Beloved S&W 27

[.38 Special]

If bad rifling causing issues I would not hesitate to take SW up on that lifetime warranty.

Customer satisfaction has usually been their hallmark, these are $850+ revolvers in a $400-600 plastic pistol market. If I pay 50% more I expect at least a similar if not better quality product.

I've been round and round with their customer service and was deeply unimpressed. Again, that was years ago, and hopefully was a temporary thing, but I have no plans to dive back in if I don't have to.

 

[ThomasT]

If you reload maybe try doing some fire lapping on the barrel with lead bullets. I don't see how it could hurt.

I only own one N frame gun now. A model 28-2 that belonged to my dad. His brother was a Ft Worth cop and bought it for him through the police supply house known a Sargent Sowell. My dad got the gun, threw away the box and paperwork (Aaarrrgh) loaded the gun and put it in his night stand. He never fired a single round through it. I have had it since 2003 when my dad passed away and I have never fired it. So other than a test fire by the factory its unshot.

If I can ever get one of my sons to go shoot with me I will let them have the honor of firing the first rounds from the gun. Or I may be weak and just shoot the damn thing myself.

 

[9mmepiphany]

All of my "N" frames are old enough to be pinned and recessed. I don't own anything newer. I'm currently looking for a M-27 3-1/2inch. Love those old "N" frames!

How would this be helpful to the OP asking about newer N-frames?

 

[bangswitch]

I absolutely Love my N-Frame Smith and wessons. Im the owner of 3 of them....29-2 8-3/8" nickel. 27-2 8-3/8" Blued. And a 28-2 6"

Now, I see they're still in production as the 27-9 or the "classic" series. I know they're not pinned or recessed cylinders anymore, but im assuming S&W didn't think that was any longer necessary to cut costs is what ive heard. Makes sense.

Now, that brings the question up...are the new ones worth it? Are they as smooth as the good old ones from the 1950s-1970s? My newest smile and wesson is a M586 circa 1986.
I'm assuming there are differences in the fit, finish and feel of the new ones...there just must be, theres no way they're the same. But, ive never held a new one, or shot a new one.... before I buy one I'd like to hear some THR member reviews. I'm looking at a new M27 that's looking to cost around 1k$ Thank you

My take on your post is, if you own three of S&W's finest revolvers, from a classic era that are hand fit, why would you want one of the modern ones? I'd take that grand that's burning a hole in your pocket and find another model from that same era. I'm sure the new ones are serviceable and have some positive features, but they're no longer "functional art", just an assembled mechanism, IMO.

All of my "N" frames are old enough to be pinned and recessed. I don't own anything newer. I'm currently looking for a M-27 3-1/2inch. Love those old "N" frames!

I own nothing S&W makes newer than 1981, and don't have any interest in anything newer than that. P&R has a certain cachet that doesn't exist in any S&W after that disappeared.

 

[.38 Special]

If you reload maybe try doing some fire lapping on the barrel with lead bullets. I don't see how it could hurt.

That's a good thought but I'd have to get all the lead out first, and I'm honestly not sure how to do that. None of the usual methods work, and I really do worry about using electrochemical means on a nickeled gun.

 

[Rodfac]

My Smith M69 & 629, both purchased new in the last 5 years have been trouble free. I'm predominantly, a cast bullet shooter with all of my revolvers and these two have had no leading issues to date. Both are regularly shot with both Lyman and RCBS versions of Keith's 429421 bullet, a ~250 gr LSWC...velocities from 900 to 1200 fps are easily attained with superb accuracy and all with a straight wheel weight alloy (bhn ~ 12). I also shoot a lot of gas checked designs with the same alloy and zero leading issues.

IIRC, Brian Pearce commented in his review of the M69, that he'd encountered leading issues but that's not been the case for me. Both guns are sub-2" groupers at 25 yds with most any sensible load too. That's my take on current Smith revolver quality/accuracy. YMMv Rod

 

[Homerboy]

There is nothing "Classic" about the modern S&W Classics. It is a marketing gimmick. Calling something a "Classic" doesn't make it so.

Dave

Perfectly stated.

