Bullseye vs powder coat

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Reefinmike

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Just out of curiosity, I pulled a few 38's that I loaded up back last may when powder coating with powder coating with airsoft bb's became the new thing. The bullseye stuck to the base of the bullet pretty well and actually softened the powder coat on the base such that it could be scratched off with a fingernail. the rest of the powder coat was fine. I pulled a few more to confirm. I used harbor freight red for these.

I pulled some other loads I had using 700x and HP38, the base of the bullets were unchanged. Curious to see if anyone knows how w296/h110 do long term with powder coat. I started using pc bullets for 300blk and 357mag and am a bit hesitant on loading up a years worth of ammo.

Probably not a big deal, but its worth looking into.
 
Maybe it's the same effect as powders distorting reservoirs on top of powder measures. I know some powders like Titegroup are very hard on the reservoirs, and some powders like Universal or N310 don't bother them at all.
 
It might also be the amount of solvent in your particular can of BE.

I have a "bad" can of Varget. It smells like acetone. But this isn't the norm.

If your can of BE smells particularly strong, this issue might go away if you leave the lid off overnight.
 
this is a non issue for me as I decided months ago(once I got my powder stock under control) to designate my keg of hp38 for 38 and 380(powder coated) and the bullseye for plain lubed lead 45's.

Just thought it would be something for others to consider before loading up several years worth of ammo.
 
It's a double base vs single base powder. Double base powders chew plastic up, like your powder drop reservoir. Single base powders can reside in them in without chewing them up.

I'd need to talk to a chemist to understand why. It's got to be something with sucking in water from the air and making as solvent or something out of it that attacks the plastic. I say this because they are usually "dry" out of the canister from what I can tell.
 
That is interesting for sure, and I am sure it is the composition of the powder and solvents in it which are working on the PC.

The issue however is nothing I would personally be concerned with unless it is resulting in a compound that is attacking the brass. All else being inspected did the brass show any signs of being etched or damaged in any way?

Other than that just the base being effected and not the actual bearing surface I wouldn't worry too much about it. If your looking for a long term storage you might just pick a different powder like mentioned.

For me, nothing I have loaded that is PC'ed, is going to be in a case longer than a couple of months at the most. I just don't load for long term.
 
It's not a solvent effect.

I'm pretty sure the nitroglycerin in a double base powder reacts with the HDPE plastic in a powder measure via some sort of nitration reaction. I'd have to look up the specifics to be sure.

The powder coating compound isn't HDPE but it's probably another similar nitration reaction. Again, I'm going off of distant memory and I haven't looked up specifics yet.
 
If it's not the residual solvent, but the powder itself reacting with the powder coat, would it have any negative effect on the powder?
Reduce it's energy?
Maybe not a good combo for long term storage?
 
It may have some effect. One would have to test it to see if any effect is significant.

I'd probably just stick with single base powder for coated bullets if I was planning on storing them long term or at high temperatures.
 
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