Caliper recommendations?

[BYJO4]

I personally prefer a dial caliper. There has already been several posts concerning the top of the line ones. I've found the one made by RCBS also does a nice job and is moderately priced.

 

[splattergun]

Before you trash the calipers:
Have they been reading consistently in the past?
Have you tried changing the battery?

Even pricier calipers can get squirrley when the battery is on the way out.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

As already said, Starrett pretty much sets the standard. However, there are plenty of other brands which are perfectly acceptable for use, even the lower priced ones.

Personally, I detest plastic slides. Don't like the idea of it in a caliper. I don't care whether it's digital or analog, so long as it's accurate AND repeatable.

You can test accuracy and repeatability using a set of feeler gages. I suppose if you wished, you could also invest in a set of calibration rods or discs. Actually, you don't need a set...just one that's close to the range you would use, such as a one inch one for handgun ammo. You can google this and find places to buy them from. Expect to pay about 50 bones or so for one this size.

I have an OEM digital slide caliper I picked up at an auto parts store for about $25 or so, if I remember correctly. It's accurate and repeatable.

Another thing to look for is ruler markings on the slide. Mine has them in both metric and English and the difference between 1.062 and 1.019 is quite visibly noticable. Just another "attention to detail" feature you can use to easily double check for gross errors.

It should go without saying that calipers, being a fairly delicate precision instrument, should be cared for accordingly. Get one with it's own case and be sure to store it in the case when not in use. Change the batteries periodically, remove them when not used long term, make sure they're kept clean and dry, make sure they operate smoothly, and check their calibration periodically against feeler gages or calibration rods. And don't drop them.

Even so, like any such precision tool, sometimes you need to replace them for whatever reason. Your calibration checks will tell you when this is necessary.

 

[foxtail207]

I use a Mitutoyo dial caliper that I bought in 1967 when I was a machinist. I now use it in reloading and it still works great and is accurate. I probably paid $30 for it then. I think they start at about $90 now.

 

[RandyP]

I have NO doubt that the pricier measuring instruments can provide accuracy to within a 1/2 gnats eyelash and for those folks who feel the need for that level of accuracy in their home-made ammo? I say Go for it!

Me? I have a $10 digital set from Harbor Freight, I keep it in fresh batteries I get on flea-bay from battmanaz for literally pennies apiece shipped and it is more than 'accurate enough' for my needs.

To test my hypothesis that this ain't rocket surgery or NASA level work when I first got the thing I measured the OAL of a large sample of .45ACP WWB ammo. As you might expect the variance in that Factory Fresh ammo was far beyond that 1/2 gnat's eyelash level accuracy capability of high priced measuring gear.

Caveat? I make mid-range ammo in 4 calibers all using the same powder Win 231/HP-38 and only plated or FMJ bullets due to local range rules against bare lead reloads.

 

[PJSprog]

I used to use a 6" digital many years ago, but it always ate batteries at an unacceptable rate. They were the cheap ones from Harbor Freight, but they were accurate when working. I used a much pricier one at work, and it ate batteries, too.

I bought an inexpensive (Harbor Freight) dial caliper about two years ago, and haven't looked back. It's accurate, repeatable, and always returns to zero. I have yet to replace a battery in it (wink).

Spend $100+ on a nice one if it makes you feel better. But, you should know that it really isn't necessary.

 

[Blue68f100]

I have an 30+ year old set of Strerrett #120 dial calipers. Bought the cheap set from HF when they were on sale for $9.99. When I put them on my cal blocks I discovered that the old Sterret's were wore out of calibration. I was off anywhere from 0.001 - 0.002" just depending where you are on the scale. If I got above a certain range they were on again. I checked the HF set they were right on with the cal blocks (1" increments) but when I took a pin set to check in between marks. They were off too. Just because they check out with the std Cal blocks does not mean they are precise through out the full range. I bought a set of Mitutoyo Absolute Digital and these are dead on through out the full range.

So if your doing something that requires a precision measurement the cheap ones or a old worn out set may not be the best choice. With most reloading, OAL a few thousandths will not matter. But if your trying to measure bullet sizes it might not be accurate. Choose wisely. You will never go wrong buying high quality tools, they will last a lot longer.

 

[dagger dog]

I could never get the batteries to last in my HF digital so I traded them and yes they act screwy with weak batteries.

I f you have young good eyes a quality vernier caliper can be had for $50.00, if you have older eyes a dial caliper is the way to go, you can go from $ 14.95 HF to $465.00 for a Starret.

If you have eyes like mine you need a braille caliper

The dial calipers available from RCBS, Redding, and other reloading equipment manufacturers are probably made off shore.

I've tested my $14.95 Harbor Freight POS Chi-Com dial against my Mititoyo metric dial, and Starret analog digital mike, and can't find a problem.

For the younger members, there was a time when Made in Japan was a derogatory label only found on the cheapest POS junk made. Funny how 60 years can change technology.

Of course there is some maintenance required on all measuring instruments regular cleaning and lubrication along with accuracy zeroing and proper storing.

 

[HOWARD J]

I used a Mitutoyo for 30 years until I lost the reset tool
Last 10 years I use Harbor Freight $9.95 digital caliper--works good--I changed battery about 2/3 times.

 

[Hondo 60]

Are the Starrets you mention for $125 digital Hondo?

Yes, digital

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029XQM9Y

and I saw a post above about a flashing display...
Yes, when it flashes that means the battery needs to be replaced.
And yes, a weak battery will cause wild fluctuations in accuracy.

 

[Jcinnb]

Everytime I think I have enough stuff, a damn thread like this comes along.

I had a bad feeling about my digital calipers, then I read this.

KerChing.

Are these dial, stainless from RCBS good/worth it.
http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Stainless-Steel-Dial-Caliper/dp/B000N8JYZG/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1371207382&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=rcbs+dial+caliper

 

[JohnBT]

"The good USA built Starrett is the 120 series - they run closer to $200 and more."

Well call me clueless, old and out of touch. About 25 years ago a buddy gave me a new 6" Starrett 120A - red dial marked American Made. Dang.

 

[kerreckt]

I use el-cheapo digital calipers. I have several and check them against each other and if I am not yet confused I check them against my good ol' dial calipers. Been doing it this way for many years and still have both my eyes, all my fingers and both thumbs.

 

[caz223]

About 30 years ago I purchased a Lyman dial calipers, for less than $40.
It has never failed me, and I trust it as close enough.
A quick check online at midway shows Lyman still offers one, and it's still reasonably priced.

 

[clutch]

I've used my Mitutoyo dial calipers for years, stepped up to the current production digital ones because I like switching units, setting a zero where ever I want.

I do hobby machining at home, real machining and machining center repair at work. My tastes are likely a bit more refined.

Even a plastic dial caliper is fine for case length. Measuring bullet diameter, you need a micrometer.