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bullet weight

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by lovig214, Nov 28, 2010.

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  1. lovig214

    lovig214 Member

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    I'm some what new to reloading. I am reloading primarily 9mm. Most of the factory ammo is 115. I see some folks loading 124. What is the main difference in the weights both for reloading and preformance. Is there an advantage of one or the other?
     
  2. esheato

    esheato Member

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    Difference in weight translates to length as the bullet can only be so wide. The heavier the bullet, the longer it is...the more precious case space it takes up too. Not a big deal on some cases, definitely a concern with the 9mm.

    Additionally, you have a trade off between heavy and slow or slower and light and fast. Bullets that are heavy have a lower max velocity but offer more penetration and vice versa for the light bullets.

    Lastly, you must consider bullet construction. If you put a low weight but lightly constructed bullet at high velocity, it's gonna blow up when it hits anything.

    Bonded bullets (say Speer Gold Dots) are more sturdily constructed and will typically penetrate deeper, especially in the heavier weights.

    It's a huge balancing act...you need to decide what performance factors are important to you.

    Loading 9mm plinking ammo, I prefer 115s as that is what most reloading stores around here carry. If they had 124s I wouldn't mind.

    On the other hand, sometimes you adjust bullet weight to meet competition chrono regulations....for example in IDPA, your load needs to meet a specific "power factor" to be legal. Power factor is bullet weight x velocity. To shoot major category, you need 165,000.

    .45 ACP
    200 grain bullet x 825 fps = 165,000
    230 grain bullet x 720 fps = 165,500

    As you can see, it makes a difference...recoil will be different too. Alloy framed guns may recoil a bit more than you prefer with the 230, but the 200s are tolerable....so your velocity requirement will change.

    For defense, I like the Speer Gold Dots 124+P.

    I never shoot really heavy or really light in pistol bullets...rifles are a different story.

    BTW, welcome to THR.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2010
  3. lovig214

    lovig214 Member

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    Thanks BTW That clears things up. I am reloading for plinking. I see a lot of the folks on this site use berry bullets do you know the best online place to purchase them.
     
  4. esheato

    esheato Member

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    I don't buy Berry's as I can get cast bullets locally for a decent price...I'm sure someone will be along shortly with a link.

    If you're willing to switch to cast bullets (and there's no reason you shouldn't), Missouri Bullet Company is very friendly to THR people.
     
  5. lovig214

    lovig214 Member

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    If i use cast bullets i will need to use a lube is that correct and if so how do you use it and is it a pain?
     
  6. esheato

    esheato Member

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    If you cast the bullets yourself, you would need to lube them.

    If you buy them pre-cast, then no, you load them like normal...well, reduce the load from the manual a bit first.

    Leading, when it occurs, isn't a problem to remove with the right tools. I shoot cast bullets in 9mm, 38 Spl, 40, 45, 45 Colt, and 45-70.

    Take a look at MBC.

    I have a feeling you'll be pleasantly surprised.
     
  7. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    Nearly all commercial cast bullets come with lube in the grooves. Load them up.

    On your first question, George Luger used 124 grain (actually 123.5 grains = 8 grams) in 1903. A 115 grain bullet uses less lead and costs a little less, which mounts up over millions of rounds.
     
  8. lovig214

    lovig214 Member

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    Thanks guys I am going to look at that site tonight. I am in need of some bullets now anyway. I went to our gunshow this weekend to pick up some bullets but didn't see any thing I liked and a little pricie.
     
  9. esheato

    esheato Member

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    One last thing...what gun are you shooting? If it has polygonal rifling (Glocks, HKs mostly), they warn against shooting cast bullets.

    They can foul pretty severe and cause problems.
     
  10. 1SOW

    1SOW Member

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    Some say the 124gr is more accurate than the 115gr.

    I don't know that the 124gr is more accurate, but I do know it's easier to shoot accurately. The felt recoil and muzzle flip will be lighter with the 124gr.

    The 124gr will cost a few dollars more/1000.
     
  11. 918v

    918v Member

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    You should try all three weights to see what your gun prefers. My 9mm prefers 147gr JHP over anything else.
     
  12. GLOOB

    GLOOB Member

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    I wouldn't say there's no reason not to shoot cast. I tried some the other week, and boy did they smoke. I was using hard cast 94 gr bullets over 3.5 grains of W231 in a makarov. The main reason I wanted to reload for that caliber was to be able to shoot at an indoor range, but there's just too much smoke. Now I have 500 of these bullets that I would only shoot outdoors. The problem there is the brass is time consuming to make and I don't want to lose that much of it, and if I'm shooting outdoors I can just use the cheap steel stuff. :banghead:
     
  13. billybob44

    billybob44 Member

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    ^^^+1 Let us know what firearm you will be shooting these 9's in. Different guns like different bullets and overall lengths. My CZ-75 loves the MBC 125gr. "Small Ball", but must be seated a little deeper into the case, due to the short chamber design of the CZ's. Again what are you going to shoot these loads in??
     
  14. lovig214

    lovig214 Member

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    Im shooting the smith and wesson 9mm mp with the 4.25 barrel. When the barrel leads how do you clean it and how do you know when it needs cleaned?
     
  15. cheygriz

    cheygriz Member

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    For plinking and practice, I like Remington or Winchester 115 GR FMJ (ball) type bullets. If you work with a decent dealer, you can probably get a case of 2,000 for almost the same price as cast lead bullets and avoid the hassle.
     
  16. lovig214

    lovig214 Member

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    I was reading a thread about over all length and it said to drop the bullet you are going to use and then slide a case over the bullet that has been shot but not resized then remove it and measure it and then reduce the length by about .020. I did this but what has me puzzled is that the oal that it will except is much longer then the max oal that any data gives. Can you guys shed some light on this. Thanks Craig
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2010
  17. RustyFN

    RustyFN Member

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  18. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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  19. RustyFN

    RustyFN Member

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    I always forget about them. I'm going to have to add them to my favorites.
     
  20. 1SOW

    1SOW Member

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    Zero hasn't produced any 125JHPs for some time. I hope my 3+month old order with 'Roze' will come home soon. Everyone I've checked has 'out of stock'.
     
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