Broken brand new 10/22 worth fixing, or throw away?

[D.B. Cooper]

So I bought a POS 10/22 for my son in June. He sot the local youth league with it, and I just started the adult rifle/pistol league with it. It has less than two bricks of ammo through it.

In last week's league shoot, it started locking up. It would fire, fire, fire, not fire. Cycle the bolt, fire, not fire, cycle again, fire, not fire. Finally, the thing jammed up so bad, I couldn't get the mag in or out. The RO called it a safety issue about 10 seconds before I was going to say it myself, and that was that.

Stripped the gun, found nothing obviously wrong. Cleaned the heck out of it and put a drop of CLP in the receiver anywhere metal slides on metal. Now the darn thing won't function at all.

I pull the bolt back and it locks back and won't release. Does it every single time. The only way to get the bolt to release is to drop the magazine, and, using my index finger, press on a little metal tab that rides just next to the hammer. The gun is, essentially, totally inoperative/unuseable.

Here is my dilemma: It's beyond my skill set. (Most gunsmithing is.) An FFL is going to charge me at least $25 to ship it and $25 to receive it plus the shipping charges to send it back to Ruger for repair. (So...probably about $100 total.) If I take it to a gunsmith to repair, he's going to charge me $80/hr. The POS only cost $250. I'm seriously wondering if I should throw anymore money into this gun. Should I just cut my losses at the purchase price + the cost of the tek sights?

 

[someguy2800]

If you call ruger they will be able to send you a shipping label to have fedex pick it up from your house, and deliver it back to you when done. It does not need to go through an FFL because there is no transfer of ownership.

 

[Spats McGee]

I would call Ruger and ask for a shipping label, as mentioned above. It may only be a $250 rifle, but I'd sure hate for it to be a completely wasted $250. I'm also sorry to hear about this.

 

[LoonWulf]

^ yep call Ruger

It sounds to me like there's an issue with the trigger group.
if you are inclined to keep tinkering with it and would like some help, some pictures might help us diagnose what's wrong with it.

 

[CraigC]

Call Ruger, they'll make it right and it won't cost you a dime..

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

^^^What all those guys said^^^

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Okay. I'll call them on Monday. I've just never had anything but problems trying to ship a gun (and have never been able to do it successfully).

 

[Riomouse911]

Piece of cake dealing with Ruger. They'll send you a shipping label, you head to UPS and away it goes. I sent back an abused, rust-covered MkI (Looked like it was partially submerged at one point) and a MkII with a loose grip frame. Both came right back to my office, all cleaned up inside and out with new springs where needed.

Good luck with the 10-22. Mine was bought new in 1985 and still chugs along. I dropped in the BX trigger system about a month ago and it dropped the trigger pull weight immensely.

Stay safe!

 

[Garandimal]

Sent a relatively new Super Single-Six that was having timing issues back to the mother ship just the other wk.

Came back in Ten(10) days w/ a new hammer and a trigger job ta boot, Gratis!

Ruger C/S is the Gold Std.




GR

 

[wally]

^ yep call Ruger

It sounds to me like there's an issue with the trigger group.
if you are inclined to keep tinkering with it and would like some help, some pictures might help us diagnose what's wrong with it.

I seem to recall there is a pin in the trigger group that causes issues if its not inserted fully, normally factory stocks retain it (can't re-assemble if its not in all the way), but some after market stocks don't always retain it properly.

 

[Wishoot]

Ruger will make it right.

 

[George P]

Just make sure you box/pack it well, especially the barrel end so it does not go through the end of the box. Ruger will take care of you as mentioned above.

 

[BSA1]

My biggest problem with shipping a long gun is finding a long enough box.

Put your Ruger in the original box and pack it inside another box with packing material, newspaper, foam peanuts, whatever, and tape it shut good. Put the Ruger provided shipping label on the outside and drop it off at the nearest shipping hub.

But if you are determined to throw it away I will pay for the shipping and ffl fees to send it to me.

 

[George P]

Go to your local gun store for a box or order online from a few different sites that sell rifle boxes.

 

[Bama59]

I would help if wasn't other side of the country , I've had mine apart couple times. You could order an O.E or BX trigger E Bay and see how it does, also have another trigger for comparison .

 

[HB]

I see no reason to go through an ffl to ship it either? Unless your state law forces you too.

 

[entropy]

When you get it back from Ruger, install this:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/928688102/volquartsen-automatic-bolt-release-ruger-10-22
You'll be glad you did. Never understood why Ruger doesn't just make it a factory part.
This is nice, too:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/745173/ruger-extended-magazine-release-ruger-10-22-polymer-black

 

[Skylerbone]

I don’t mean to suggest you don’t know, but first, the tab located near the trigger guard is both the lock and release for the bolt. Second, the bolt does not lock back on empty, the lock must be rocked into position for that. Third, the bolt does not release automatically, again, the bolt release must be rocked into position for that unless you purchase an auto-release version or modify the existing one. Fourth, if you start with a closed bolt and attempt to load a magazine you can have a real fight on your hands.

I would suggest removing the magazine and checking the chamber to verify empty. Next pull back the bolt using the charging handle several times to ensure it functions smoothly. Now practice manipulating the lock/release with your left index finger while using your right index finger and thumb to pull back the charging handle. Now reverse the process to release the bolt. Continue until it becomes easy and committed to memory.

If none of this works and the malfunction is mid-magazine (you don’t have full details on the malfunction) then I would suggest investing in a second magazine to try. If that solves it, google the how on the mag. dissassembly and tighten the spring 1 revolution.

 

[MistWolf]

I have never had a problem inserting a fully loaded 10/22 mag on a closed bolt. In fact, it was SOP when rabbit hunting. After firing a few shots, I'd swap the partially empty mag for a full loaded mag and top off the partial mag before putting it in my pocket.

 

[MedWheeler]

Skylerbone writes:

Fourth, if you start with a closed bolt and attempt to load a magazine you can have a real fight on your hands.

I've had my 10/22 since 1986, and I'm not sure I've ever inserted a magazine, loaded or not, into it with the bolt open. In fact, the Ruger-Tapco 10/22 leaning bedside had a BX-25 in it, fully-loaded, on a closed bolt. It went in fine. They always have.

Your first, second, and third points make sense, though.

 

[highlander 5]

If the OP can't get a box from an ffl they can buy one from Ruger or if they have a Container Store near them they have boxes that will work as well.

 

[FL-NC]

Call Ruger. Great customer service- they will figure a way to make this right.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

So. Because someone here suggested I keep working with it, and someone else mentioned pins....

I took it apart again, looked the pins over, and reassembled it. I can get it to load, cycle, and eject snap-caps pulling the bolt by hand. It will be a week before I can get it to a range to function test it.

 

[Spats McGee]

Okay. I'll call them on Monday. I've just never had anything but problems trying to ship a gun (and have never been able to do it successfully).

Could your location (AK) have anything to do with that?

Fourth, if you start with a closed bolt and attempt to load a magazine you can have a real fight on your hands.

That's never been a problem with my 10/22.

So. Because someone here suggested I keep working with it, and someone else mentioned pins....

I took it apart again, looked the pins over, and reassembled it. I can get it to load, cycle, and eject snap-caps pulling the bolt by hand. It will be a week before I can get it to a range to function test it.

Here's hoping you got the problem solved.

 

[fpgt72]

Simple, use it as a tomato stake and get yourself a model 60




I will be hiding somewhere.