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Best way to deprime fired shells

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by EHCRain10, May 29, 2008.

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  1. EHCRain10

    EHCRain10 Member

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    I will be getting into reloading soon and have already started to save my once fired cases, I would like to have them clean and deprimed prior to my press arriving. I have no idea how cases are deprimed so this might be a null and void question without the press but is there any way to remove the fired primers without a press?

    thanks for the help guys!
     
  2. snuffy

    snuffy Member

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    A question like that tells us that you have not read a thing on reloading. Get a loading manual, better yet get two, read the front part where they explain the steps involved in turning fired empty brass into loaded rounds.

    That said, brass is deprimed during the resizing step by a pin in a stem inside the sizing die. Lee sells a military deprimer that uses a plastic hammer, punch, and base to drive out the primers. But it's futile to do that extra work without the rest of the set up.
     
  3. spencerhut

    spencerhut Member

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    Use a hammer and a nail. Crude . . . but it works
     
  4. CBS220

    CBS220 Member

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    If you miss it can also tear holes in the brass and ruin it... or possibly just weaken it dangerously.

    At the risk of sounding rude, the first response was correct. This is one of the most basic steps involved in reloading, and without the most basic information like that, it is a little dangerous to even consider approaching a loading bench!
     
  5. EHCRain10

    EHCRain10 Member

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    I appreciate the quick responses from you all,
    I have read a reloading manual but that was a month ago before exams so excuse my forgetfulness, I will make sure to reread and do my best to understand all of the processes prior to getting a press.
     
  6. FlyinBryan

    FlyinBryan Member

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    ya, depriming is done with the press and the sizing die like the others said.

    i highly suggest a book called the abc's of reloading.

    i got one from the mid 70s on ebay for bout 5 bux.

    the guy that wrote it is funny along the way, and is an authority on the subject.

    grinnell is his name i think.
     
  7. spencerhut

    spencerhut Member

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    You guys kill me. Press? We don't need no stinkin' press. Nobody has any sense of humor anymore . . .

    Oh . . 6" ten penny works great on the .25ACP. I can do 500 to 1000 per hour while I'm watching TV and doing my taxes.
     
  8. JeepGeeek

    JeepGeeek member

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    cheap lee singlestage press and the universal decapper sounds like the ticket for ya.
     
  9. Afy

    Afy Member

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    Universal deprimer...
     
  10. 45ACPUSER

    45ACPUSER Member

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    You need to review The ABC's of Reloading!
     
  11. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    Lee used to sell, and may still, a hand kit to knock out fired primers. (A base and a steel punch) I have one. Works great. Comes in handy from time to time. Items around your work area can be found that will work also.
     
  12. cpttango30

    cpttango30 Member

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    Lee makes a universal decaping die they work great too for just getting the primer out. You say you do not have a press yet then your stuck like chuck. Using a nail is just plane stupid because to can and will ruin more brass than you will make usable.

    The press ram is hollow to allow the primer to fall out into a collection system weather it is a tube with a cup or just a big plastic cup that attaches to the press.

    Plus many flash holes on regular brass are not drilled like the high end brass from Normal, Laupa, or Nosler. So you have jagged edges to content with as well.

    I do not understand all the nasty or snippy comments on this thread. The guy asked a valid question to see if he could get a head start of things. Uppity snob answers like this is a good way to turn off new reloaders from asking questions that may be much more important in the future. I think some people on here need to switch to decaf.
     
  13. Sport45

    Sport45 Member

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    You can remove the fired primers before you get a press as others have said, but why would you want to? Decapping is the fastest step in the process and you won't save any time by doing it before the press arrives. Just clean the primed brass and you'll be ready. I don't clean primer pockets anyway.
     
  14. CBS220

    CBS220 Member

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    If a person does not know how to crank a car, should that person be driving?

    In the interest of safety, it is necessary to know certain things.
     
  15. SASS#23149

    SASS#23149 Member

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    imho,depriming before tumbling...IF you are buyng a tumbler and not hand wiping..is not the way to go.The media won't clean the pockets but will plug them with media.
    Others will disagree,to each his own way on this step.
    Are you going to be working with military brass?They require another step..removing the crimp.
     
