Big shout out to Kimber this afternoon: Kimber K6s Revolver

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whatnickname

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Purchased a LNIB K6s for $700 out the door. Excellent trigger and about $200 less than a new one. The maintenance section of the owner’s manual only covers how to clean the revolver. Nothing about lubrication of the lock-work so I called Kimber and spoke with “Dawn”. She had no idea what I meant by “lock-work”. We had to go to page 54 of the owner’s manual to get her to understand that the parts I was referring to were under the side plate...item no. 5 in the diagram. Long silence...”have to talk to one of my co-workers.” The answer: “We can’t contradict the manual. Since the manual doesn’t say anything about lubrication of the parts under the side plate, we have no opinion or answer to your question.” SERIOUSLY??? Good thing the diagram on page 54 had the parts numbered or I’m sure I would still be speaking with “Dawn”. As for me, I’m gonna give the parts under item 5 of the diagram a shot of Birchwood & Casey synthetic gun oil...don’t think running one dry does any good in the long run. As for “Dawn”: The manual doesn’t say anything about taking a break and going to the Ladies restroom either. Sure hope you can figure that one out on your own!
 
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A little update. Pulled the side plate, part number 5 on page 54 of the owner’s manual if “Dawn” is reading this. Pretty straight forward, remove the three side plate screws. Take the cylinder out of the frame. Give the grip frame a light rap with a half ounce brass hammer to break it lose...just like you do with a Smith & Wesson. In fact the entire design is very similar to a Smith. It does have a transfer bar that looks a little strange. Guess they borrowed that idea from Ruger...but then Ruger borrowed that idea from Iver Johnson so turn-about and all of that. Bottom line is that Kimber has used some kind of grease in the lock-work. Gonna leave things as is unless that stuff congeals over time and turns into hardened crud. Hey Dawn, if you’re reading this, the ladies restroom is the one with the stick figure of a woman in a dress on the door.
 
Sometimes I have shot some lube into the lock work around the trigger but I have never disassembled a revolver to access the lock work. I don't intend to unless someone specifically can tell me that is part of recommended practice.
 
If I can talk to a tech about a technical matter I will. Just tell the customer service person that you need to talk to a tech. Either that or send an email to the service department.
 
Whet
Did you ever consider that the customer service people answering the phone don't work for Kimber?
Whether they are employees or Kimber or not, that makes no difference. They are there because that is what Kimber set up. They represent Kimber. Recommended lubricant is a very basic and legitimate question. “We have no opinion and cannot answer that question” is completely unacceptable.
 
Guns don’t need to “lubricated” they only need a very light coat of oil to protect against corrosion. They are not reciprocating machinery. They are no parts that will wear out without oil. The steel is hardened and that provides enough lubricity to the parts to out last your great grandchildren. The reason Kimber doesn’t recommend a lubricant is 1, it doesn’t need it and 2, they don’t want people sending back a box of parts for them to put back together. I’m not insinuating you can’t reassemble your gun, I’m sure you can just think of all the people that can’t. Nowhere in my manual for any of my Smith & Wesson’s is there a section on removing the side plate and lubing anything. Plain old mineral oil will work just fine, that’s what all “gun oils” are anyway.
 
Guns don’t need to “lubricated” they only need a very light coat of oil to protect against corrosion. They are not reciprocating machinery. They are no parts that will wear out without oil. The steel is hardened and that provides enough lubricity to the parts to out last your great grandchildren. The reason Kimber doesn’t recommend a lubricant is 1, it doesn’t need it and 2, they don’t want people sending back a box of parts for them to put back together. I’m not insinuating you can’t reassemble your gun, I’m sure you can just think of all the people that can’t. Nowhere in my manual for any of my Smith & Wesson’s is there a section on removing the side plate and lubing anything. Plain old mineral oil will work just fine, that’s what all “gun oils” are anyway.
Okay then. I’ve made contact with the original owner. He bought the revolver new and never fired it. Never cleaned it. Wonder why Kimber filled the lock-work with grease? Kind of interesting???
 
Old Dallas Police armorer took brand new Model 64’s. Opened them up, timed them, tweaked them until they were perfect. (MANY weren’t back in the late 70’s early 80’s)

Cleaned all the oil, grease, metal filings etc out. And, hosed them with silicone spray, blew it dry with compressed air and reassembled them for issue.

He swore a dry lubed revolver was far more reliable than one swimming in oil or (shudder) grease in the long run.

A revolver will generally run fine dry.

Grease, mixed with dirt, cookie crumbs, dust, powder residue etc turns to glue.

Revolvers need the tiniest amount of lube on bearing surfaces and that’s it.

I, along with most old revolver guys, were certain all the parts that move needed to be slathered in the bestest, slickest grease and oil.

Since we are goobers and, obsessively clean our guns, inside and out, it worked out fine.

For a gun that isn’t owned by one of use, and, spends years in a holster in the real world...dry or almost dry is likely better.
 
