Can a .32-40 1894 be bored out to .38-55 and still function?

1KPerDay

1KPerDay

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I have an old ‘94, octagon barrel, not nickel steel from what I can see. Needs a little work on the action and wrist and I just took a look at the bore and it’s got a dark area or maybe a ring about a third of the way from the muzzle. No bulging on the barrel so I’m guessing it’s just rust that got out of hand, or maybe a bullet stuck there for a while and fouling ate away around it? No idea. But theoretically, is there another chambering that this rifle could be converted to without rebarrelling?
 
Rim thickness and diameter are compatible but I can't say whether of not the original barrel will support being sleeved in the necessary dimension.

Others may have input on the latter.


Todd.
 
I think you are OK from a dimensional standpoint, but a good rebore/rerifle would depend on the depth of flaw mentioned. This is probably a question your chosen rebore service will have to answer, but I think the question is worth submitting your barrel and asking.

On the other hand, if you can source a suitable new barrel of modern steel, it might lead to a better and less expensive outcome to go that route -- assuming the rest of your rifle is sound. Reboring and rechambering usually costs much more than a basic install and headspace job.
 
Nope I haven’t shot it. The firing pin is frozen in the forward position. And the rear piece underneath the action slides to the rear when you open the lever and prevents you from closing the action until you manually push that part forward again. I don’t know how to fix that either.

I guess I should really give it a good cleaning and see if I can get a better look at the bore. It hasn’t been shot in my lifetime and I suspect my dad has never shot it either. He collected old guns but didn’t shoot the old guns
 
ApacheCoTodd said:
Rim thickness and diameter are compatible but I can't say whether of not the original barrel will support being sleeved in the necessary dimension.

Others may have input on the latter.


Todd.
Click to expand...
I assumed that .38-55 would be larger in every dimension and thus The bore would not need to be sleeved at all.
 
Dave DeLaurant said:
I think you are OK from a dimensional standpoint, but a good rebore/rerifle would depend on the depth of flaw mentioned. This is probably a question your chosen rebore service will have to answer, but I think the question is worth submitting your barrel and asking.

On the other hand, if you can source a suitable new barrel of modern steel, it might lead to a better and less expensive outcome to go that route -- assuming the rest of your rifle is sound. Reboring and rechambering usually costs much more than a basic install and headspace job.
Click to expand...
Good info thanks. I hadn’t considered that. Since this is an heirloom I would prioritize keeping the original barrel intact.
 
1KPerDay said:
I assumed that .38-55 would be larger in every dimension and thus The bore would not need to be sleeved at all.
Click to expand...
So then, you're thinking about boring, honing and rifling the barrel?

I assume after it is removed from the receiver?

If there's enough to the current barrel, you could get away with sleeving it while still affixed to the receiver. A sleeve-insert will already be rifled.

Todd.
 
A rebore is possible, and would most likely give you a perfect bore as long as there are no mishaps during the process. I believe you will need to replace the cartridge lifter. From what I have read, no personal experience, the Winchester 94 cartridge lifters are cartridge specific.
 
ApacheCoTodd said:
So then, you're thinking about boring, honing and rifling the barrel?

I assume after it is removed from the receiver?

If there's enough to the current barrel, you could get away with sleeving it while still affixed to the receiver. A sleeve-insert will already be rifled.

Todd.
Click to expand...
Ah. Thanks. Obviously I’m in over my head here. Sleeving means drilling out the bore and gluing in a rifled and chambered sleeve, correct? And I assume this is less work than boring, rifling, and chambering a barrel? And sleeving can be done with the barrel installed but boring/rifling can’t?
 