  16. lee n. field

    lee n. field Member

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    Don't bother.
     
  17. Dumpster Baby

    Dumpster Baby Member

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    This is the depriming pin in the resizing die, and it works on everything but crimped military primers:

    Deprimer.jpg

    The Lee and Forster mallet driven depriming punches are what I use for crimped military primers, and will also work on any other Boxer primer. They are made mostly in .22 and .30 cal sizes and are pretty universal in nature:

    [​IMG]

    There are also universal depriming dies that have heavy duty spindles and pins, but the only real use for them is for folks who can't stand the thought of using the depriming punch and base sets:

    [​IMG]

    Military brass with crimped primer pockets have to have the crimp removed. Most people ream the edge of the primer pocket, but all us smart ones use a primer pocket swager instead, for most uniform results: :D

    [​IMG]

    There's more nit picky details, but this is the gist of it.
     
  18. ClarkEMyers

    ClarkEMyers Member

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    Many ways to deprime -

    I started with a nail to go with a Lyman 310 tool and an incomplete die set. As I recall I improvised just to see a spent primer and primer pocket when I was just starting and no harm done these past 40 odd years. Later I got some better equipment - no more fun but better equipment including up to and including a Hollywood Universal Turret.

    On the other hand my advice is to go with a good single stage press that keeps down lead pollution in the reloading set up - the Forster/Bonanza Co-Ax does a good job of keeping everything captive. A punch and base is liable to spread lead around.

    Myself I used to decap as a seperate step using whatever was handy mostly a punch and base set - punch and base worked better with cases that had a flash hole uniformer run through to sort of funnel the flash hole from the inside. I had a Lee yankee screwdriver style primer pocket cleaner inlet facing up on a dedicated reloading bench so I could decap and push the case down once - it did not clean the pocket very well but it was a start - so that when I tumbled - this was before the vibrator craze - the primer pockets would come clean.

    A Pope style de and recapper is a neat way to deal with primers not mentioned so far but again loose spent primers are a lead hazard.
     
  19. Shoney

    Shoney Member

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    Removing live primers!

    Removng live primers? Take this to heart,
    Every loader must learn this little art;

    Recycle those primer, any ol’ way;
    For fowling shots, or just for play;

    How to remove? you might ask
    Always safety first, on this little task;

    No primers to toss, no brass to pitch;
    just decap the hole on’at son-of-a-b-b-b-b-b-------gun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  20. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    I don't agree.
    A standard resizing die will de-prime any GI crimped primer ever made.

    The only possible exception would be some foreign ammo with small flash holes the de-priming pin won't fit through.

    rcmodel
     
  21. Dumpster Baby

    Dumpster Baby Member

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    I bent some depriming pins doing that, way back in my first reloading efforts in the 1960's, and have been using the punch and base for crimped cases ever since. I even broke a few of those pins on early .30-06 balloon head cases with small flash holes.
     
  22. JesseL

    JesseL Member

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    Be careful decapping with a nail. It's very easy to enlarge a flash hole that way and bigger flash holes can mean faster ignition and higher pressures when the cartridge is loaded and fired.

    I've read of problems with loading .220 Swift, which apparently uses a smaller than typical flash hole. At one time, some die's decapping pins were bigger than the 220's flash hole and handloaders were running into pressure problems as a result.
     
  23. RustyFN

    RustyFN Member

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    I have also removed thousands of crimped primers without any problems. Now removing the crimp is a little more of a PITA.
    Rusty
     
  24. Deavis

    Deavis Member

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    Sure, as long as they are an awesome driver who cares who starts the car for them. I doubt Indy Car drivers know how to get their car up and running but they sure can drive. A proper snippy answer would have been, "Use the search function"

    Pressure works too, water or air.
     
  25. snuffy

    snuffy Member

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    I don't consider my answer to be snippy, or rude. But I'm about the opposite of PC! This is hardly the place for basic instructions on the hobby of reloading. You should know a little about something before asking basic questions.
     
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