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bluing problems

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by tango3065, Apr 30, 2004.

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  1. tango3065

    tango3065 Member

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    I have been using oxpho-blue and finally got the gun the way I wanted it the only problem is when I oiled it the bluing came off. What am I doing wrong?
     
  2. tango3065

    tango3065 Member

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  3. Sunray

    Sunray Member

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    Did you meticulously degrease it before you put on the bluing? Any oil or grease will keep the bluing chemicals off the metal. Mineral spirits are/is good for degreasing.
     
  4. Clemson

    Clemson Member

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    The sad truth is that cold blues are fine for touch-ups, but they won't hold a candle to a dip in the hot, caustic salts bath that your gunsmith uses. Cold blues won't wear well.

    Clemson
     
  5. yankytrash

    yankytrash Member

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    You try rubbing it in with fine steel wool? Oxpho's pretty durable right out of the chute, seems odd that oiling would've rubbed it off, unless it really wasn't on in the first place...

    ..shoot, with steel wool, even minor oil left on the metal is fine.:confused:
     
  6. sherpa

    sherpa Member

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    blueing

    i had very poor results with blue wonder, just a heads up. better results on a 870 reciever with perma blue by birch wood casey.
     
  7. yankytrash

    yankytrash Member

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    Oh, wait a minute....jus thought of somethin..

    What make/model/manufacture date range is the gun? Metallurgy could be yer trouble.
     
  8. tango3065

    tango3065 Member

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    cheap cva bolt action muzzleloader
     
  9. yankytrash

    yankytrash Member

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    Could be a heavy wax and/or polishing abrasives buildup in the steel from the manufacturing process. There's a lot of variables in troubleshooting bluing problems, especially in cold blue.

    I usually begin my troubleshooting by heating the metal a little (in the oven for about 15 minutes set at "warm"), scrubbing down with acetone, cold rinse of water, and then try heating the metal up again, as above, just before applying the first "coat" of cold blue. Apply the bluing with #0000 steel wool, grinding it into the metal (there's a name for doing that, can't think of it off the top of my head).

    Make sure to "blue" the gun beyond the color you want - make it jet black, making sure to polish well in between "coats". When you think you've overdone it, do it two more times for good measure...

    You won't cheat the fact that you aren't hot bluing, and cold blue will never be as durable as a good hot bath, but you should be able to get the results you'll be satisfied with, with perseverence.

    Just remember, bluing's not easy when done right.
     
  10. P95Carry

    P95Carry Moderator Emeritus

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    Most blues (except I believe Blue Wonder, which is a sorta ''developed'' dye idea) ... is selenium based and the color will only appear if the steel is actually ''taking'' it.! However .. one coat will rarely do .... after coat #1 .... fine wire wool and degrease .... and re-apply .. keep doin it. In the end you should have a finish that, once protected by a CLP film ... Boeshield or whatever ... will be moderately durable. It will tho quickly disappear with things like holster wear .... it ain't durable like cyanide hot blue.
     
  11. Dave Sample

    Dave Sample member

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    Cold Blue is not durable. It doesn't matter what you do. I use it for quick and dirty jobs like the ends of pins, front sight serrations, sight cuts in six guns, etc. It works for areas that do not see any friction and are recessed.
     
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