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Bullet coating part II

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by jmorris, Apr 19, 2013.

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  1. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    After going through the powder coating process and giving copper plating a try, after USPS lost the first shipment, I finally received a new batch of the Bayou bullet coating from Donnie, that he FedExed to me.

    What you get is a two part mix and you add acetone, tumble and bake.

    I just ran a small batch of 150, 230 grain 45's for the first run.

    I mixed 5ml of the color, 5 ml of acetone and 1 ml of the catalyst. Adding about 1 tea spoon to the tumbling bullets and baking at 365 for 10 min. Let them cool and re tumbled them with another tea spoon of the mix and baking for another 10 min.

    The tumbler I built is a paint bucket I found at home depot that is sort of D shaped, figured this would work for agitation, and uses disposable liners that are cheap so I don't have to worry about clean up.

    I smashed the one at the center of the photo to see how well it stuck to the bullet and there were no signs of separation. Next test is to load them up and see about smoke and leading.



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  2. GT1

    GT1 Member

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    Looks great. :)


    I have a box of 9mm and .45 from Donnie, I've yet to load them but I expect good results.
     
  3. gamestalker

    gamestalker member

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    Those look really good! I've been contemplating giving this a try for a while now, and I think you just helped me get past the thinking stage. Do you know if there is a way to get a think plate, that is more in line with the TP bullets that handle jacketed data using this process?
    GS
     
  4. 2@low8

    2@low8 Member

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    Approximately how many bullets (i.e., 200gr .45s) will a liter plus the catalyst coat?
     
  5. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    I guess you could make it as thick as you wanted, just take longer and use more of the product.

    Applied per the instructions there is supposed to be enough to coat 20,000 bullets, costs $100. So the 150 above cost $0.75 to coat (+ the acetone and electricity).
     
  6. 2@low8

    2@low8 Member

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    jmorris - Thank you for your response. Thanks also for the time and effort you took to share your procedure.

    Do you think that the coating would stay intact going through a bullet sizer? I specifically have a Lee cast bullet sizer in mind.
     
  7. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    I would imagine that it would judging how it stayed together when I hit the center one with a hammer (in the last photo of the first post).

    I just ran another "test", placing a coated bullet beside an uncoated one on an aluminum plate and heated the bottom with a torch.

    Once the uncoated one started to melt, I removed the heat and it continued to melt (you can still see the stripes left from sizing though.

    The coating is thin where the grease ring is and some lead leaked out from there but the bottom is still intact.
     

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  8. blarby

    blarby Member

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    And I think that test tells you everything you need to know about durability.

    Look at that.
     
  9. 2@low8

    2@low8 Member

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    jmorris - Very impressive test.

    Another question, just because this is my first exposure to this coating: Since it can contain molten lead (except where the coating may have been thinner around the crimping grove) would it be hard enough to cause even more wear in the barrel than lead or copper?
     
  10. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    Chronograph testing might show more or less friction. Simple answer is that I don't know but if it were very hard I would expect it to fracture when deformed (have to recognize there is a difference between abrasive and "hard" too) An MSDS sheet might give more information but I don't have that either.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
  11. blarby

    blarby Member

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    It would be very hard to create more friction than metal on metal contact at 800 plus feet per second. ANY small molecule is going to act as more of a lubricant than anything else. Pressure may change due to an increase in diameter, however small.... but i dont believe friction is going to be a problem. With a polymer coating, my $5 says pressure will go down.
     
  12. Kokosheck

    Kokosheck Member

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    I'm impressed!
     
  13. ljnowell

    ljnowell Member

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    Very cool stuff, I wish it were a little cheaper, I would like to try it.
     
  14. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    I finally got around to shooting and recovering one of them. I had already sized all of the bullets I had on hand and Donnie suggests sizing them after coating and I didn't take the time to run them through the sizer again.

    At first I was a little disappointed to see where the coating was removed by the rifling. So I decided to load up some Precision Bullets, that I have shot tens of thousands of and have been happy with for a decade.

    I was surprised to see that the bullets I had coated held up better than the Precision coating.

    I am going to load up a few hundred and shoot them in the match this weekend and take before and after photos of the barrel.
     

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  15. hang fire

    hang fire Member

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  16. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    Yes, that is where the coating comes from and castboolits is where I got the idea from.
     
  17. Thompsoncustom

    Thompsoncustom Member

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    so far in your testing are these bullets leading at all?
     
  18. Silverado6x6

    Silverado6x6 Member

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    Urethane clear coat, hardener, moly paste or powder, maybe add some very very fine gold pigment.

    my guess of what i would conjure up, I have a surplus of all of such chemicals almost free, leftover stuff from work. The moly I have on the side for a special grease I make for certain applications, the clearcoat paint from commercial heavy equipment painting and the gold pigment from a small hobby store bottle that sat on a shelf for years and all the pigment settled on the bottom.

    i also have cerakote paint as well, a bit harder of an epoxy finish.
     
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