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Brass sticking in Hornady PTX

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Shmackey, Oct 12, 2011.

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  1. Shmackey

    Shmackey Member

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    Been using the Powder Funnel for 9mm and .45ACP, but decided to set up a dedicated powder drop for 10mm. So I got the .400" PTX insert for a new CAPD die. Got it all dialed in to drop right and just barely bell. But it takes a LOT of force and a jerky motion to get the brass back down off the PTX. I assume the cone shape of the Powder Funnel prevents this. What's the fix for the Hornady PTX insert?

    I did clean it off. Seems like it's really just getting stuck.
     
  2. Shmackey

    Shmackey Member

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    I wonder if it's because I'm using brand-new brass. Never have before.
     
  3. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Is it at all polished smooth?

    If it isn't, it needs to be.

    If it has machining rings left on it, it is causing extra friction scraping brass.

    rc
     
  4. Blue68f100

    Blue68f100 Member

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    Polish is key on it working smooth as RC stated. You don't necessary need to run it all the way down either, depends on bullet base profile. But I have found a few mfg of brass, that it has a tendency to stick on. Mainly the thicker harder wall brass.
     
  5. Shmackey

    Shmackey Member

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    Hmm.... I'll polish it next time. I figured that would only make the friction worse, so I left it alone apart from degreasing it.

    The brass is new Starline 10mm auto.
     
  6. 243winxb

    243winxb Member

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    Same fix as Dillon???

    From Starline > http://www.starlinebrass.com/faqs.php Why is it very hard to get expander and powder funnel back out of case?
    There are two situations that create this problem. The first is one we have just recently identified. It seems to be associated with the dillon powder funnel and only a couple of calibers (45 Auto and 40 S&W). The land for expanding case mouth is too long and when you begin to bell mouth the bottom of expander gets into the thicker taper of case and wedges causing it to be very hard to get back out. We have modified several by increasing radius on end and slightly shortening expanding land and this eliminated the problem completely. Call Starline and we will take care of it if you wish. One other cause can be a burr at case mouth created by the final trim operation, which grabs onto expander as it comes back up. This situation does not often appear and can be fixed by deburring case mouth or inside lubing cases.
     
  7. BYJO4

    BYJO4 Member

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    I have experienced this with new brass that I trimmed before loading. I did not deburr the case mouth as well as I should have. I never have problems with once fired brass. You might also check the PTX for any rough spot. A little rubbing with very fine media will smooth it up.
     
  8. HK SD9 Tactical

    HK SD9 Tactical Member

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    Check you PTX die and make sure that it is the .400 "A" die. The A dies have been re-worked to give a better bell.

    Seems like Starline is aware of this problem and I can see how a burr would cause a rough operation and the cases to stick to the PTX die. Polish your PTX die as indicated.

    Personally the last time I bought Starline brass (500 count of .357 Magnum) I was not at all pleased with the variance in case lengths. Some of the cases are less than the minimum case length and it will be a crap shoot when it comes to both belling and roll crimping because of the variances in lengths. Then only fix that I know of is to trim all the cases to the minimum size that Starline provided, chuck a whole bunch of cases altogether, or call Starline and have them replace the short ones. Based on measurements so far, only 1 in 5 meets the minimum case length.
     
  9. Shmackey

    Shmackey Member

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    The PTX really didn't seem unpolished anywhere. So I just went ahead and dropped in the Powder Funnel instead.

    I realized it's not any slower to move the powder funnel over to the separate powder-through die that I've got adjusted down for each caliber.
     
  10. Shrinkmd

    Shrinkmd Member

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    I have had similar problems, except it occurred with mixed brass as well as Starline. I was using the Hornady powder stop, but to get enough belling for lead bullets to sit nicely would make it near impossible to push the handle back up. So I have up and went back to the Powderfunnel.

    I will look at the PTX, but what would be an appropriate abrasive to polish them? Is have flitz, or 600 grit sandpaper, or 00 or 0000 steel wool.

    Other suggestions?
     
  11. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    New Starline brass will do that. Many folks have posted such and I have experienced it myself. As rcmodel posted, polish that bad boy up like glass, and it will really make a difference.
     
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