 

[Homerboy]

That's a good thought but I'd have to get all the lead out first, and I'm honestly not sure how to do that. None of the usual methods work, and I really do worry about using electrochemical means on a nickeled gun.

Lewis Lead Remover. Adjust the grommet as tight as it can be to pull the screen through the barrel. Then a quick pass with a Hoppes soaked patch followed by a dry one.

 

[Palladan44]

I'd take that grand that's burning a hole in your pocket and find another model from that same era.

Good point.... I have not come across a quality one in a long time, and if I did, it's way way overpriced at a gun show. I don't trust buying "used" firearms, especially revolvers, on Gunbroker either...too risky taking a bath others are trying to hide.... oh, and the prices are very high......lastly, armslist has been off my radar for over a year now, I'm considering signing up for it...havnt made the move yet.
Considering a new classic just because I feel it would be a safer purchase if bought new online. You have good points here.

 

[mcb]

I love N-frames just not Model 27/28 old or new. (357 Mag N-frames should be 8-shooters) That said I would not be afraid to buy a new Model 27 from S&W assuming you get to do a careful inspection before putting money down. S&W still makes a great revolver but their QC as slipped enough that they do allow some lemons to escape. Careful inspect is required before putting money down on the counter for a new S&W but I have bought one new S&W a few years ago and been very happy it. That said all my N-frames have been bought used. I prefer to let someone else weed out the lemons and put the first few scratches on it for me.

 

[.38 Special]

Lewis Lead Remover. Adjust the grommet as tight as it can be to pull the screen through the barrel. Then a quick pass with a Hoppes soaked patch followed by a dry one.

Neither that not Chore Boy on a brush works. Each rifling groove contains four or five longitudinal grooves. They are large enough to trap and hold lead but too small to allow much of anything else into them. I probably could spend a few hours with a steel brush and solvent, but honestly, I haven't been in that kind of mood over the past decade or so.

 

[ThomasT]

We used to shoot 6-12 shots of jacketed bullets after a day of falling plate matches with lead bullets. The jacketed bullets did a really good job of removing most of the lead in the barrel. Good enough that the cleaning job at home went pretty quick to get a lead free bore. There was more lead on the face of the cylinder to clean off than in the barrel.

I have also used JB bore lapping compound on a patch to clean lead out. Its slow but it gets it all. You can buy lapping compound at the auto store that will do the same thing.

 

[Homerboy]

Neither that not Chore Boy on a brush works. Each rifling groove contains four or five longitudinal grooves. They are large enough to trap and hold lead but too small to allow much of anything else into them. I probably could spend a few hours with a steel brush and solvent, but honestly, I haven't been in that kind of mood over the past decade or so.

Must be really bad. Never had a barrel the Lewis couldn’t clean out

 

[bangswitch]

Good point.... I have not come across a quality one in a long time, and if I did, it's way way overpriced at a gun show. I don't trust buying "used" firearms, especially revolvers, on Gunbroker either...too risky taking a bath others are trying to hide.... oh, and the prices are very high......lastly, armslist has been off my radar for over a year now, I'm considering signing up for it...havnt made the move yet.
Considering a new classic just because I feel it would be a safer purchase if bought new online. You have good points here.

You just have to be patient, something good inevitably comes along at a price you'll be willing to pay. I don't buy anything I can't handle first, and put it through all the function tests to make sure it is mechanically sound. The appearance part is pretty easy. I've been pleasantly surprised at the gun show that comes through here at least twice a year. I found a new-in-the-box M66-1 RB 2-1/2", never fired since the factory, for about what the Standard Catalog gives as a value. and a 6" M27-2 with the presentation box, couldn't have been fired more than a few times. It was a bit rich, but the gun was spotless; found my M57 "S" prefix there, too. Get there early, and practice your haggling. If you show up informed and know what you want, you can go away with a nice piece of weaponry.

