Best thing I've ever left Home Depot with/SP101

[stonebuster]

I made a legal transfer in a Home Depot parking lot today coming home with a "new" .357 SP101 model 1520. The seller put one box of ammo through it and decided he didn't like it. I know they're a hand full with .357 but I don't think at 26 oz. it'll be too bad with 38+P(I hope). Hickok45's review of the SP 101 in .357 included the word "Ouch !" which was the first time I ever heard that from him. Dry firing I noticed the trigger had a big hitch in the pull about the time the transfer bar was coming up over the firing pin if I pulled the trigger slowly. Hopefully that's normal and will smooth out with use. Other than that I think I'll like it and will make a trip to the range this week.

 

[horsemen61]

Good for you!

 

[gotboostvr]

Thats a pretty slick looking DAO snub!

 

[reddog81]

My GP100 had casting imperfections on the hammer strut that caused a similar issue. Replacing that $5 part made a huge difference in the trigger pull. You can disassemble the gun and check out the part pretty easily.

 

[stonebuster]

My GP100 had casting imperfections on the hammer strut that caused a similar issue. Replacing that $5 part made a huge difference in the trigger pull. You can disassemble the gun and check out the part pretty easily.

I smoothed up the edges and ends of the hammer struts on my GPs too while I had it apart to put some hammer shims in. I'll give the SP a look and see what I see. I figured I'd put a Wolfe 10# spring in to lighten up the pull but I don't find it that stiff. It's supposed to be 14# out of the box but doesn't seem that bad to me. I was surprised how loose the transfer bar is. When I tilt the gun while pulling the trigger the transfer bar flops back and forth unlike my two GPs. A search found others with the same issue that apparently doesn't pose a problem. I'm just getting used to a slightly different Ruger revolver.

 

[Mark 40]

Great acquisition stonebuster. Is that a factory spurless hammer? I had a trusted local gunsmith modify the spurred hammer on mine to spurless/DAO.
Trust me, it won't be bad at all with +P. Enjoy!

 

[stonebuster]

Great acquisition stonebuster. Is that a factory spurless hammer? I had a trusted local gunsmith modify the spurred hammer on mine to spurless/DAO.
Trust me, it won't be bad at all with +P. Enjoy!

Thanks. Yes, factory spurless hammer. I've been considering a snub for a while and looked at a lot of them. The extra heft of the SP should make it much more enjoyable to shoot at the range vs the ultra lights allowing me to practice with it more. Plus I won't shoot it loose.

 

[Drail]

EXCELLENT choice man! The SP 101 has been my wife's carry gun since about 1992. It's soft shooting with .38 Spl. loads. Rubber Hogues help even more. I wouldn't waste your money on +P .38 loads in that snub - the difference is miniscule. You'll just get more flash and bang. I like to use a 140 gr. bullet over WST powder. Very accurate. Speer's Gold Dot load is VERY good from a snub. The trigger hitch you described sounds like it might be the hammer dog was not fitted properly - the engagement and when it starts and stops is very crucial. This problem usually shows up on older very worn Ruger DA revolvers but yours may just be too short from the factory. Ruger will fix it if you send it back to them. You're right - you WON'T shoot THAT snub loose.

 

[Monster Zero]

View attachment 813323 I made a legal transfer in a Home Depot parking lot today coming home with a "new" .357 SP101 model 1520. The seller put one box of ammo through it and decided he didn't like it. I know they're a hand full with .357 but I don't think at 26 oz. it'll be too bad with 38+P(I hope). Hickok45's review of the SP 101 in .357 included the word "Ouch !" which was the first time I ever heard that from him. Dry firing I noticed the trigger had a big hitch in the pull about the time the transfer bar was coming up over the firing pin if I pulled the trigger slowly. Hopefully that's normal and will smooth out with use. Other than that I think I'll like it and will make a trip to the range this week.

I have one similar to that - Actually a special production run for TALO that has the black cerakote finish, spurred hammer and 2.25" barrel like yours.

