Bullseye Pistol: Training tips thread

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"Basically it gets the MSH off the fleshy parts of your hand."


I think that is the best way to describe it. It definitely changes the angle of MSH, rotating it out towards your wrist. It allows me to wrap more of my fingers around the grip and puts my trigger finger much further in. I'm also trying to focus on the pressure being applied to the front and rear of the grip....very little on the sides. I can tell when I get it right because my "area of motion" decreases. :)
 
I'm also trying to focus on the pressure being applied to the front and rear of the grip....very little on the sides.
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Yep.

The other benefit I noticed was that it seems like once you establish the grip, it "stays put" rather well. I can rest the pistol on the bench during slow fire and almost (but not quite) relax my hand. When I'm ready, I firm up the grip, the wrist and the elbow, raise my arm and the sights are right in line.
 
+1

And since an air pistol is pushing the pellet so slowly (as low as 300 fps for 7.9gr .177's), basics become critical, especially follow through. Helps me a lot.

-Paul
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Must... not... argue...! :banghead::evil::evil::evil:
 
I'm just wading into bullseye and have been reading all I can. I have what is probably a silly question.

When shooting the slow fire and bringing the gun up off the bench to obtain sight picture, do you usually attempt to raise the gun to your point of aim and stop cold right at that point of aim, or do you raise the gun slightly above the intended point of aim and let it settle down into the point of aim?

If that made any sense...

I ask because I've tried it both ways and it feels much more natural to go just slightly above where I really want it and then let come back down to the spot.

Thanks
 
^^^

When shooting the slow fire and bringing the gun up off the bench to obtain sight picture, do you usually attempt to raise the gun to your point of aim and stop cold right at that point of aim, or do you raise the gun slightly above the intended point of aim and let it settle down into the point of aim?
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With me it depends on what I am shooting, if I am shooting with my dot then I do start slightly above my target and settle down into it, because I can still see the target. When I am shooting open sights I tend to do the opposite, but then again maybe that's why I shoot my .45 like $#!%. With rimfire I shoot respectable, but you put that .45 in my hand and Ray Charles could probably shoot better!

Toby
 
I'm a newb as well....but right now I go above the target and then try and settle into it. I know some of the guys who are better come from the top down and fire right when the picture is good......they "pre-load" the trigger and increase the pressure on the way down.
 
What targets for practice?

I was wondering if some of you folks could share what type of targets you use for practice sessions and how you use them? I need to order some bulk targets and am wondering what are the best type to get. My range requires "21x24" "bullseye type targets" and they are used at 25 and 50 yards. Target stands are non-turning and have no backing, they are just a 2x4 frame that the four corners of the target are stapled to.

What target style/number do you use, B8 or other?

For practice do you use regular paper targets or the "tag" or heavy paper targets like I assume are used in regulation matches? I'm trying to do this as economical as possible and I see you can get targets online like this:
B8 paper = 500 for $21
B8 Tag paper = 250 for $44.25

The tag are nice because they are more robust than the regular paper but they are of course more expensive.

Which brings me to my next question and that is what is your method when using said targets. Do you use "replacement centers"? If so how do you fasten them to the target? Would replacement centers work on the thin paper targets or just the heavy paper targets? Remember, our target stands have no backing, and supposedly we are not supposed to put any backing on them when using them.

Thanks
 
Sorry, can't help you there....my club provides the targets. So far I have just been shooting the regulation 50ft indoor targets. That is probably where I'll get most of my practice.....indoors.
 
At 25 yards, I use the timed fire/rapid fire repair center for practice (not tag board) and the 25 yard reduced slow fire target (tag board). Can't tell you the numbers cause I'm not home right now. For 50 yard slowfire, I use the std full size slow fire target or I'll staple up a sheet of butcher paper and use a 50 yard repair center, which seems to work okay and is less expensive.

The repair centers seem to work at 25 yards, since I'm able to keep all my shots on the repair center. Back in the day, when I was first starting out, the Navy was paying for the targets and we would use the full size target at 25 yards and boy, did I need the full size target to see all my hits.

