Are old Marlin 60 .22's = to new Marlin 60's?

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xmanpike

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I'm considering buying one. Afew friends have had them and they have all shot superb. I'm curious if the new builds are as good as the old. I noticed right off that my friends' older ones hold 17+1 I think and the new ones are 14+1. Any other differences?

Thanks

MC
 
Cheaper wood on the newer ones. I think my old one has a nice walnut stock, and I think the newer ones have birch
 
The older ones have metal at pretty much every conceivable place where the newer ones have plastic. The exception to that is the follower (and I think a metal follower would be a detriment in this case). I prefer the older models with the exception that I wish they had last shot bolt hold open. Those extra shots just do it for me. Both models are great, though.
 
There is just enough differences to make them different :)

I know that the tubes are different....I need a new mag tube follower....new ones $20...old one $60+
 
I dont know what the problem is but I have ALWAYS gotten double feeds in mine. Tried several different types of ammo to no avail. Very unreliable
 
I have a preference for the model 60s built in 85-86 that have the long magazine tube, bolt release lever on the bottom, and bolt hold open on the last shot.

I own three now and find them at pawn shops this time of year marked $120-110.00 but found that after negotiating awhile I can get them for around $60.00 out the door. (cash deal only)

Guns in pawn shops have never been cleaned usually, so a good cleaning is usually called for. Many feeding or jamming problems can be cured in these rifles by a thorough cleaning.
 
I bought mine new a year ago, it has been great and reliable with all the cheap ammo I can throw at it.....with the exception of learning the hard way to take my time during reassembly it has been flawless. That recoil spring is a bear to get back in properly if you aren't gentle with it....
 
Cheaper wood on the newer ones. I think my old one has a nice walnut stock, and I think the newer ones have birch
Click to expand...

Don't know if they've now reverted to birch, but mine that is ~5-6 years old is laminate. It's the stainless bull-barrel version. I actually FAR prefer it to my 10/22.
 
CJ 74,

I thought mine was a laminate as well, but a friend of mine who has much more experience working with wood says it's just straight birch. Mine is a very recent production from the Mayfield, KY plant. In any case, he swore up and down it was real wood because you could see the end-grain at the front of the stock.


Anyway I've had a couple of issues with the new one I had, but mostly just comes down to the ejector wire. The LSHO lever did break, not really sure why... But I sent it out for warranty and it seems good now.

The older ones are better built... Thicker metal used on the frame assembly, and the contours and wood work on the stock is nicer. I think the way you disassemble the new ones is a lot more convenient though. The new ones you just take two screws out, and then you can remove the action by pushing out the pin that secures it--the older ones, the action is secured by screws.

In any case both guns perform equally well. I like the LSHO feature, but having the extra shots is nice too. I don't really see the big deal about plastic parts, but the trigger guard is not really flimsy or anything from what I've seen--also maybe it's just from the wear on the older one, but I felt like there was less "slop" in the trigger pull of the new one.

They also updgraded the feed-throat design from the old ones. The older ones are two-pieces and can start coming apart after a few thousand rounds--from what I've heard. Mine is pre-owned from 1976 and has the two-piece feed throat, and I don't notice anything like that--no idea how many shots were taken through it before I got it though

The old ones are still a pretty sweet deal because you can get them so cheap, but they're strictly DIY affairs and you might have to spend money to replace parts. New ones you get a 5 year warranty. Otherwise I'd say they're basically the same in terms of how well they shoot.
 
The banged up, very old 60 which I bought misfeeds about every third round, and that was After the gun smith replaced a few parts.

What a shame:(, always wanted a good semi-auto .22.
 
Did you try ammunition and all that stuff? What parts did he say he replaced? Not to doubt the competency of your smith, but I haven't seen many cases where someone had a 60 that wouldn't shoot and could not get it working. With feed problems, it's probably the feed-throat, the follower, or the ejector wire. Hope you get it working...
 
I prefer my old model glenfield 60 to my buddys new model 60. mine holds 18+1 in the chamber. I believe it's more accurate to, but that could be me being a better shot i realize.
 
assembly posts/screws and trigger guards. Those are the parts to which I referred earlier. By the way, those who spoke above are correct, it's not THAT different. But to some it matters.
 
Marlin60Man: No sweat-I don't take any questions, critiques etc personally.
Life is too short.

The main area gun smith is very experienced and a spring was replaced, but I don't have a list of the other parts. Luckily, both the gun and repair costs total only about $120 or so.

I should consider giving a much newer Marlin 60 a chance.
The new Tech Sight on the SKS makes that rifle so much more fun (than before) that options for another .22 never occur to me.
 
My BIL had a M60 back in the late 60s. We shot hundreds of rounds. From time-to-time it would fail to feed. I bought a new M60 about 1 year or so back. The only failures I have had with it were firing either target ammo, or Remington Thunderbolts. I blame the Thunderbolts, because they failed to fire. Ejecting these failed rounds was some work. From the few times I had this new one up to the farm, the problems, IMO, were ammunition-related.

Geno
 
Comparing my older 1960s Marlin Glenfield 99G (precursor of the Model 60 and virtually identical to the early Model 60) and my son's newer 1990s Model 60 showed a lot of internal differences in the feedthroat/ejector. I also noticed that the newer action has clearances that allow fouling to be pushed out of the way as the bolt moves, whereas the earlier models would need cleaning much more frequently as there was no place for fouling to go.

I have not seen any Model 60s made since the move from Marlin factory CT to Remington.
 
CJ_74. The rifle I was looking at with the plastic was from 2002 if it was made the year it was purchased. I assume these don't sit too long on a shelf before walmart unloads them. It was my brother's, he was arrested, I sold all his rifles... so I can't look at it now. I just remember it from taking it apart to clean it/fix everything he screwed up on it last year before I sold it.
The 1971 Model sixty that sits one floor above me in my gun cabinet most assuredly has a metal trigger guard. I don't know what TYPE of metal... but it's not any type of metal commonly known as plastic.
I don't know why you're worked up about it... seems like a trivial thing to me.
 
Maybe I can shed some light on this. I own a Marlin Glenfield that is just like the Marlin 60 but has an even cheaper wood stock (with a squirrel pressed into the grip area) that has plastic screws that hold the action together (front and rear) I don't know what year of production it is, but in looks pretty new.

It's not really a big deal, there isn't much stress there and they work just fine.
 
http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/marlin60.htm
cj_74 Please see part number 1. I didn't figure qualifying terms taken directly from parts lists was necessary, but as you've pointed out, I'm clearly not as intelligent as you must be. No one is.
here's another link... I'm so glad midway chose to adopt my made up terminology for the products they keep in stock.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/64...n-60-60c-60ssk-60ss-60sb-795-795ss-7000-70pss
Look, this is dumb. I don't like it when people argue over crap like this, so if you think I'm wrong fine. I can be wrong. I'm not going to get into an argument over something this unnecessary. I started to not post those sites, because I don't want to escalate the silliness, but I don't want others to call up a store one day and ask for a "thingy" because they are confused over the name of this particular item. Also, you literally called for me to do so.
To the OP. Yes, they are pretty much equal. There are differences... or maybe not. I'm obviously too dumb to tell.
CZguy, thanks but if you saw plastic you must also be wrong. Sorry man.
 
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