Okay then. I’ve made contact with the original owner. He bought the revolver new and never fired it. Never cleaned it. Wonder why Kimber filled the lock-work with grease? Kind of interesting???

They filled it with grease for the same reasons sealed ball bearings are greased. Promote lubricity, prevent corrosion, suspend contaminants, reduce heat buildup, etc.

I will say grease is an interesting choice as it attracts contaminants.

Oh yeah and the most important part. They lubed it so you wouldn’t have to and they omitted that part from the manual for the same reason so in that regard, Dawn was right. Kimber doesn’t want their average customers to go looking for a solution to a problem they think they already fixed. Typical corporate bureaucracy.

I say do what you think is best in this matter. Kimber thinks it’s best to put some grease in there. Probably more as a “maintenance free” compromise for the average consumer.
 
Cleaned all the oil, grease, metal filings etc out. And, hosed them with silicone spray, blew it dry with compressed air and reassembled them for issue.

He swore a dry lubed revolver was far more reliable than one swimming in oil or (shudder) grease in the long run.

A revolver will generally run fine dry.

Grease, mixed with dirt, cookie crumbs, dust, powder residue etc turns to glue.

Revolvers need the tiniest amount of lube on bearing surfaces and that’s it.

This is an excellent approach to the matter.
 
It's possible Dawn was brand new to her job, and even if she wasn't I'm sure she was instructed, along with her coworker, that if a question comes up that they don't know the answer to, refer to the manual. If it isn't in the manual, do not give advice. Warranty CYA stuff. Not surprising.

Personally I never rely on a manufacturer to tell me how to maintain my guns. I just periodically do a deep cleaning and lube them up. If something feels sticky, it's time to go in.
 
They filled it with grease for the same reasons sealed ball bearings are greased. Promote lubricity, prevent corrosion, suspend contaminants, reduce heat buildup, etc.

I will say grease is an interesting choice as it attracts contaminants.

Oh yeah and the most important part. They lubed it so you wouldn’t have to and they omitted that part from the manual for the same reason so in that regard, Dawn was right. Kimber doesn’t want their average customers to go looking for a solution to a problem they think they already fixed. Typical corporate bureaucracy.

I say do what you think is best in this matter. Kimber thinks it’s best to put some grease in there. Probably more as a “maintenance free” compromise for the average consumer.
Grease wouldn’t be my choice for any handgun that was expected to see much use. Small frame 2” revolvers don’t generally fall into that category. If this stuff solidifies I will completely dissemble it and give it a thorough cleaning and apply a more appropriate oil to the lock-work.
 
"Grease, mixed with dirt, cookie crumbs, dust, powder residue etc turns to glue." We are talking police use here so that would not be cookie but donut crumbs.

Seriously need to call the manufacture to find out how to lube (or not lube) the revolvers internals ? First rodeo ?
 
Dawn (and Kimber) is correct. It is designed to run dry. The parts are hardened as to not require lubrication. All you have achieved is to create conditions where the oil will trap dirt and gum up eventually.
 
Whet

Whether they are employees or Kimber or not, that makes no difference. They are there because that is what Kimber set up. They represent Kimber. Recommended lubricant is a very basic and legitimate question. “We have no opinion and cannot answer that question” is completely unacceptable.

It's possible Dawn was brand new to her job, and even if she wasn't I'm sure she was instructed, along with her coworker, that if a question comes up that they don't know the answer to, refer to the manual. If it isn't in the manual, do not give advice. Warranty CYA stuff. Not surprising.

Personally I never rely on a manufacturer to tell me how to maintain my guns. I just periodically do a deep cleaning and lube them up. If something feels sticky, it's time to go in.

They have a computer screen in front of them. If the answer isn't in the computer they can't give you an answer. Dawn probably has never fired a gun in her life.

BTW, my sister-in-law worked in Kimber CS....before they outsourced it.
 
Never thought Kimber outsourced their customer service since it’s obvious English is their primary language.
 
I'm sticking with the factory lube in my K6s, for now. Between the high humidity here, and the condensation causing temperature fluctuations; between keeping the guns in the air conditioned house, and having it in pocket carry outside in the heat and cold, I'm a little reluctant to replace that grease with something which may not work as well, overall. If it's not your first time to BBQ, maybe you've opened up a stainless steel gun and found the (once) stainless internals all heart-breakingly covered with rust.
 
They have a computer screen in front of them. If the answer isn't in the computer they can't give you an answer. Dawn probably has never fired a gun in her life.

BTW, my sister-in-law worked in Kimber CS....before they outsourced it.
And you’re right. I doubt that Dawn has ever fired a gun in her life. She had no idea what I was talking about. This speaks poorly of someone with the prominence and stature of Kimber.
 
Never thought Kimber outsourced their customer service since it’s obvious English is their primary language.

I don't mean send it offshore. But instead contract with a company to handle it. You'd be surprised how many different companies on of those support centers deals with. Sometimes it's dozens. The people that answer the phone just read what the computer tells them.
 
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