best AK?

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Okay, thanks all so far.

Let me clarify. Best is subjective of course. Some times it comes down to personal taste. Example, 270 vs 30-06. Other times, when making a more apples to oranges comparison, it helps to have more information. Example, 243vs 30-06, there, it is important to know if the asker ever plans to JUST hunt whitetail, also hunt elk, or also hunt yotes.

So here it is. This will be my first semiauto centerfire rifle. Reasons I want one, in order of relevance
1.)"It is anther gun to have I wants it I wants it!",
2.)for fun shooting,
3.)in prep for possible Democrat in whitehouse = new ban
4.)in case of "katrina 2, or Rodney King 2" situations.

I am decided upon 7.62x39, so no need to suggest Galil, or some of the converted AKs.

I am interested in something that can take standard 30 round mags with no modificiation, which leaves out most SAIGA sporter types, even if they are a good buy.

Regarding stock. I would prefer not to have thumbhole, as far as a folder goes I haven't given it much thought, but the underfolders look very flimsey to me, while some of the side folders look pretty stable. Of course, seems you can get an side folder for about $30, so I can always add it later.

Price wise I am looking at something that is a bit less expensive than an introductory AR-15, but of course more expensive than an SKS. This means a lot of the uber rebuilt SAIGA, arsenel, etc, are off my price list. If it is $800 or higher, it is off my list. I am thinking I am looking for something with the list price of $400-$550. Something high on my 'intersted' list is

http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/Yugoslavian_AK_M70AB1_7.62x39_Rifle.html

is that really worth $120 more than what classic arms has listed as

MANY OF YOU HAVE TOLD US THAT YOU DON'T CARE ABOUT BAYONETS, COMPENSATORS, ETC. YOU JUST REALLY WANT TO BE ABLE TO BUY A BUDGET PRICED, ( UNDER $300.00), PLAIN JANE AK RIFLE AGAIN. WELL WE HAVE FINALLY FIGURED OUT HOW TO MAKE THAT HAPPEN. THESE ARE THE ORIGINAL WASR-10
HI-CAP AK RIFLES LESS COMPENSATOR AND BAYONET LUG. COMES WITH 1 30 ROUND MAG, SLING, OILER, AND MANUAL.
AVAILABLE NOW............ $299.95..............3 OR MORE...$289.95



I see WASRs for as cheap as $300, romanian for 350. I haven't spotted many maadi yet. These seem bottom of the barrel price wise, and according to the comments here, bottom of the barrel quality wise. That is the kind of info I am looking for. Exactly how much more quality do I get by paying say $100 extra to get a Yugo instead?

What is the next tier up from those mentioned above? Yugos? Anything else? How about Sierra Arms, Vector, Lanchaster? Apparently these guys build AKs from parts kits, (I see them advertised at AtlanticFirearms.com amongst other places. When it is assembled here, does it matter so much what the origin of the parts is? Are these guys using romanian bits, yugo bits, old chinese bits?
 
akodo , The yugo underfolder is very rugged, and folded very compact. I own one. You do not get a good cheek weld however, which to me can be important. So this part depends huh.. Compact? Cheek weld??

I also happen to have 2 SAR-1's with the typical Romainian shoulder stock. Most Americans which include me are too big to really shoulder this stock well, but in winter that short stock makes more sence. Recoil pads are built up some to correct the fit, more over than to lesser recoil.

Recoil is similar to a 30-30 Winchester as is ballistics roughly speaking.

More or less since the triggers are American made as part of the ridiculous parts count, are singlr hook style, which many Americans correct to double hook styles, due to trigger slap. Trigger slap tends to sting and at first many shooters don't notice, but after a time of steady plinking, they discover the tip of the trigger finger hurts. Gloves also help.

A reason I have 2 is my wife is right handed and I am lefty. The ft sight is a bit difficult to adjust, and it just makes sence to have 2 guns in my case. This way my gun is set to rock and so is hers.

My wife also loves my 8mm K-98 (The mule) I bought a lot as a lot of old corrosive Turk 8mm, and my best guess is as made for a machine gun, since at a measured 150 years it hit some 14" high but 10 rnds made one ragged hole. That has been resited to be dead on at 150 yard my way with the same ammo.. Just so maybe you and other can understand a women can probably with stand more recoil than men. She can shoot it more than I can because her frame bends better like a wicker basket in a hurricane, leaving me more oak tree like.

