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JohnBT and Doc are right smart fellows about that OLD BF and No 9 
Break free vs. Fp-10
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JohnBT
Member
Here you go Doc, #9 with Nitro Benzene...
www.brunoshooters.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BSS&Category_Code=39HP
I see BF at gun shows all the time and they claim it's the old stuff. It looks like the old BF I have, but who knows. I'll look around for some online later.
John
www.brunoshooters.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BSS&Category_Code=39HP
I see BF at gun shows all the time and they claim it's the old stuff. It looks like the old BF I have, but who knows. I'll look around for some online later.
John
Both will do OK for all but the most severe environments/applications.
I like CLP more due to the fact that I LIKE the smell, it brings back fond memories, and I have quite a few bottles laying around.
As to the particles...shake the bottle up a bit & there is no problem.
Ed's Red to clean
CLP to lube
CLP to protect
I like CLP more due to the fact that I LIKE the smell, it brings back fond memories, and I have quite a few bottles laying around.
As to the particles...shake the bottle up a bit & there is no problem.
Ed's Red to clean
CLP to lube
CLP to protect
George Hill
Member
Whould you be interested in an improved Ed's Red type that you can mix at home on the cheap that lubes and protects really well too?
Valkman
Member
I use FP-10 for cleaning and protecting my guns - from reading alot of threads on 1911.org about this subject I believe FP-10 is far superior than older CLP's in every regard.
George:
Sure, I'd like to know. "Cheap b@st@rdy runs very deep in my family." (paraphrase of Khalil, The Veggie Tales Movie).
My current Ed's Red is :
1 part Dexron III
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Mineral Spirits, ododless
1 part Acetone
I did not include the anhydrous lanolin, due to the fact it cost more $$$ than I was willing to spend.
Sure, I'd like to know. "Cheap b@st@rdy runs very deep in my family." (paraphrase of Khalil, The Veggie Tales Movie).
My current Ed's Red is :
1 part Dexron III
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Mineral Spirits, ododless
1 part Acetone
I did not include the anhydrous lanolin, due to the fact it cost more $$$ than I was willing to spend.
Bartholomew Roberts
Member
I just did my own informal corrosion testing of Breakfree vs. FP10. I used phosphated (parkerized) wood screws and a bare aluminium plate. Both sat outdoors for the last two weeks through over five thunderstorms and days where temp varied from about 80-90F and humidity was never under 80%.
On aluminium, the CLP was marginally better at protecting against corrosion. The CLP side took about a day longer to reach the same level of corrosion as the untreated part of the panel.
On the wood screws, none of them showed any sign of rust except the untreated control sample which showed trace rust on the threads and the edge. All of the CLP and FP10 screws also seemed to attract and hold wayward fuzz and other debris as well. No significant difference there either.
For all practical purposes I think there is no serious difference in the corrosion protection abilities of each. CLP seems to have a slight edge; but you would have to seriously abuse your weapon to notice that edge.
On aluminium, the CLP was marginally better at protecting against corrosion. The CLP side took about a day longer to reach the same level of corrosion as the untreated part of the panel.
On the wood screws, none of them showed any sign of rust except the untreated control sample which showed trace rust on the threads and the edge. All of the CLP and FP10 screws also seemed to attract and hold wayward fuzz and other debris as well. No significant difference there either.
For all practical purposes I think there is no serious difference in the corrosion protection abilities of each. CLP seems to have a slight edge; but you would have to seriously abuse your weapon to notice that edge.
The manual of my Seecamp specifically mentions and recommends Eezox and says that is what they use at the factory.
That's perfect, because I use and love Eezox too!
To answer the original question, I think you'll be just fine with any major, well-known product.
They all do pretty much the same job and all do it adequately.
Heck, our Armed Forces use Breakfree and we have the best military in the world!
I personally use Eezox. It is absolutely fantastic at cleaning and has been proven to be one of the best rust preventors on the market.
I like the way it smells too. FP-10 smells nice and works well too, but doesn't inhibit rust anything like Eezox.
www.eezox.com in case you were wondering.
kernal_panic
Member
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I'm gonna take a flaming for this bbut i don't care.
Like everyone else i got all hot and excited over "ed's red" i mixed up a gallon of it and thought WOW NEARLY FREE GUN CLEANER!
problem is compared to Breakree CLP, Hoppes Elite feild cleaner (which is just was too pricey compared to BF CLP and FP-10) and FP-10 its pure crap. I scrubbed mil surp barrels with it till they were "clean" then it them with CLP only to have BF CLP take the majority of the carbon out of the bore. I find FP-10 has the same cleaning properties and any females in the vicinity of your gun cleaning LIKE it. by the time you get a gallon of eds together you can buy a pint of fp-10 or BF clp and it will work quicker, deeper, and make clean up in the future much easier than ED's crap.
