Best blackpowder substitute for a tradiational muzzleloader.

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earlthegoat2 said:
That is my go to bullet anymore. As a wise acquaintance of mine once said, “Muzzleloaders are made for real black powder and pure lead bullets.”

Not exactly true, I know, but I agree with the philosophy.
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Well it was true, but I suppose steel is much more way better then what the old timers had. The Muzzle Loader hunting seasons were made for us Danial Boon Leather Stocking born too late types, but now they are a race to see who can make a muzzle loader most unlike a muzzle loader, powder most unlike black powder, and bullets made out of plastic and copper. :scrutiny: The Rat race is over, and the Rat's have won.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Well it was true, but I suppose steel is much more way better then what the old timers had. The Muzzle Loader hunting seasons were made for us Danial Boon Leather Stocking born too late types, but now they are a race to see who can make a muzzle loader most unlike a muzzle loader, powder most unlike black powder, and bullets made out of plastic and copper. :scrutiny: The Rat race is over, and the Rat's have won.
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Sheesh! Here in MS you don't have to use black powder or a muzzleloader during primitive weapons season.
 
hawg said:
Sheesh! Here in MS you don't have to use black powder or a muzzleloader during primitive weapons season.
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Here in Washington State they just narrowly almost approved scopes on muzzleloaders. Somewhat recently they approved shotgun shell primers, because of the outcry that "if the rifle fails to fire or hang-fires it will wound the game and blah blah blah". Okay...you need a primer to get your rifle or substitute powder to go off? Maybe you got the wrong rifle. Or powder. But...oh well. I guess ML tags are no longer selling well, probably lucky to still have a ML season. The Leather-Stockings are a dying breed.
 
Bought 25 1lb cans about a decade ago or so for $7 a can. Goex 3f.
Thats all the flinter uses. The revolver is going out soon to try a can to 777 out, for high speeds.
I tried Pyrodex decades ago, hated it.
 
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Pyrodex is the closest chemically to real black and performs like Swiss. It's also a lot cheaper than T7. I haven't seen T7 on the shelves in years. My LGS stocks Pyrodex.
 
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Ugly Sauce said:
Yes. It chain fired in my 1860, blew off the front sight and the loading lever latch-stud. It sure will!!! :)
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Dang. Good thing I only ever load one at a time.
I guess I've been very happy with it. I've had the least trouble w/ ignition with T7.
Prior to using T7 I've had Pyrodex, and Jim Shockey gold (which I hated) with slight ignition problems.
The JS gold created moisture when it burned. Supposedly made it lube the bore. I hated that.
I was considering going to a musket cap system, but didn't have to w/ T7. . YMMV
 
The only ignition problem I've had with Pyrodex was with an 1863 Sharps. The Sharps has a long fire channel with two turns. It still fired but it hang fired. Revolvers and sidelocks fire instantly
 
I have and shoot Goex FFg, Pyrodex RS and 777 (both powder and pellets).

I like the convenience of the 50 gr pellets, but my rifle shoots best with 90 grs.

777 is cleaner. RS is CRUDDY. Goex is my favorite, but I like knowing I can pick any and have a good shooter.

Never had a misfire, but my Remington uses 209 primers.
 
Palladan44 said:
I was considering going to a musket cap system, but didn't have to w/ T7. . YMMV
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I prefer musket cones on rifles and single shot pistols, not sure if they actually make a big difference, but it gives me a little more "peace of mind". However, with real black powder I've never had ignition problems or issues with any of my firearms. (other than a new, out-of-the-box revolver with mechanical problems. !!!) (But Jack put a stop to that Little Brat's bad behavior)

On my Plains Pistol, I got a musket cone for that, but the hammer face is not perfectly square with the face or tip of the cone. With #11's, it's very slight, but with the bigger musket cone it's more obvious. So the hammer is only striking about 50% of the musket cone. With the 11's I'd guess about 75%. I think it would work fine, but it kicks my OCD into high gear, so until I get around to some el-bendo-heat-o to get the hammer square with the nips, I'll just stay with the #11's, as that pistol has never failed to fire. Why bother with the musket cone? OCD!!!!
 
I find the little delay between cap ignition and substitute ignition (“pop-bang”) annoying. Real blackpowder ignites at a lower temperature than any substitute and is therefore less likely to produce a misfire. Buy top quality real blackpowder, suck it up and pay the Hazmat fee. It’s less than one dinner at a fast food drive- in.
 
J-Bar said:
I find the little delay between cap ignition and substitute ignition (“pop-bang”) annoying. Real blackpowder ignites at a lower temperature than any substitute and is therefore less likely to produce a misfire. Buy top quality real blackpowder, suck it up and pay the Hazmat fee. It’s less than one dinner at a fast food drive- in.
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I don't get that with Pyrodex.
 
hawg said:
I don't get that with Pyrodex.
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I have, mostly in percussion revolvers and occasionally in my Hawken. I don’t think it would be noticeable in an inline using 209 primers. Sorry I can’t remember what firearms you use.

I like Pyrodex and 777 in blackpowder cartridges and shotshells. I don’t have problems with Pyrodex corrosion. I am not a Pyrodex hater by any means. I just find real blackpowder works better for me when using percussion caps.
 
J-Bar said:
I have, mostly in percussion revolvers and occasionally in my Hawken. I don’t think it would be noticeable in an inline using 209 primers. Sorry I can’t remember what firearms you use.

I like Pyrodex and 777 in blackpowder cartridges and shotshells. I don’t have problems with Pyrodex corrosion. I am not a Pyrodex hater by any means. I just find real blackpowder works better for me when using percussion caps.
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I like real black better too. Just sayin I don't have any problems with Pyro. I use sidelock rifles and revolvers. I dunno, maybe my ears slow fire.:D
 
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