Stan Rosen said:
A rebore is possible, and would most likely give you a perfect bore as long as there are no mishaps during the process. I believe you will need to replace the cartridge lifter. From what I have read, no personal experience, the Winchester 94 cartridge lifters are cartridge specific.
Click to expand...
Yeah I wondered about the lifter and also whether the cartridge interrupter or whatever it’s called on these rifles would need to be tweaked.

this is probably all not worth the trouble. I was just mulling things over. It’s a cool old rifle and It would be fun to get it shooting again. I probably should just learn how to disassemble and fix it and see if it will actually shoot acceptably with the current bore.
 
1KPerDay said:
Ah. Thanks. Obviously I’m in over my head here. Sleeving means drilling out the bore and gluing in a rifled and chambered sleeve, correct? And I assume this is less work than boring, rifling, and chambering a barrel? And sleeving can be done with the barrel installed but boring/rifling can’t?
Click to expand...
It's generally less work when it is possible. Usually reserved for maintaining the caliber so that the barrel markings are still appropriate.
The classic way to affix the sleeve is a soldering technique but there may be industrial epoxies better suited now.
After, the chamber is reamed and the extractor cut-out if necessary.
Pretty straight forward.
One concern of a caliber change would be having the incorrect caliber on the original barrels exterior markings.

As noted above, I'd try shooting it first. I've had a couple-three rifles and a Colt's Woodsman that would look to the eye (and bore-scope) to be trashed and yet returned remarkable accuracy and reliability.

Todd.
 
ApacheCoTodd said:
One concern of a caliber change would be having the incorrect caliber on the original barrels exterior markings.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but that'd be a relatively easy fix. Thanks for the good advice, all. I'm going to see if I can get it running first and then deal with the barrel if/when it becomes necessary.
 
Probably. You would have a new bore but the outside of the barrel would match the rest of the gun. Which is the advantage to reboring and the only real issue with a "new" barrel. However, if t he barrel is to be remarked, then you'll be losing the original finish in that area, which might be another wrinkle. Then there's the issue of old steel, which makes a new barrel more attractive. Of course, I'm sure there are folks who could age a new barrel but then you're paying for an artist to age a $500 barrel on a rifle that probably worth less than the cost of the work. There are several different paths to your destination.
 
Yeah. I figure if it comes to that the caliber can be overstruck well enough to be clear.

I guess the first course of action is still to try to get it functioning and safe in the original caliber and see how it shoots before I start messing with a different chambering or sleeving it in the same caliber.
 
1KPerDay said:
Ah. Thanks. Obviously I’m in over my head here. Sleeving means drilling out the bore and gluing in a rifled and chambered sleeve, correct? And I assume this is less work than boring, rifling, and chambering a barrel? And sleeving can be done with the barrel installed but boring/rifling can’t?
Click to expand...
Your understanding of sleeving is correct. However, sleeves are only available for a limited number of very low pressure cartridges. It's doubtful that either sleeving or boring could be done on a lever action without removing the barrel from the action. I don't know if the rest of the rifle is in collector condition, but it's something to consider before you modify it. If you do decide to rebore, contact JS Reboring. They do 38-55.
http://www.35caliber.com/8.html
 
I have an 1893 Marlin in .38-55. The bore is pitted and dark. It is very accurate with hard cast 240 grain bullets and a moderate load.

So I'd shoot your rifle the way it is before incurring the expense of a new barrel, a sleeve, or rebore. I would certainly be sure the problems with the action and wood are resolved before putting much money into it.

How often will you shoot the rifle and how important is accuracy? If it's range gun with minute of pie plate accuracy at 50 yards, is that good enough?
 
Coyote3855 said:
How often will you shoot the rifle and how important is accuracy? If it's range gun with minute of pie plate accuracy at 50 yards, is that good enough?
Click to expand...
likely rarely, and pie plate at 50 is about as well as I can see and shoot anyway even if a rifle is brand new. Lol

thanks all for the good advice. Anyone know what part is worn or missing that would allow the bottom of the locking bolt to move too far to the rear when the action is open (if the rifle is tilted upward at all) and prevent the lever from closing? Until you push the locking bolt forward again?
 
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