Basic case sizing question

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tcoz

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I've been resizing Lapua brass for my 308 Savage and LC brass for my M1A using a full length die adjusted to only set the shoulder back the approprate two or five thousandths but I don't care for the constant working of the neck area. I have a Lee collet neck sizing die that I've read a lot of good things about but never used. It seems that using both the Lee neck die and a body die would accomplish everything I need without overworking the brass in the neck area. Am I looking at this right or am I missing something here?
 
Personally, I'd do anything I could to avoid having to resize brass twice everytime I load them.

Lapua brass is expensive, but I understand it lasts about forever. LC brass isn't that expensive, and I've found if I anneal the necks after the third loading, I get 10+ loadings in a Garand.

Try neck sizing only for the Savage and don't worry about the necks in the LC.
 
When I was shooting in 1,000 yard F Class Competition, I used a body die followed up by a bushing neck sizing die. You are essentially full length resizing in 2 separate and distinct operations.

Don
 
A bushing-type FL sizing die sans bushing is a body die, and I'll bet a look around a busier Buy/Sell forum, like AR15.com, would turn one up.
 
LC brass isn't that expensive, and I've found if I anneal the necks after the third loading, I get 10+ loadings in a Garand.

I'm on loading 6 with a batch of R-P brass in my M1; I anneal necks every 2x, and so far I've only lost 1:50 to a shoulder split.
 
A bushing-type FL sizing die sans bushing is a body die, and I'll bet a look around a busier Buy/Sell forum, like AR15.com, would turn one up.

One thing a bushing FL sizing die can't do is only size 2/3 of the neck, which is what we did. That is why we FL resized in 2 operations.

Don
 
using a full length die adjusted to only set the shoulder back the approprate two or five thousandths
Big difference between 2 & 5.

You want to full length size for your M1A. Don't move the shoulder back more than .003, anneal after every three firings, and work hardening will be a non issue. Heck, don't anneal at all and you'll get reasonable service from your brass.

Get a full length bushing die and it will do what you want, stop working the neck more than necessary.
 
One thing a bushing FL sizing die can't do is only size 2/3 of the neck,
It will size 2/3 from the mouth down or less.
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I don't anneal, 308, 30-06, 300WM... Rarely do I split brass... Still wondering if I should...
 
One thing a bushing FL sizing die can't do is only size 2/3 of the neck, which is what we did.

I'm not familiar with every bushing FL die out there, but all that I've seen can easily be adjusted to partially size the neck independent of the shoulder setback.
 
Big difference between 2 & 5.

You want to full length size for your M1A. Don't move the shoulder back more than .003, anneal after every three firings, and work hardening will be a non issue. Heck, don't anneal at all and you'll get reasonable service from your brass.

Get a full length bushing die and it will do what you want, stop working the neck more than necessary.

.002 for my Savage and .005 for my M1A.
My question really applies more to the Lapua brass for the bolt gun. The M1A is such a brass monster that there isnt much you can do to extend case life past 4-5 loadings anyway.
 
Not without sacrificing on the amount of shoulder bump.;)
Explain please? My experience tells me sizing/shoulder bump is controled the same as any other FL die. The only exception is, the neck is not sized all the way to the shoulder.
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The M1A is such a brass monster that there isnt much you can do to extend case life past 4-5 loadings anyway.

I hear a lot of people say this but I have LC brass on its 10th firing from my M1A that looks like it could go a lot more. No sign of case head separation, neck splitting or stretched primer pockets. I've never annealed this brass either. I will say that my accuracy load is a rather mild 38.5g of H4895 so that may have something to do with the brass longevity.

Now, Winchester brass is another story. 4-5 loadings is all I get before the primer pockets are too loose
 
Not without sacrificing on the amount of shoulder bump.;)

Don
I think your mixed up a little. The Bushing dies allow you to adj the body down to do shoulder bump while giving you control as to how much neck sizing you want. The Bushing dies control the amount of neck sizing by how far you adj it down. Now a std NS die does not give you this control.
 
Gotcha. The Redding bushing type (S Die) full length sizer is what I use with Lapua brass in .308 for my FN-SPR. Ammo shoots real well. I have the necks logged as .0141 to .0150 thickness. I am using an RCBS .338 Bushing, which measures slightly different than the Redding .338. Neck OD when seated logged as .338 to .3395. Light neck tension.
 
Gotcha. The Redding bushing type (S Die) full length sizer is what I use with Lapua brass in .308 for my FN-SPR. Ammo shoots real well. I have the necks logged as .0141 to .0150 thickness. I am using an RCBS .338 Bushing, which measures slightly different than the Redding .338. Neck OD when seated logged as .338 to .3395. Light neck tension.

Currently I f/l resize and bump the shoulder .002 every firing. I dont really know how much body sizing this provides. Since i already have a collet neck sizing die, I would probably buy a body die. Would it be advisable to do both processes every firing or only body size every 4th or 5th loading? I dont want to lose the benefit of the minimal shoulder setback by only body sizing intermittently.
 
Size the case body every time, bolt or auto rifle. The case volume changes between the 2 processes.

Autos should always be FL sized.

No problem there. Pretty much the first rule of semi-auto reloading...f/l resize after every firing.
It's for the bolt gun that I was/am unsure.
After years of pistol and autoloader reloading I just acquired my first bolt gun about six months ago so that's why I ask so many questions.
I've sold all of my ARs except one. I'm just a wood and steel military rifle and bolt gun guy now. I shot a friend's $500 AR15 last week and it felt like a toy in my hands (Mattel?). I've become one of "those guys" that some people on the various AR forums talk about...its kinda embarrassing.
 
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