I usually buy my targets from Gil Hebard; pretty good prices and CHEAP shipping.
 
I was struggling with the .45 today at the range. My recoil was different on virtually every shot in timed fire. I had a 93-3x.

I made a mental visualization of my gun being an extension of my arm.

After I followed this visualization technique, my recoil was very consistent. I shot a 99 7 X!
 
At 25 yards, I use the timed fire/rapid fire repair center for practice (not tag board) and the 25 yard reduced slow fire target (tag board). Can't tell you the numbers cause I'm not home right now. For 50 yard slowfire, I use the std full size slow fire target or I'll staple up a sheet of butcher paper and use a 50 yard repair center, which seems to work okay and is less expensive.
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Thanks, how do you fasten the repair centers? Staple? Do your target holders have backing support behind the target?
 
Wayne02 re: targets

The range here in Graham is a little primitive. They have OSB sheets set up on the 25 yard pistol range and the 50 yard sight-in range, so I use staples. On the 25 yard pistol range, the OSB is actually set up at 27 yards. I made a target stand with some 1x2 lumber, PVC pipe for support stands and cardboard. I set it up before a match just to check things out and make sure the guns are sighted in. For regular practice , I shoot at the 27 yard line. If it get a chance this week, I'll take some photos and post them for you.

I'm up in Amarillo for the Texas State Indoor match, by the way. Didn't do that well individually, but we had three teams; one from Texas (me and 3 others), a team from Colorado and one from Oklahoma. We took second in all three team matches, just behind the Colorado team. Not too bad since we had an Expert team and they had a Master. I had a 98 on the TF stage in the CF team match....woo hoo.
 
I sometimes use a 50 foot Timed/rapid fire target at 25 yards to force myself to focus on a smaller hold.

I had a friend struggling with slowfire at 50 feet use an air pistol target instead. He was averaging around 75-85 in slowfire and when he took the AP target and overlayed it with the regular target he would have had an 85.

So the reduced target is a very good tool to force a tighter hold.
 
BTW: I am very pleased to see this thread get some attention. Many people of all experience and skill levels have something to add. Keep it up!
 
Thanks for the replies on the targets, I think the slow fire is a B8, or maybe the NRA slow fire at 25 yards is the B16? I can never remember this stuff.

At my range you cannot setup any other target stands save for the range ones that are installed at 25 and 50 yards, and I as I mentioned there is no backing on these stands so I just don't know how that whole "replacement center" thing would work on a stand like this. There is nothing supporting the paper when you press on the center of it to staple a replacement center in.

How do they handle the targets in a match situation? Do the target holders have backing? Are replacement centers used in a match or do you have to put up a new complete target for each string?

Thanks
 
All the ranges I shoot at here and in OK they have wooden frames with cardboard attached that is the same size as the full size target or metal frame that allows you slide in a piece of cardboard that you staple a target to. We just replace the repair center during matches with staples and use pasters on any holes outside of the repair center. If the cardboard gets too shot up, they allow you to change it out or put up a new full size target if you have a lot of pasters.

At Camp Perry they provide a piece of cardboard with a full sized target glued to it for each stage of the match, so you end up using 27 targets and backers for a 2700; 9 SF and 18 TF/RF. They have metal target holders that you slide the cardboard in to and huge rubber bands to keep them from popping out if it's windy, which seems to be all the time.

The targets I use are the B6 (full size SF target), B6CP (SF repair center), B8CP (TF/RF repair center) and the B16 (25 yard SF tagboard).
 
BE Practice targets

Bottom of the page.

http://www.flat5.net/shooting.htm

Print one/each on just regular paper. Then go to your local copier machine and make hundreds. No, they're not regulation paper that way, but for practice they're just fine. You'll know whether you're shooting 80's or 90's. Shoot the ones you've already shot as Rimfire, with your centerfire gun. Save a branch, save a tree, save some dough.

Those without target backings should go to your local appliance store. You'll be able to grab refrigerator, washer and dryer boxes. Cut the cardboard to fit your clubs target stands. If they're just wood stands, then use heavy staples to attach them to the stand. Else, your club should have some stands that you can slide the cardboard in from the top/sides... Whatever. It's not rocket science.