I've not shot any magnums thru it, but I've shot BB 158 grain +P's in it and it's actually quite pleasant. My wife's 3" SP is a challenge with magnum loads, so that's got to be what Hickok was getting at. I don't expect to ever shoot magnums in this piece, and probably not ever in my wife's 3" again now that I've tried it. The SP, IMO, is made for lots of practice shooting and to be carried with .38 +P's or not quite full power magnum loads. I don't feel any deficit with the +P's myself in either one. BTW in a Simply Rugged sourdough holster this revolver will almost disappear, whether you carry IWB or OWB.

BTW I really like those Pachmayr grips you got there...

 

[Riomouse911]

Sweet! A heck of a lot better take home item than the Chinese-made bolts and screws that HD sells as “hardware”. I twist the heads off those junkers regularly...

My SP is the .38 Spl model, and it’s a real pussycat with all but the absolute stoutest of 38+P loads. I think you’ll find your .357 model is a great gun to shoot and carry.

Stay safe!!

 

[Tallball]

Good find! My friend has one like that and it's a real pussycat with 38 specials. It's actually not bad with 357's. You will enjoy it for many years!

 

[ArchAngelCD]

In not a fan of the SP101 but they are good guns just like most Rugers. It's the trigger I don't like, the GP100 is much better IMO. BTW, they are not at all bad to shoot with .357 Magnum ammo. I have a 23oz S&W M640 that I shoot all the time with full power magnums, your revolver is heavier @26oz.

Good luck with your new gun.

 

[Master Blaster]

QUOTE: I made a legal transfer in a Home Depot parking lot today coming home with a "new" .357 SP101

What Northeast State still allows face to face sales with no NICS Background check?

 

[stonebuster]

QUOTE: I made a legal transfer in a Home Depot parking lot today coming home with a "new" .357 SP101

What Northeast State still allows face to face sales with no NICS Background check?

We followed state law to the letter. Both of us are pistol permit holders and residents of the state. We filled out the 4 copies of the DPS form. One copy to the Special licensing and firearms div.(state), one for the purchaser, seller, and my local police dept. We called special licensing and firearms division for an authorization number along with our pistol permit numbers and other personal information which is all included on the DPS forms provided to the agencies and us to be retained for twenty years. We have some of the strictest gun laws in the nation and all were followed.

 

[bannockburn]

stonebuster

Nice looking SP101; really like those Pachmayr grips! Great acquisition!

 

[stonebuster]

stonebuster

Nice looking SP101; really like those Pachmayr grips! Great acquisition!

Thanks. It was a nice plus thrown in by seller as well as the other 30 rounds of .357 from the box he didn't finish. The Pachmayr grips are larger than stock grips and fit my big paws better. Going to the range now to try it out.

 

[Riomouse911]

We followed state law to the letter. Both of us are pistol permit holders and residents of the state. We filled out the 4 copies of the DPS form. One copy to the Special licensing and firearms div.(state), one for the purchaser, seller, and my local police dept. We called special licensing and firearms division for an authorization number along with our pistol permit numbers and other personal information which is all included on the DPS forms provided to the agencies and us to be retained for twenty years. We have some of the strictest gun laws in the nation and all were followed.

Those steps are paperwork heavy, but at least you can do them without all the hoops I have to jump through. You want to see some strict gun laws visit Ca. And it’s only gonna get worse with the San Francisco trust-fund baby Gavin Screwsome taking over Jan 1.

Again, a revolver buy!

 

[Master Blaster]

Great looking SP 101 congrats on your new revolver.

 

[WheelGunMan]

Nice score! I've got a twin to that. I like the grip.

Get a Wolff hammer spring set and find the one that fits you. That and clean up the trigger spring channel of unwanted debris by HAND turning a 1/4" drill bit thru it. Those two fixes will smooth it out considerably. If you want to go the full mantra...you can change the trigger springs and install some hammer shims. I did all that to mine and the action is glass smooth.