Like everyone else i got all hot and excited over "ed's red" i mixed up a gallon of it and thought WOW NEARLY FREE GUN CLEANER!
problem is compared to Breakree CLP, Hoppes Elite feild cleaner (which is just was too pricey compared to BF CLP and FP-10) and FP-10 its pure crap. I scrubbed mil surp barrels with it till they were "clean" then it them with CLP only to have BF CLP take the majority of the carbon out of the bore. I find FP-10 has the same cleaning properties and any females in the vicinity of your gun cleaning LIKE it. by the time you get a gallon of eds together you can buy a pint of fp-10 or BF clp and it will work quicker, deeper, and make clean up in the future much easier than ED's crap.
Doc
Member
John: thanks!
Can anyone shed some light as to the mysterious make up of
"EEzox"?
I went to the website, it sounds like magic...
Can anyone shed some light as to the mysterious make up of
"EEzox"?
I went to the website, it sounds like magic...
JohnBT
Member
You're welcome.
eezox is trichloroethylene - sounds like nasty stuff you wouldn't want in your bath water according to the link below, but I use it on guns and knives and it really works well.
www.phaseonewebsitedesign.com/clients/eezox.html
eezox is trichloroethylene - sounds like nasty stuff you wouldn't want in your bath water according to the link below, but I use it on guns and knives and it really works well.
www.phaseonewebsitedesign.com/clients/eezox.html
DMK
Member
DMK,
The bottle I have is put out by Shooter's Choice and it does not mention being a cleaner on the bottle. In the instruction for use it says to clean the firearm thoroughly prior to application.
I thought the two brands were the same...maybe not?
The bottle I have is put out by Shooter's Choice and it does not mention being a cleaner on the bottle. In the instruction for use it says to clean the firearm thoroughly prior to application.
I thought the two brands were the same...maybe not?
Black Snowman
Member
Hey Redhat I have the Shooter's Choice version as well. I use it only for lubrication and in that roll it seems to work great. It doesn't require shaking and as I recall from an earlier post on the subject the newer FirePower formula to not require shaking but some old packaging was still in use that said it did. Not sure if the SC and FirePower are the same thing or not. I just know my bottle was $7 so it better work good
JohnBT
Member
The two brands are the same. What's-his-name(sorry guy, drawing a blank) from FP-10 who posts about his product frequently has said that there was a way to tell the difference between the earlier formula and the new improved formula - not between SC and FP, but between the old and the new.
I think I'd better go find the info.
Okay. Here's the quote from 1911Forum by George/Mr. FP-10...
"In order to tell which one you have, just shake it up a bit and pour a bit out in a clear glass or vessal. If it is cloudy-amber, it's the older formula that did need shaking. If it is clear-amber with no cloudiness, then it is the new formula that does NOT need to be shaken at all."
Either way, it's all the same stuff, a CLP. My old Shooter's Choice FP-10 bottle says to use a good rust preventative after using, but that's only because they want to sell their rust preventative.
John
I think I'd better go find the info.
Okay. Here's the quote from 1911Forum by George/Mr. FP-10...
"In order to tell which one you have, just shake it up a bit and pour a bit out in a clear glass or vessal. If it is cloudy-amber, it's the older formula that did need shaking. If it is clear-amber with no cloudiness, then it is the new formula that does NOT need to be shaken at all."
Either way, it's all the same stuff, a CLP. My old Shooter's Choice FP-10 bottle says to use a good rust preventative after using, but that's only because they want to sell their rust preventative.
John
lycanthrope
Member
Also sold in stores.
www.fp10.com has a list of your local dealers. Mail order from Shooter's Choice is probably the most common route to purchase........
www.fp10.com has a list of your local dealers. Mail order from Shooter's Choice is probably the most common route to purchase........
George Hill
Member
Another product that I REALLY like, and use it more than BF or FP-10 is CorrosionX.
http://www.corrosionx.com/gun_use.html
I like the polar bonding properties. It works very well. Cleans pretty good, lubes as well as as the other stuff... but protects so much better than everything else it aint even funny.
http://www.corrosionx.com/gun_use.html
I like the polar bonding properties. It works very well. Cleans pretty good, lubes as well as as the other stuff... but protects so much better than everything else it aint even funny.
stevelyn
Member
For cleaning I'm sold on MPro-7. For lubing and rust protection I use Break-Free CLP. On parts that need grease, I've been using Brownell's Action Lube Plus a moly based grease.
I've also used Tetra Gun products and been generally satisfied them.
I finished testing some Militec-1 recently. It lubricates just fine, but it's a sorry rust preventive. Not recommended for a marine environment.
I've also used Tetra Gun products and been generally satisfied them.
I finished testing some Militec-1 recently. It lubricates just fine, but it's a sorry rust preventive. Not recommended for a marine environment.
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