I get roll-ends from the local newpaper publisher. Two feet wide. Once stapled up at 25yds, I put a bullet hole in the center. Then I aim for that hole. Again. Again. If you changed that, and aim for the last hole made, again, again, you'll learn if you are flinching consistantly in one direction or not. (just an old trick I stumbled upon) Your POI will show a pattern.

Wayne02.. SlowFire sighting. I raise above the bull then drop to it, with red dot or with iron sights. That's just me. I feel comfortable settling to a 'rest/targeted' position. There's this little rough spot in the movement of my shoulder. I drop to just below that. You can see, how a person aquires the sights/target may vary quite a lot to shooters. You'll have to find what works for you. Many RO's will frown on raising above the bull/target. Try this. With an unloaded weapon, set your stance, gun in hand but on the bench. Close your eyes. Lift to aquire target with your sights. Open your eyes. If the sights aren't close, adjust your stance until it is. Try again until you've found a stance that gets you close, or perfect. You'll find that your drop or lift adjustment will be minimal. Practice the steps to get to that point and you should find that all your scores will improve. Recovery from recoil to get back on target will be more consistant.

-Steve
 
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Those without target backings should go to your local appliance store. You'll be able to grab refrigerator, washer and dryer boxes. Cut the cardboard to fit your clubs target stands. If they're just wood stands, then use heavy staples to attach them to the stand.
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Unfortunately, as I mentioned in previous posts there is to be nothing other than the target paper stapled to the 2x4 frame, no cardboard, no separate special target holders etc. If this type of thing were allowed I'd already be doing it.

Thus my question as to whether the replacement center concept is even workable with a target that has no backing in the center? If not, then I might be better served to buy 500 of thinner paper targets and just have to change the whole target out each and every time.
 
Wayne, where in WA do you live?

If you're in the South Sound area, you are cordially invited to join me at Cascade Rifle and Pistol. We don't have the target restrictions you mention--I just head out with a bunch of repair centers and go for it!

BTW, here's a training tip:

Try shooting Indoor Pistol--a LOT. I use the smallbore rifle targets at 15 yards. I guarantee you that holding a good sight picture/sight alignment on that target is HARD. When you can keep all your shots in the black, you're making progress. When you manage to cut bugholes, you're improving a lot!

Try this: shoot at 15 yards with your .22, on the reduced smallbore or air rifle targets. Do this for a while, concentrating on sight and trigger control.

Now, go out to 25 yards, and post a B-8 target. Shoot a string of timed and rapid fire. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
 
Wayne, I guess I'm a little confused.

You can't post up a cardboard target? SoBeIt. Some thick construction paper with the afore mentioned practice targets taped/stapled to the construction paper?

There has to be a way.

What club are you shooting at?

-Steve
 
Wayne:

Can you simply go to the Board of Directors meeting and request a clarification/change of the target rules? If you don't get satisfaction then go to the general members meeting. It seems ridiculous to me that you cannot use a cardboard backing to the target.
 
I'm in Everett

The range is Kenmore

I can try thicker paper, the tag paper targets are pretty thick so maybe I'll buy some of those next time there and see if they will support stapling in the center.

The last range meeting I was at a few months back the rule was clarified to us by the man himself.

However, I notice the target stands are pretty shot up so I may volunteer to help rebuild them and talk with some more folks about the issue at the time.

I also see they have some bullseye matches on the calender so I'll try and get to one of those and see what stands those guys use. Maybe they have some stands locked up around there that I'm not aware of.

If ranges were like starbucks (in every town) I'd look at going to a different one, but they aren't so I do with what I have, and I like everything else about this range.
 
Two questions with regard to alternate methods of practice

Is there much value in using a .22 conversion on your .45 in order to get more frequent center-fire practice without breaking the bank for .45 ammo?

This is may not be considered a good air pistol but I do have one of these I could practice with either on my property or with maybe a 25' lane inside my shop. Are all air gun pellets pretty much created equal or does it really make that much of a difference for practice?
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