Best powder for beginner reloading .38sp?

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Well, I have the press, the bench is built, I got some dies, but I've got no components. I was originally planning on starting with .45, but I ended up picking up some .38sp dies instead. I'm about to start buying components and I have a quick question...

What's a good powder for light target loads in .38sp.?

Also, please consider suggesting a forgiving powder for the noob.

I'm leaning toward Bullseye, 231/HP-38, or perhaps Universal... suggestions?
 
I load .38 Special with W231 and see no reason to change. It works from mid-range wadcutter to +P. I tried others early on but Ball is best.
 
Trail Boss is wonderful to work with, wont allow you to double charge a case IIRC.
It is all that I use for light loads.
 
check out Trail Boss

Pros:
fluffy "cheerios" shape so it fills the case and makes a double charge very obvious. Even a double charge will be low power.


Cons:
so fluffy that you don't get a whole pound in a regular 1 lb. jug. Still super cheap compared to buying factory ammo though.
Doesn't meter as well as 231.

Do some searches and you'll find a bunch of posts. I started on trail boss and still use it. The safety aspect appealed to me. I've used in in 45acp and 30-30 too. Recommended for lead bullets. Was designed for cowboy action type low power loads.
 
I was originally planning on starting with .45,
Click to expand...
45 what ?
Another vote for W-231 for .38spl. It also works excellent for .45 acp.
I also use Bullseye for .38spl and .45acp, I like Bullseye a little better for lead loads.
I think Universal would work best at the upper end of .38spl data, myself I would get W-231 or Bullseye and Universal later.
 
I only use W231 for 38 Spl. It is one of the best metering powders I have tried. 3.7 grs. is a nice mild load with a 158 gr. lead bullet. I use 3.5 grs. for a 148 gr. DEWC.
 
Trail Boss for starters to figure out the work flow of reloading.

When the process makes sense and you understand how it all works, go ahead and try some other powders. It's not that Trail Boss is fantastically good or that other powders are inherently more dangerous, but Bullseye and Trail Boss are on opposite sides of the spectrum for forgiveness.
 
I use Bullseye in all my pistol loads. I load 9mm, 38, 357, & 45 with it. Get a good workflow going, good lighting, no distractions, and have at it. Many powders work well, that is just what I use.
 
I used Bullseye for light target loads or Unique as it works well with a wide variety of calibers.

Be aware that is you are using cast bullets, you will get smoke and residue. that will be for the most part from the lube and not the powder.

In today's market, powder selection may be determined more by availability than suitability.
 
I'm new to reloading myself and have mainly used AA#2 for .38 special.
 
I also think trail boss is the way to go. It's essentially impossible to double charge, it's a clean handling powder and it loads really easy.

I'd stay clear of Unique to start. It can cling to surfaces and the variations between safe and unsafe loads are microscopic.
 
Trail Boss can bridge over in many powder measure drop tubes, so it is not the "be all end all" solution to perfect loads either.

Anyway, one should depend on diligence and good reloading safety practices to prevent double charges, not fluffy powder.

Start out by getting some 50 round loading blocks, charge all 50 cases at once, and then use a good light to compare all the powder charges before you seat bullets.

A double charge of Bullseye is readily apparent if you take the one simple step of looking at them.

rc
 
38 sp is great candidate for beginning reloading.
There are a minimum number of reloading steps.
There is a large safety margin in pressure.
The components are common and cheap.
The tools needed are common and cheap.

I would use Unique, but there are ~50 other pistol powders that would work well.

I would not start out trying to seat the bullet and crimp the case mouth in one step.
I would seat the bullets with the seater die up high and the seating stem down low.
Then I would crimp the case mouth into the bullet with the die adjusted down low and the seating stem adjusted up high.

Seat the bullet until the case mouth lines up with the canalure in the bullet.
Keep records with the ammo and on your computer so you can stay organized and keep fine tuning to what you want.
 
Start out by getting some 50 round loading blocks, charge all 50 cases at once, and then use a good light to compare all the powder charges before you seat bullets.
Click to expand...
Good advice !
All of my flared and primed cases are orientated with the head stamp UP in the loading block so there is no question about which case is charged and which is not.
 
I recommend Red Dot powder if you have a good powder measure or are weighing each charge. (RD is kind of light and fluffy, I don't know if a cheap measure can throw it accurately.) It takes up a lot of room in the case even with light charges, and it is not sensitive to charge weight variations or shooting position.

Bullseye is another good one, and it measures easier.

Stay away from Titegroup powder. It disappears in large cases like .38 Special. It also burns unusually hot and scorches your brass, and it makes a lot of smoke with cast bullets.

I have about 1/4 pound of Titegroup powder left. I'm gonna try it with 9mm; it might be really good for that one.
 
Last edited:
Unique (4.5gr under 158gr LSWC) shoots very well out a 3" 357 (for me) but make sure you bring a toothbrush if you plan on shooting more than a dozen rounds or so!

I understand it doesn't meter very well but, since my powder measure is my scale that is of no practical concern to me.
 
Anyway, one should depend on diligence and good reloading safety practices to prevent double charges, not fluffy powder.

Start out by getting some 50 round loading blocks, charge all 50 cases at once, and then use a good light to compare all the powder charges before you seat bullets.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you can bet your boots I'll be sight checking my loads for a long time. I double check everything anyways.
 
I've not had a problem using Unique. It meters very well through several Dillon measures and a Lyman. Of course patience and safety are always required. While measuring each load is fine and I do it for low quality match loads, for practice rounds that will be old fast. At some point when you are comfortable with the process a quality measure should be considered.

What is the "best powder" is no different that what is the "best oil" over on the Harley sites. Everyone has their favorite and most are correct in their thinking.

I use Unique in many of my plated and FMJ loads and I don't find it that dirty. Most of those comments seem to come from people shooting cast lubed loads
 
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