 

[Palladan44]

You just have to be patient, something good inevitably comes along at a price you'll be willing to pay. I don't buy anything I can't handle first, and put it through all the function tests to make sure it is mechanically sound. The appearance part is pretty easy. I've been pleasantly surprised at the gun show that comes through here at least twice a year. I found a new-in-the-box M66-1 RB 2-1/2", never fired since the factory, for about what the Standard Catalog gives as a value. and a 6" M27-2 with the presentation box, couldn't have been fired more than a few times. It was a bit rich, but the gun was spotless; found my M57 "S" prefix there, too. Get there early, and practice your haggling. If you show up informed and know what you want, you can go away with a nice piece of weaponry.

You just have to be patient, something good inevitably comes along at a price you'll be willing to pay. I don't buy anything I can't handle first, and put it through all the function tests to make sure it is mechanically sound. The appearance part is pretty easy. I've been pleasantly surprised at the gun show that comes through here at least twice a year. I found a new-in-the-box M66-1 RB 2-1/2", never fired since the factory, for about what the Standard Catalog gives as a value. and a 6" M27-2 with the presentation box, couldn't have been fired more than a few times. It was a bit rich, but the gun was spotless; found my M57 "S" prefix there, too. Get there early, and practice your haggling. If you show up informed and know what you want, you can go away with a nice piece of weaponry.

I'm fairly patient....my collection has been a slow accumulation over decades, and I havnt lost money on a firearm yet.....well, some ones I really wanted I paid up the "going rate". My N frame Smith Vintage deals specifically have been fewer and further between.

 

[loneviking]

Neither that not Chore Boy on a brush works. Each rifling groove contains four or five longitudinal grooves. They are large enough to trap and hold lead but too small to allow much of anything else into them. I probably could spend a few hours with a steel brush and solvent, but honestly, I haven't been in that kind of mood over the past decade or so.

The purple Simple Green, put into a ultrasonic cleaner at 120 degrees for 30 minutes will do it.

 

[Gary W. Strange]

My take on your post is, if you own three of S&W's finest revolvers, from a classic era that are hand fit, why would you want one of the modern ones? I'd take that grand that's burning a hole in your pocket and find another model from that same era. I'm sure the new ones are serviceable and have some positive features, but they're no longer "functional art", just an assembled mechanism, IMO.

I own nothing S&W makes newer than 1981, and don't have any interest in anything newer than that. P&R has a certain cachet that doesn't exist in any S&W after that disappeared.

Back in the 80’s, I was a teenager and worked in a hardware store, that sold firearms. I was too young to buy a handgun then, but I fell in love with the Smith and Wesson’s. They were beautifully made revolvers. I have come to own many now, my favorites are a model 624 no dash and a model 18 no dash. To me they are works of art. I own both pinned and recessed and some that are not. I own a model 21, with the lock and it will go in a trade, at some point. I can’t bring myself to like the locks. I have tried to like them. To me, they are not the same revolvers S&W once made. I still remember when the first S&W revolvers hit the shelves, that were not pinned and recessed. I remember the old timers looking at them and swearing, they were done with S&W. Many truly were. They would buy a used pinned and recessed S&W but turn their noses up a the new ones. I guess, I look at the S&W revolvers with the lock, the same as the old timers looked at the unpinned and unrecessed revolvers. The j,k and l frames, don’t even look the same now. They seem straight, where the hammer falls now. I will but older S&Ws but not one with the lock. Don’t know of a thing wrong with them, they are just not for me. If I were buying, I would buy a nice prelock revolver. Over time, it will hold it’s value better and parts can still be found, to fix it, IF it were to break. If a older S&W revolver is took care of and not abused, it will last many lifetimes. So finding parts, would not bother me. The older revolvers just have a look and feel to them, like nothing coming out of the factory today. Like I say nothing wrong with the lock revolvers, they are just not for me.

 

[Edcnh]

The leading issue would alone be a deal breaker.
Ugh....!

That is good to know! I wonder how plated billets would work.

 

[Palladan44]

That is good to know! I wonder how plated billets would work.

Probably fine at .38 special velocities using a light taper-crimp, anything more; not good.

 

[UncleEd]

Not sure what the problem is regarding
leading.

Those that experience it, especially in
new Smiths, are you driving the bullets
at "magnum" speeds or keeping them
under 1,000 or 900 feet a second?

Why not jacketed bullets for the hotter
loads? Cost is not a valid answer.
Nor is a valid answer in "it's the way
I always did it."