Getting back to Ak's, Even the lowly Wasser is a hoot to shoot. Some guys don't like the converted wasser mag wiggle and do all sorts of things to fix that. Some epoxie steel pads inside, othjer just lay on epoxie and call it good, while others go to exotic measures and create dimples like the SAR-1.

One thing is certain the prices are not getting any lower. Last I knew a used SAR-1 was going for somewhat more than when I bought mine as new.

There are so many, getting used parts bogles the mind, as to whether or not 1970's Chevy or AK parts will get used up first. I certainly can't take that wild of a guess.

There are lots of choices still, and with some hands on you can build, but I don't believe sell one you make..

If and When you get one if you believe there could be any form of bann, it could be a wise idea to buy ammo too. It might be a good idea to put up some as reloadable brass, and maybe have primers... But I don't know about all that much.
 
Macmac said:
More or less since the triggers are American made as part of the ridiculous parts count, are singlr hook style, which many Americans correct to double hook styles, due to trigger slap. Trigger slap tends to sting and at first many shooters don't notice, but after a time of steady plinking, they discover the tip of the trigger finger hurts. Gloves also help.
It's not the number of hooks that makes for trigger slap, it's the shape of the disconnector.

Century had some European AK trigger parts copied and made thousands of them....all with a disconnecter that rides high and gets smacked by the bolt carrier both ways. The bottom of the disconnector is shaped so that it transmits these 'whacks' to the trigger. This is what causes your trigger slap.

This is what fixes it.

We are lucky in that Century ran out of its FCGs a while back and now uses Tapco G2s. If you have an older Century import, and suffer from trigger slap, the above link may be helpful.
 
If I was worried about a ban, I'd surely not get a cheap one. Just imagine, you have no reasonable chance to ever buy one again, and you're stuck with a "cheap" gun. The value of the nicer ones would be more likely to rise in comparison (like a FA Mac-10 compared to a FA MP-5--but that's just speculation on my part).

Other side of the coin is that we seem to be ready to compromise to a ban, thinking that'll it just be similar to the AWB--often failing to realize their plan is to ban ownership not purchase. (so maybe a cheap one is the way to go, less to lose when they take 'em...)

atlantic firearms has a nice lineup with prices--that's a good one place stop to look. I like the milled myself, but also build a lot of my own. I like 'em all (well, not crazy about the underfolders...), but if i was to keep only one I think it'd be my bulgy milled.
 
the Yugo aim is selling and the Yugo Classic is selling are the exact same rifle, both are assembled by Century Arms and a great deal for the $$

The Yugo AKs were designed for launching rifle grenades, the standard proceedure was to place the rifles butt aganst the ground as the shock of launching a 1.5lb projectile is much heavier than launching a 124 grn bullet, the Yugo underfolder was plenty sturdy enough to do this..... the extra strain of grenade launching is why they used the heavier 1.6 mm receiver as well as the heavier RPK front trunion and heavier barrel.......

As Nalioth says single hook nor double hook has anything to do with trigger slap and in fact the original trigger design is for a single hook as the autosear in a full auto uses the other side the only original double hook triggers were Semi auto Chicoms

The yugo is your best choice provided you make sure the sights are straight this is about the only place the builders can really mess up with one

if ya order from Classic Arms ask to talk to Ben (the owner) ask him if he can make sure your gun has non canted sights and that mags latch in tight BEFORE they ship it as you would like to avoid the added expense to them of the rifle being sent back because the sights are canted or the mags don't latch in properly not to mention you being without your rifle while they try to correct a problem that could have been prevented with a simple inspection prior to shipping.. he will make sure you get a nice gun. The other online dealers will not bother as they will not refund or credit your FFL transfer fees or return shipping while Ben will make an effort in the form of sending ya extras etc... to cover added expenses if a customer has to return a rifle... so its better for him if he realizes you will be sending it back to just make sure there is no reason from the start..


BTW if your asking is the price difference worth it over a WASR then YES most deffinetly, Classic sells their Yugo M70AB1 for the same price as AIM......
 
Thanks nalioth ... I can do that easy.. The slap I have isn't bad, or as bad as I hear others mention, so I never bothered to look into it.

My guns are just the way they come from the box.. Good enough to suit me.

I suppose I will now have to investagte and see myself and maybe do something with my dremels. What a handy tool those are. U have 2 hooked into old sewwing machine pedals so I can have both hands free.

For MORE Power! LOL I have converted fordom cables to old sewwing machime motors too. One day I hope to have a few Foredom tools, but those babies are steep bucko's.
 
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