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Breaking in PT92FS; cleaning question.

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Shinbone, Jun 6, 2011.

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  1. Shinbone

    Shinbone Member

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    I'm breaking in a new stainless Taurus PT92FS. No problems. It works fine. I'm working on cleaning out the barrel. I've been using MBC smallball and there has been very little leading. But right at the chamber end of the barrel, it appears that there is some lead build up that I can't clear out right where the lands start. I've been using Hoppes #9 with a cleaning rod and patches. I've also used a snake a few times.
    Should I let it soak for a period of time? Or try maybe a different type of cleaning solvent?
    Thanks.
     
  2. BCRider

    BCRider Member

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    Bore brush. It really gets the lead out. A nice soak of Hoppes or some other solvent is good to get under any buildup but you'll likely find that it requires a bore brush to make it bust loose and come out.

    Bore brushes are brass wire. You're not going to do anything to the barrel with a brush. After all the barrels typically would see many thousands of rounds of copper or brass jacketed bullets flying down there over their life span. A brush isn't going to do anything more than what one or two bullets would do.
     
  3. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    There really is no such thing as lead solvent.

    Just buy a bronze bore brush or six as BCRider suggested.

    There is no other substitute for bore cleaning, including bore-snakes and cotton patches.

    You use them after you have already used a bore brush to knock the lead out.

    rc
     
  4. Shinbone

    Shinbone Member

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    Sorry I didn't mention that, but I have used a bore brush also. Maybe I need to run it through several more times. I've always had a hard time getting the lead out, so to speak.
     
  5. BCRider

    BCRider Member

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    Some deposits do really grab on. I've been using the Ed's Red recipe for much of my cleaning. The acetone (actually I subbed in lacquer thinner which is mostly acetone and other similar solvents) seems to wick under the lead initially and then the kerosene and mineral spirits finishes the job along with the light ATF oil. You can swab it in and leave it overnight to help break the bond without it evaporating like Hoppes does. And best of all it's silly cheap to make up a gallon of the stuff. It'll still need a number of passes with the bore brush but it SHOULD come out and then you can patch the barrel to clean away the surface.
     
  6. rhodco

    rhodco Member

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    I usually take the barrel and drop it into my bottle of Hoppe's #9 to soak while I'm cleaning the rest of the parts. After all else is done, I take out the barrel and clean it last. Giving it about 20-30 minutes to soak makes it much easier to clean. Run a couple of wet patches through, run the brass brush through about ten times, run another couple of wet patches through, then run a couple of dry ones.

    At this point you could probably quit, but I like to brush it and mop it again to be sure. Probably not necessary. I just like to be thorough... if you're going to take the time to clean it, you might as well do it right.
     
  7. Shinbone

    Shinbone Member

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    My feelings exactly.
     
  8. gdesloge

    gdesloge Member

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    Do Kroil or Knock-Er-Loose work well for lead (with a bore brush)?

    Thanks -

    gd
     
  9. ArchAngelCD

    ArchAngelCD Member

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    I have found a good copper cleaner will remove lead too. In most cases copper cleaners work by getting under the copper and loosening it. The cleaner doesn't care what metal it's getting under and does the same with lead.

    Soak a patch with copper cleaner, run it through the bore and let it soak in the barrel for a hour or two. Then use a bore brush and you should be clean as new. In cases of very bad leading leave it sit over night.
     
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