Best .32 under $500?

I am still confused with the OP? Does he want a revolver or a semi auto??
Me too!!!

What does your friend want to do with the gun. That can make a big difference with the decision to get a revolver or semi-auto.

I have both a S&W Model 30 and a Model 31. Basically the same gun but with different grip frames.Both shoot crazy small groups with 32 SWL target ammunition and they do not have any custom features. But they have fixed sights which limits its potential as a critter getter.

Most 32 ACP handguns are not precision shooters these days, gearing for larger targets for personnel protection for larger target. Not exactly what you want for back woods kit gun.

Not counting used guns, any new guns chambered for kit gun style cartridges are going to cost more than $500. They will be chambered in 32 H&R Mag or 327 Fed Mag. Both excellent small critter cartridges. The Ruger GP100 in 327 Fed Mag or the variety of Ruger Single Sixes or Single Sevens chambered in 32 H&R Mag or 327 Fed Mag are great back woods revolvers. But new, they cost more than $500.

Around our hobby horse farm, I use a Ruger SP101 chambered in 327 Fed mag with 32 H&R Mag level loads for crittle control. Several ground hogs have been put out of my misery with this combination.

For self defense, at times i carry a 32 ACP Walther PPK. But it is rare. The micro 380 ACP pistols (Colt Mustang or Kimber Micro) that I have really do a better overall job than the Walther.
 
Scarce and expensive boutique ammo.

Which ammo? You know you can shoot any .32 ammo in the guns - you're not forced to shoot 'scarce and expensive boutique ammo'.


The shorter .32 S&W Long rounds perform poorly from the longer chamber.

What does 'perform poorly' mean? My 327 Fed SP101 shoots 32 long wadcutters very accurately.
 
Which ammo? You know you can shoot any .32 ammo in the guns - you're not forced to shoot 'scarce and expensive boutique ammo'.

What does 'perform poorly' mean? My 327 Fed SP101 shoots 32 long wadcutters very accurately.
Wadcutters is the only thing .327 shoots well, but that being one thing it shoots well doesn't make up for it losing 60 fps with H&R Mag ammo or who knows with non wadcutter .32 S&W Long.

And the SP101 has a the typical heavy, 80s nostalgia trigger and small grips. It's not worth putting an extra $100 into to get an improved version, Ruger should do that at the factory.
 
Which ammo? You know you can shoot any .32 ammo in the guns - you're not forced to shoot 'scarce and expensive boutique ammo'.




What does 'perform poorly' mean? My 327 Fed SP101 shoots 32 long wadcutters very accurately.
Did you ever chronograph them? Would be very surprised if they did even 650 fps....
 
Wadcutters is the only thing .327 shoots well, but that being one thing it shoots well doesn't make up for it losing 60 fps with H&R Mag ammo or who knows with non wadcutter .32 S&W Long.

Please share that data.

My 327 shoots Federal 327 SP ammo quite accurately.

Did you ever chronograph them? Would be very surprised if they did even 650 fps....
722 fps. 4" barrel.
 
I have an H&R 733, the nickeled version. It came with the plastic-tipped guide rod, which shattered the first time I removed the grips. Numrich has the complete assembly with a steel tip, here. No need for a gunsmith.
I would not trust me to try to do any gun repairs or modifications. I know my limitations. Hence, I used a gunsmith to repair my two H&Rs.
 
Please share that data.

My 327 shoots Federal 327 SP ammo quite accurately.
I have


 
What is the best 32 revolver at any price? I don't necessarily mean the most expensive, but the best. By "the best," I mean one that neither makes concessions for being cheap nor is in any way inferior in quality or features to any other revolver that could be said to be "better." I would separate single-action and double-action revolvers.

I do not know the answer to my question. I don't know much about 32 revolvers at all. I have heard that there are some S&W revolvers with the scandium frames and titanium cylinders, ultimate something-or-other. I'm not impressed by aluminum j-frames. I have a S&W 340 PD, and I think it's junk. S&W won't fix it either.

Here is what I think is better:

Smith-and-Wesson-32-Regulation-Police-Cal-32-Smith-and-Wesson-Original-Box-4-1-4-Inch-Barrel_100888128_70986_5D867DCC313E67CC.JPG

Smith-and-Wesson-32-Regulation-Police-Cal-32-Smith-and-Wesson-Original-Box-4-1-4-Inch-Barrel_100888128_70986_660D41EFD5C2B027.JPG
 
There are inherent problems with comparing velocities between different revolvers. You can get dramatically different speeds when shooting the same ammo in identical guns, let alone different ones.

The wadcutters proved that's not the case because the velocity got faster as barrel length increased, but with .32 S&W and .32 H&R the velocity was always slower with the .327's than with the .32 Mag Charter.

I'm not the only person getting these results, others are finding the same thing with their .327's. The only time I've seen a .32 H&R come in slower than .327 is the new S&W Ultimate Carry. I wouldn't make the statement on .327 unless I shot it in multiple guns. The .32 S&W was the most telling because I was getting higher velocities with 90 year old budget H&R top breaks compared to modern quality revolvers like the Ruger and Taurus.

You can defend your purchase all you want, but hollow base wadcutters aside, you have no data to back up that there's no velocity loss in shooting shorter cartridges in a .327 revolver. I have data that says otherwise.
 
I've got bunches of 32's.

For actual pocket carry, the KT P32 is a decent option.

I've owned Taurus and CA 32 snubbies that went bang every time.

The Beretta 81 is an extremely easy and fun pistol to shoot.

