. 1/16 Starrett punch should also do the trick.
     
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  14. carbine85

    carbine85 Member

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    If headspace is a concern get one of these. I've used mine once. I've never had a headspace problem with an AR in over 30 years.
     
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  15. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    This all sounds exceptionally difficult for something as simple as an AR ejector. I’m typically supportive for using the right tool for the job, but I rarely support spending for specialized tools for a menial task which can be confidently and correctly completed without the tools.

    Consider the bevel on the one side to be a guide for your roll pin punch, then guide for the pin upon reassembly. Push it all the way out from that side, then push it in from that side when replacing.

    A roll pin punch and a roll pin starter punch are a worthwhile investment. Even with an ejector compressor (somewhere) in my toolbox, I almost exclusively clamp the bolt in a padded vise and hold an empty case in the bolt face to remove ejector pins. Takes longer to rummage through my drawers for the compressor and set it up than it’s worth, and the tool cost doesn’t pay back - ever.
     
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  16. KYregular

    KYregular Member

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    That bevel side your talking about is where I was thinking too. Thanks
     
  17. AlexanderA
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    AlexanderA Member

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    That is probably where I got mine. Bill's been in declining health for the last few years and is shutting down his business.
     
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  18. KYregular

    KYregular Member

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    IMG_20191204_181142.jpg IMG_20191204_181828.jpg Thanks for all of the replies, everything went smooth as silk except the part where I dropped the extractor into a pile of 5.56 brass. The lil 300 is headspaced and ready to fire.
     
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  19. entropy

    entropy Member

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    Nice lookin' AR!
     
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  20. KYregular

    KYregular Member

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    Thanks bro
     
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