Blackhawk experts I need some advice.

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ontarget

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I'm looking at a used NM Blackhawk in 45 Colt. My single action experiences come from C&B revolvers, several different .22 cal SAs and 2 Uberti El Patrons (357 and 45 Colt).
My question is, are there any tell tale signs of abuse caused by too many hot loads?
I know they are capable of handling higher pressure but I just don't want to buy one that someone was shooting too many nuclear loads in.
Thanks in advance.
 
Disclaimer, I am not an expert on Blackhawks, .45 Colt, or anything else for that matter. I do own a .357 Ruger Blackhawk purchased new in 1962 and a pair of Ruger Vaqueros in .45 Colt that saw about 5K rounds each in SASS competition.

Just my opinion therefore. Look at the forcing cone and see if there is evidence of wear. Look at the top strap above the forcing cone for a notch which would be evidence of flame cutting. Is there minimal movement of the cylinder front to back? Some is normal. Is there minimal movement of the cylinder when the hammer is cockedd? Some is normal. Does the revolver show any signs of abuse, such as excessive holster wear, rust or corrosion, damaged grips panels. A clue to how the previous owner cared for his firearm.

The following is just my opinion, worth what you are paying. My experience with Ruger revolvers, including a Speed Six and a Single Six in addition to those mentioned above, is that they are built tank tough. Unless the previous owner was a handloader shooting "nuclear rounds," I think it unlikely that the revolver has been damaged from use. Maybe even then.

Take a look at the Revolver Checkout thread in the stickies. Good advice.

Edit: PapaG covered these issue succinctly.
 
I read through the Revolver Check Out thread. This gun has signs of maybe being in a vise or dropped on rough concrete on the frame. What concerned me also is that the previous owner put some giant rubber grip on it like they were trying to mitigate strong recoil. I'm no expert but my 45 El Patron recoil is not excessive at all so not sure why that grip was necessary.
This is a consignment sale so I can't ask the owner. Could be he just had big hands.
 
Take the grip off and see if they are trying to hide something. Also make sure to specify you want to shoot a few rounds to see if it shoots to POA and may want to return it if it doesn’t. Dropping things isn’t usually good.
 
Howdy

This is my 45 Colt/45ACP convertible Blackhawk that I bought brand-spanky new in 1975.

One thing this photo shows is the loading gate is slightly 'plum' colored. This is quite normal with older Ruger revolvers, it is not a defect. Ruger was working on finalizing the mix of elements in their steel alloy for a while, and it took a while to get it just right. A small amount of silicon had been added as a mold release agent, and when the the amount of silicon was reduced, the 'plum' coloring went away.

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This is a close up of the line around the cylinder. Again, absolutely normal on any New Model Ruger (those with a transfer bar), not a sign of abuse. Although this would be a sign of neglect with a single action revolver with a Colt style lockwork, it is impossible to avoid a ring like this on a New Model Ruger. WIth a Colt style action, if it is timed properly, the bolt will pop up into the teardrop shaped lead to the cylinder locking notches. So a ring around the cylinder shows somebody was careless and lowered the hammer from half cock, allowing the bolt to contact the circumference of the cylinder. Any subsequent rotation of the cylinder would cause a ring. With a Ruger, the timing is different. The bolt is designed to pop up when the cylinder has rotated about halfway to the battery position. You can see the mark on the ring where the bolt first contacted the circumference of the cylinder and continued to bear against the cylinder as it continued to rotate. Again, absolutely normal with any New Model Ruger. I know guys who have complained about this, and had the revolver retimed, but it is normal with any Ruger that has not been customized.

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I was surprised to see there is no flame cutting on my old Blackhawk. A little bit of flame cutting is normal on many revolvers, not automatically a sign of abuse. This Blackhawk has never seen 'Ruger Only' loads, only standard SAAMI spec 45 Colt ammo. No, not cowboy ammo, standard off the shelf 45 Colt ammo. I'm just surprised to see there is no flame cutting seeing as it is 45 years old. Of course, it has not been fired much in the last 20 years or so. The marks we see here are tooling marks left behind when the frame was threaded to accept the barrel. The tap was probably tapered, and as the threads were cut full size, it cut a teeny bit into the top strap. Completely normal.

plpEo7Mtj.jpg








OK, let's talk about Barrel/Cylinder gap for a moment. The proper way to measure B/C gap is to insert a feeler gauge into the gap with the cylinder shoved all the way forward.

Then another measurement is taken with the cylinder shoved back as far as it will go. The measurement in the forward position is the B/C gap measurement, the difference between the two measurements is the amount of endshake (the amount the cylinder can freely slide back and forth). In his book The Ruger Single Action Revovlers A Shop Manual, Jerry Kuhnhausen states that for a Ruger the defacto standard B/C gap for revolvers set up for lead bullets is .004-.006, and for lead bullets it is about .008. That is the range of acceptable B/C gaps, not including endshake. These are not hard standards, they are a suggestion. Endshake should be 0. Kuhnhausen states that .0015 is a good standard for endshake. Much past that and recoil can cause the cylinder to 'slap' the frame and cause possible problems with the ratchet section of the cylinder pounding the frame. I am surprised how tight my old Blackhawk is, a .002 feeler gauge slips into the gap with the cylinder all the way forward, and a .004 feeler gauge slips in with the cylinder all the way back, so its endshake is about .002.






