Brass Juice with no ss pins

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by greywolf46, Oct 23, 2021.

  1. greywolf46

    greywolf46 Member

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    Tried cleaning 45acp brass using Brass Juice with no ss pins. Supposed to clean just as well. Apparently not, since after an hour and 45 minutes of tumbling, the primer pockets still had a little crud inside as well as the inside bottom of the cases. They were nice and shiny on the outside. Those ss pins do serve a purpose after all. So, I don't know about the claim that Brass Juice without the ss pins cleans just as well.
     
    dredd likes this.
  2. cfullgraf

    cfullgraf Member

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    Yes, the pins provide mechanical cleaning and get into the small spaces.
     
    Demi-human likes this.
  3. sevt_chevelle

    sevt_chevelle Member

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    Johnny reloading bench on you tube just did a video on this.
    Compared plain dish soap against brass juice and the cleaning packets from FA.
    Little to no difference.
    Just stick to dish soap.
     
    AK Hunter likes this.
  4. whughett

    whughett Member

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    I think it’s the citric acid that gives the shine. Plain dish soap it’s clean but not shiny.
     
  5. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    Do some testing as to whether clean pockets and spotless interiors actually influence performance, and you’ll then confirm for yourself, Brass Juice (and a dozen other cleaners) do exactly the same thing whether pins are present or not.
     
    jebova2301 likes this.
  6. greywolf46

    greywolf46 Member

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    Just as I suspected, but thought I'd try it (Brass Juice) - expensive stuff and probably not worth it. Other, less expensive options, will work just as well. Need those ss pins though if you want really clean, like-new brass.
     
    merlynski likes this.
  7. dredd

    dredd Member

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  8. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    Are you processing brass for resale?
     
  9. dredd

    dredd Member

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    If this question is for me, the answer is NO!!!! LOL

    I can't keep up with my own needs right now.
     
    stillquietvoice likes this.
  10. FROGO207

    FROGO207 Member

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    I use SS pins, a bit of citric acid, and some Dawn. Amounts depending on hardness of your water. The thing is I dislike getting the pins out.
    I use the Dillon seperator and tray. I fill the tray half full of water then put the brass in the basket. Turn slowly with the occasional back and forth motion for about a minute. This immersion seems to remove all the pins to the tray. I seldom find any pins after removing the brass from basket.
     
    cfullgraf likes this.
  11. WeekendReloader

    WeekendReloader Member

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  12. RashQuestion

    RashQuestion Member

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    I use dish soap, 9mm full of Lemi Shine, SS pins, hot water wash cycle (45min). Rinse with Armor All car wash/wax with hot water, pins and no Lemi Shine(20min). Cleans and shines well inside and out including primer pockets!!!

    I also use a salad spinner to separate pins from brass. Works well and is cheap. Good Luck with your receipt and results!
     
    packetloss likes this.
  13. dtwalters

    dtwalters Member

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    I have found that Brass Juice with stainless steel pins results in significantly cleaner, shinier brass than Brass Juice alone or the mixture of Dawn, citric acid and stainless steel pins. I like shiny brass, I cannot lie.
     
  14. packetloss

    packetloss Member

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    This is pretty much my method as well. I find the dish soap does a significantly better job than wash and wax, however, the wash and wax does keep them from tarnishing for long periods of time (more than 6 months on my last batch and no tarnish so far). So the solution required a quick rinse with just the wash and wax after they were already cleaned and rinsed. I only tumble for 5 minutes with the wash and wax but I do put a very small amount of citric acid in with it.
     
  15. packetloss

    packetloss Member

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    There is no magic to Brass Juice. It all comes down to chemistry and having a proper mixture. I use Dawn, citric acid, steel pins and a follow up with wash and wax and my cases come out looking better than new. The trick is with Citric Acid you need to get the right amount for the hardness of your water. No more, no less. For me it's 1/2 teaspoon to a 90% full Lyman Cyclone drum (basically the same size as the FART). With Dawn you want to get that right as well. It needs to be enough to suspend the dirt particles in the water, but not so much that it's completely foamed up and no water to move around.
     
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