1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Bullseye loads, 200gn mold differences/accuracy?

Discussion in 'Competition Shooting' started by JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone, May 22, 2007.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone

    JackOfAllTradesMasterAtNone Member

    Feb 12, 2005
    Lynden, WA
    I know I could have put this in the Reloading forum, but I want to target the 'Bullseye' audience.

    I'm using a Lyman 452460 (200gn swc, 3.9gns of Bullseye, seated just out to enhance feed/function), since I can't seem to find an H&G #68 at a reasonable price.

    I had a Lee 200gn SWC mold and couldn't wring acceptable accuracy out of them.

    Now, my Lyman 4gang mold is doing much better than the Lee bullets, but I haven't yet duplicated the accuracy my friend can from his H&G 185's or 200's.

    I've got some Ransom Rest time coming this summer!

    What is the trick to getting the Lyman mold bullets to be consistantly accurate? What is so different about the H&G design? Does anyone use Saeco or RCBS molded bullets will success in Bullseye?

  2. Paul "Fitz" Jones

    Paul "Fitz" Jones Moderator - Emeritus

    Dec 26, 2002
    Northern Calif
    I several decades ago I made the most beautiful 4 cavity 068 200gr swc molds with patterned gunstock walnut handles favored by Bullseye High Masters because they cast the most identical weight bullets from tire weights that I designed them to use.

    Quality is expensive and you get what you pay for.
  3. GooseGestapo

    GooseGestapo Member

    Jan 6, 2003
    I've actually gotten quite good accuracy from my Lee copy of the #68. I've got both a 2-cavity and 6-cavity mould and accuracy is identical.

    I suggest you try some variations on the alloy,(I've found that adding some 95/5% lead-free solder greatly improves the castability of the w/w.), and re-prep the Lee mould.

    I've found that it's easy to get too much soot on the aluminum moulds and this seriously affects the accuracy. The bullets are out-of-round and hence out of balance.....

    Just a very thin coat is preferable.

    I size in a Lee sizer die to .452" -I lube them with Lee liquid alox. The reason for sizing is so that the .4525-.453" bullets don't cause resistance to the loaded round feeding and chambering as I'm shooting them in PPC where speed is added to the accuracy equation.

    I use both the 3.9-4.0gr Bullseye load, but prefer the 3.5gr of Clays in this instance.
  4. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

    Dec 24, 2002
    I'd try to figure out a way to keep bullets from the cavities separate and see if that helped.
  5. saltydog452

    saltydog452 Member

    Aug 1, 2004
    i can't give you an answer to your question, but i can offer an obversation.

    getting repeatedly good bullets to drop from your moulds has a lot to do with casting technique. do you run more than one mould...do you return the sprue back to the pot after each dump...do you pre-heat the ingots before placing them in the casting pot...bottom pour or ladle...lots of stuff.

    i could not get my bottom pour pot to play nice with two h and g moulds, numbers 78 and 130. what finally resolkved the issue was to use the bottom pour pot to feed the ingot mould so that i was getting pre-heated ingots to place in an open top casting pot and using a dipper to fill the moulds from the casting pot.

    there is a rhythm involved also. using a fan helped, not only with the smoke from the flux, but let me settle into a consistent speed.

    for me at least, casting repeatable good bullets was a lot of trial and error. it wasn't like filling a glass of water from the tap. consistent casting of match quality bullets was kinda similar to working up accurate loads for your bolt gun or learning to use a ransom rest.

    i hope you take these comments in the spirit that they were intended and they were definitely not intended to be critical. dumping consistent match grade bullets is a large can of worms with lots of variables. start with technique and then work on the variables one at a time.



    ps...didja know that, if you you have a star lubricator and sizer , you can/could rig it up to use bicycle pedals rather than the handle.

    probabally not worth the effort for the hobbyist, but i've seen it done.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page