Bullet drop at 100 meters .22LR

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I thought I kinda understood this thread but why, when looking at the flight of a .22lr from 12.5 to 66 yards would you want to sight in for zero at 25 yards and not 59? I might have missed something??

http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56146&highlight=trajectory

http://www.gunsmoke.com/guns/1022/22ballistics.html

The bullet starts off 1.5" below the line of sight or your scope height, if the scope is 1.5" above the center line of the rifle bore then at about 12 yards, the bullet crosses into the bottom of a 1" target circle, and at 25 yards is .2" above the circle center. When the bullet reaches 40 yards it is at the top of the 1" circle, and at about 67 yards the bullet falls out the bottom of the circle. At 100 yards, the bullet is about 4 3/4" low using 40gr 1260 fsp .22lr . Yes chamber tightness and ammo makes a difference . Surprising how much difference there is in a 59 yard zero with 1260 fps and 1740 fps ammo.
 
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Nearly 50 years ago, my friend and I did a lot of shooting of 22LR at targets and game, and we learned that with the hi-velocity ammo of the day, mostly Remingtons, 1 inch high at 50yds, using the 3/4" tube scopes, would give a 75yd zero. It will still work today with the 1250fps versions available.
In spite of what information is tossed around about shooting a 22 LR to 100yds, it's much better sighted to 75yds in a hunting rifle, due to the mid-range trajectory differences.



NCsmitty
 
Its actually a 25 meter zero:)
The reason I sight in at such a short distance is because its firstly very practical for me. Its quick and easy to confirm your zero.
And secondly because most of my shooting is done from 20 meters to 30 meters as I'm shooting from a hide. That means its always a perfect headshot.
Its only recently that I was allowed by the farmer to shoot at a different spot as well. Now I need to extend my ranges., hence the need to make my own trajectory table. I feel if you know the range and can compensate for it by dailing in, and have the time for it. Then it does not matter at what range you are zero'd in, or even what speed ammo you are using. As long as you know what it does at what distance. You will have to compensate for drop no matter what range you have chosen to sight in. Whether its 25, 35, 45 or 75 meters. At this moment 25 meters is the best for me. I still shoot a lot from that hide where the distances are at most 30 meters.
I hope I make more sense now? I will have to spend some more time at the range though as I thought about making a trajectory table for my combo from 40 meters to 100 meters with 10 meter increments.
I just need to get a better scope
I started another thread ''help me find the perfect scope for my .22LR''. But from yesterday my mind has changed on what my requirements are. I will update that thread.
 
NCSmitty. I think that is why my friend had me zero my Ruger 10-22 (project for today is to put in Volquartzson target hammer and slide release) to be 1" high at 50 yards. His rationale was that the 1" would be more like 1.5" at 25 yards or less (easy to deal with), and would be several inches low at 100 yards. What he did not say, and what you did, was that somewhere between 50 and 100 yards it would zero. He also stated repeatedly that 100 yards is a bit beyond the normal max range for using a .22. Totally do-able, but the drop gets significant. Using this zero (1" high at 50 yards) allows me to hit what I shoot at with my low-power scope using minor changes in where I aim. We'll see how this works out in practice.
 
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