This is the rear of the frame on my old Blackhawk. Completely normal for an old revolver that has never seen any 'Ruger Only' loads.One arrow points to the area around the firing pin. This surface is slightly raised, so fired cartridges have been slamming back into it for a long time, eating away the blue. Moving clockwise, the next arrow shows wear to the blue caused by cartridges rotating past that area. The third arrow is pointing to the area of the frame around the cylinder pin hole. A little bit of scoring there, but as I said before, this revolver has never seen any 'Ruger Only' loads. If I saw the distinct impression of the ratchet teeth of the cylinder in this area, I would be concerned. That would mean a lot of heavy rounds had been fired. The fourth arrow is pointing to a partial 'halo' left behind from unfired rounds slamming back against the recoil shield as the gun recoils. Again completely normal. With revolvers that have been fired a great deal, these halos will be more pronounced, sometimes leaving behind a clear image of a primer.


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This is the frame of an old S&W K-38 from the late 1940s. The 'halos' on the frame simply indicate it has been fired a great deal over the years. You can clearly see the imprints left behind of the rim diameter as well as the primer pocket. This is just an example, it does not indicate abuse. When a revolver fires, everything jumps backwards. When the motion stops, the cartridges in the chambers continue moving back and strike the frame. The ones that are unfired still have bullets in them so they are heavier than the fired rounds. So the heavier rounds strike the frame harder. Again, this is not indicative of abuse, this old revolver has just been fired a great deal over the years. If I could read the markings stamped onto the case heads in these halos, I would be concerned.

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Just for the fun of it, this is the recoil shield of a 22 rimfire S&W K-22 that left the factory in 1932. It has been fired a great deal in all those years, leaving lots of 'halos' on the recoil shield. Not a sign of abuse, just lots of shooting over the last 88 years.

pnmX3wanj.jpg
 
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This is purely anecdotal and worth what you paid for it...

I have five SA Ruger revolvers.

One I bought NiB.

The other four I bought used. Two are from the mid or late 70's. The other two I don't recall for sure... maybe the 80's. I bought them all for cheap with damaged finishes from GB. After I examined them, it was obvious that all four had been shot a LOT.

They all lock up tight and are more accurate than I am. Ruger seems to make a tough SA revolver.

This Single Six had ruined finish and was missing an inexpensive part, so I paid almost nothing for it. I put $20 and a couple hours of elbow grease into it. It's a great shooter and will doubtless last many more decades. Here is a "before" picture:
 
I looked it over again today. No flame cutting at all, forcing cone is spotless inside and out. There isn't even burn rings on the front of the cylinder. I forgot my feeler gauges so couldn't check that but it has a very slight end shake and very slight play when locked in battery. I did the finger drag thing and each chamber locked up properly.
It also has the smoothest SA action I've ever felt. ( not that I have a lot to compare to ).

So if I can get it for $400.00 should I do it?
 
I looked it over again today. No flame cutting at all, forcing cone is spotless inside and out. There isn't even burn rings on the front of the cylinder. I forgot my feeler gauges so couldn't check that but it has a very slight end shake and very slight play when locked in battery. I did the finger drag thing and each chamber locked up properly.
It also has the smoothest SA action I've ever felt. ( not that I have a lot to compare to ).

So if I can get it for $400.00 should I do it?
Are the grips nice (I know you said they look goofy)? What's the barrel length?
 
4.62 barrel with a huge rubber grip. Grip is in perfect condition but I WILL be changing it to a standard style grip asap if I get it.

I know rubber grips are ugly but I would shoot it before switching. You just might find you like it. Sometimes pretty isn't as functional as not so pretty. I've recently gone to the big, ugly grip on my Blackhawk and find it easier to hold and therefore shoot it more accurately and I don't have large hands.
 
So if I can get it for $400.00 should I do it?

New is $557. https://www.budsgunshop.com/mobile/search.php?q=Ruger+blackhawk+45+colt++&type=

With new you have a choice of barrel length & extra 45 acp cylinder. For hunting & targets, i would want the 7.5" bbl., more so if shooting "Ruger only Loads" Its a personal choice thing.

$400 IS OK.

Hodgdon-
45 Colt: 45 Colt data is listed in two categories. The first is intended for original Colt revolvers and their replicas. Max pressure, is 14,000 CUP. The second category is 45 Colt (Ruger Blackhawk, Freedom Arms and Thompson/Center Contender/Encore handguns. Max pressure, 30,000 CUP. Do not use these data in any other make or model of firearm.
 
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go for it. both of mine were bought used. ruger fixed all the problems with those guns. also, both had a belt mountain base pin installed within a couple weeks. keep the screws tight (i finally resorted to blue loctite) and enjoy.

they are both accurate with all loads (and i shoot max loads).

luck,

murf

brain fart: i'm talking about my 357 magnum blackhawks above. my 45 cal blackhawk was bought new in april of 2000, has a belt mountain base pin and wears the rubber hogue grips (stock grips draw blood from my finger when shooting "ruger only" loads). accurate and reliable.
 
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