 

[Drail]

Yup. A brand new stock Ruger revolver will have more trash (burrs and chips) in the trigger spring channel than you would believe. Not some Rugers - ALL Rugers. Ruger doesn't seem to have a de burring dept. Lightening springs will have little effect unless you clean all that trash out. Then if you really want to get serious you can shim the trigger and hammer and play with springs. Ruger DA revolvers can be tuned for a reasonably smooth trigger pull but they will never be as nice as a S&W. But they cost much less than a S&W too. Felt recoil will be less with rubber Hogues or Pachmayr grips. That may be the reason the owner couldn't deal with it. The wood grips look very nice but they will slap your palm harder than rubber ones.

 

[stonebuster]

The range trip went well with good accuracy and functioning of the SP. I started with Remington 130 grain FMJ 38spl and shot 80 rounds to get use to the gun since it's my first snub. As expected to recoil was mild. Then I shot a couple cylinders of Perfecta 158 grain .357 mag FMJ which were pretty rough on the hands with the wood grips. I've got RArthritis bad in both hands so that's a big part of it and I'm sure the Hogue rubber grips would help. I'll try stouter 38 spl next trip. Later, I installed hammer shims and hammer dog shims that I had left over from shimming my GPs. I pulled the spring off the hammer strut and smoothed the edges and top of the strut and polished with Mother's mag polish. The hitch in the trigger pull is still there especially if you pull trigger slowly. It's like you hit a wall when the top of the hammer is 1/2" back and then the cylinder snaps to the next cylinder notch. If you pull more quickly it's not as noticeable. Once it gets past that spot it's very smooth. I'll watch some you tube vids on how to disassemble and get to the trigger spring channel. Does what I'm describing fit the trash in the trigger spring channel theory?

 

[WrongHanded]

How's the barrel/cylinder gap?

Is the hitch in the trigger pull happening every time? Is it happening if you hold the gun pointed down? Pointed up? Left side down? Right side down? If it's only happening in some positions, or at certain times, it could be the transfer bar hanging up.

 

[Master Blaster]

If you point the muzzle down does the Hitch catch worse or jam?
If you point the Muzzle up does the hitch go away or lessen?
If you answer yes to both questions then it is probably the transfer bar catching on the frame.

 

[stonebuster]

How's the barrel/cylinder gap?

Is the hitch in the trigger pull happening every time? Is it happening if you hold the gun pointed down? Pointed up? Left side down? Right side down? If it's only happening in some positions, or at certain times, it could be the transfer bar hanging up.

I've tried it every position and it happens every time. When I hold the gun up to a light and look at the BC gap and pull the trigger I can see the gap narrow to almost touching when the cylinder locks into the cylinder notch. The BC gap narrows after the break past the "hitch"(on lock up before firing) and opens again after trigger resets. I've looked at my GP100s B/C gaps and they don't narrow in this way but maybe the SP is a different animal. I've been doing a lot of dry firing to see if it helps. I may install a 10# spring. I really like this little gun and I'm going to wait and see if it smooths up with use before I go any further.

 

[WrongHanded]

I've tried it every position and it happens every time. When I hold the gun up to a light and look at the BC gap and pull the trigger I can see the gap narrow to almost touching when the cylinder locks into the cylinder notch. The BC gap narrows after the break past the "hitch"(on lock up before firing) and opens again after trigger resets. I've looked at my GP100s B/C gaps and they don't narrow in this way but maybe the SP is a different animal. I've been doing a lot of dry firing to see if it helps. I may install a 10# spring. I really like this little gun and I'm going to wait and see if it smooths up with use before I go any further.

Perhaps you know of this already, but there is a way to remove the cylinder from the equation. Swing it out and use a punch (or whatever fits) to depress the pin in the recoil shield. I don't know the name of the pin, but it's the one directly effected by the cylinder latch, where the cylinder locks into the rear of the frame below the firing pin.

Anyhow, if you depress that, you can pull the trigger rearward and so cycle the action. If the hitch is still present, it's not cause by B/C friction, or the pawl/ratchet interaction.