The Bersa is just a slightly modified Walther PP. I included a pic of my Hungarian "clone" to represent.

Those are kinda the usual suspects for inexpensive 32's. Then there's bunches of oddball used and surplus stuff. I included my DAO Taurus PT132 in that category... maybe from an overseas PD order or something?






 
I would not trust me to try to do any gun repairs or modifications. I know my limitations. Hence, I used a gunsmith to repair my two H&Rs.

If you can change a lightbull you can replace the hammer spring/strut assembly in an H&R 732.

1. Remove the grips with the properly fitting screwdriver.
2. Pull out the old unit.
3. Insert new unit.
4. Replace the grips.
 
Excellent read can be found here regarding .32 self defense ballistics for revolvers.
32 s&w Ballistics

The S&W Models 30-1 and 31-1 are J frame 6-shot revolvers chambered for .32 S&W Long. Either of these can be reamed to take the .32 H&R Magnum. Prior to the -1 models, ie. Model 30 (no dash) and pre-model 30/31, they are built on the I frame. The cylinder on the I frame guns are too short to accept the long .32 H&R, thus they cannot be reamed for that cartridge.

I have a "Pre Model 30" (round butt) and a Model 31-1 (square butt) which has not been reamed but could be. Based on the ballistics provided by the Lucky Gunner article, I normally carry either the 100 gr. .32 LWC or Magtech 98 gr. SJHP (which also has pretty impressive ballistics).

If either a 30-1 or 31-1 was purchased and reamed for .32 H&R, you can shoot .32 S&W, .32 S&W Long, .32 H&R Mag, or in a pinch even drop in and shoot .32 ACP. If you are diligent and patient, either of these can be found in the $500 range. The pre-model 30 cost me $355 five years ago, and the 31-1 cost me $575 two years ago. Prices have been going only up. Either of these older revolvers are vastly superior to anything being offered today by either Taurus or Charter Arms.
 

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The wadcutters proved that's not the case because the velocity got faster as barrel length increased, but with .32 S&W and .32 H&R the velocity was always slower with the .327's than with the .32 Mag Charter.

I'm not the only person getting these results, others are finding the same thing with their .327's. The only time I've seen a .32 H&R come in slower than .327 is the new S&W Ultimate Carry. I wouldn't make the statement on .327 unless I shot it in multiple guns. The .32 S&W was the most telling because I was getting higher velocities with 90 year old budget H&R top breaks compared to modern quality revolvers like the Ruger and Taurus.

You can defend your purchase all you want, but hollow base wadcutters aside, you have no data to back up that there's no velocity loss in shooting shorter cartridges in a .327 revolver. I have data that says otherwise.
I believe your data on that but why are you so mad at 327s? The way around that problem is to do something I do. I load some 327s down to high 32 H&R velocities and get the best of both worlds. A 1200 FPS 327 beats the H&R and doesn't blow your ears off like one at 1,500 FPS.
 
In taking a quick "look-see" at Gun Broker, the first page of .32 ACP pistols had prices ranging from 2 Seecamps (1 @ $105, other @ $625), 2 Tomcats @ $553 & $570, a Keltec P32 that hasn't been bid on yet @ $0.01, and a Walther PPK/S for $999.
Looking at the revolvers, they had a Charter 32 H&R Magnum "Pink Lady" undercover (2") for $384, a S&W 632 H&R Stainless w/ Titanium cylinder bid @ $460 (buy now @ $729). Most of the other revolvers were OLD and/or in .32-20.
There was a Colt Detective Special in .32 Colt but it was priced at $1,100 !!
 
I believe your data on that but why are you so mad at 327s? The way around that problem is to do something I do. I load some 327s down to high 32 H&R velocities and get the best of both worlds. A 1200 FPS 327 beats the H&R and doesn't blow your ears off like one at 1,500 FPS.
I don't like that one of the big selling points to a revolver is its versatility to shoot other cartridges, but shoots them sub-optimally. The reality is many are carrying a .327 and loading it with .32 H&R, they don't reload, they want the benefits of .32 and view the .327 as being most versatile, but they don't know they're losing potential due to shooting the H&R from the .327.

Yes, you could load the .327 down, I've advocated for that in the past, but only reloaders can do that and most people don't reload.
 
Too much to do about nothing.

You want 327 power, carry it. You want less, carry it.
50 fps can make the difference between a hollow point that expands and one that doesn't, between one that penetrates deep enough and one that doesn't.

If people want to shoot .32 HR Mag, buy a .32 HR Mag revolver.
 
a few years ago i got this colt police positive 32long 4” revolver from gb.com for $250. i dated it to 1922. its skin is sorely wrinkled at 100 years old but its mechanics are superb; i like shooters so i don’t care much about blemishes. it is a wonderful shooter, lightweight, small in the hand, with a long & thin pencil barrel. the 4” barrel makes conceal carry a challenge; maybe a cross draw owb or shoulder holster (in cooler weather) or fanny pack (if outdoorsing) can work, but i have other ccw options that work well, especially a keltec p32, so no need to try now. if one seeks a solid little 32long revolver i highly recommend a colt police positive.

IMG_5222.jpeg
 
Beretta 81 for an autoloader is really about the best there is. I like the CZ83 as well but those are hard to find and expensive these days.

For revolvers, a vintage Smith I-frame is great… but the sights aren’t. Amazing accuracy but he will have to spend some quality time learning to shoot the gun well with its archaic and hard to pick up half moon type blade. A single seven, SP101 is going to probably be over the price threshold because they’re pretty sought after in .32h&r or .327.
 
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