Can this install be saved??

[perklo]

So I bought a 1980s Ruger Speed Six and wanted a tritium front sight. I ordered such a sight made for an SP101 and only had to removed a few thousandths off each side of the base to firmly press it into the barrel slot.

Then I had to slip a 1/16" bit into the pin hole and drill a hole through the new sight base. I've done this about eight or nine times before and never had an issue. I only have a hand drill but going slow with cutting oil, no sweat . . .

Until today, when the bit broke off flush with the hole about halfway through the new blade.

There's no exposed bit to grab and pull, I don't think tools are made to shatter a hard bit that small in hole and if I try and drill from the other side, I imagine the new bit could break when it hits the broken one, making things even worse.

I MIGHT be able to force the blade out (damaged of course) as there is a little gap near the front of the slot in between the blade and barrel I was going to fill with BlackMax. I can get a punch in there and force the blade to come out, then drive the broken bit out.

Any better ideas or wisdom?

- perklo

 

[WestKentucky]

Your luck is much like mine. Perhaps a tiny mill bit like a 2 flute cutter on a mill or drill press would mangle the remnants of the broken bit into chunks that would fall free.

 

[Jeff62]

I haven’t had this exact scenario but I would try drilling from the other side stopping at contact with the broken bit. Then use a tapered drift to carefully tap the broken bit until I could grip it.
You’re going to sweat like bomb technician.

 

[Blue68f100]

We used a EDM machine to remove broken bits without scraping parts. A well equipped machine shop may have one. Don't know what they would charge, replacing the sight may be cheaper.

 

[beag_nut]

Or, heat up the muzzle (carefully) then drive a slightly undersize punch from the side that was not drilled yet. Don't wait long enough for the broken drill to reach the same temp as the muzzle. That's the first thing I would try.
Other than that, Blue's EDM idea would work.

 

[edwardware]

The tritium vial makes me cautious. . .

If you give that bit a hard strike with a punch, it should loosen. You could also drill from the other side.

My solution, with a drill press and micro-carbide bits, would be to slowly drill the bit away.

 

[Atavar]

They make a broken bit remover that is basically two pins that you slide into the flutes of the broken bit then use it like a spanner to back the bit out.
https://www.lockpickshop.com/BDB-E.html
https://www.lockpickshop.com/BDB-UW.html

 

[perklo]

Thanks for the ideas. I live in East Nowhere so likely no EDM at hand. And I'm embarassed to admit I sold my low RPM drill press when I got divorced 14 years ago.

I ordered a five pack of USA made 3/64 bits. I'm thinking of try to drill through the other side with those as they are smaller than the pin hole by a hair. If they break there at least a chance the pieces could come out. If I break through to the bit I can use a 3/64 punch to drive out the broken bit. Thoughts??

 

[perklo]

Just saw the post with the set of broken bit unwinders. Those may get ordered lol.

 

[WrongHanded]

If the bit won't come out, and the sight won't come out either......maybe pour some red thread locker down in all the crevices and just let it be? Not an elegant solution, but it'll keep it in place.

The other option you might consider, is to shoot some hot magnum loads through the gun and see if it loosens the broken drill bit at all. If not, I'd refer you back to my first suggestion.

 

[perklo]

Oh, I've got hot loads lol. The only stuff I shoot in .357 is 180 gr. hard cast, gas checked flat nose bear/hog loads from Buffalo Bore, Double Tap etc.

It's a concession to getting older. I used to shoot only .44 and .45 300 grainers out of Blackhawks and Redhawks

 

[4v50 Gary]

We used a EDM machine to remove broken bits without scraping parts. A well equipped machine shop may have one. Don't know what they would charge, replacing the sight may be cheaper.

Sweet. What type of shop do you work in that has EDM?

 

[perklo]

I ordered a set of these little micro tweezers. If I can get it to back out by a couple of good whacks I might twist it out yet . . .

 

[Coyote3855]

Sounds like some of my gunsmithing.

 

[a5werkes]

I have all manner of broken Tap extractors, 3 & 4 flute styles, in small diameter gunsmith useful sizes. Whereas the broken Drill bit extractors, the smallest I have seen is 3/16"; I have not fractured that large a size drill bit. IF someone has a link for tool(s) applicable to smaller diameter bits I would appreciate it.

 

[perklo]

I've installed this MANY times on my own and friends guns, but the only other time a bit broke there was enough protruding to grip it and remove.

I'm in no hurry as this is my personal firearm. I'm trying to see this as a LEARNING EXPERIENCE lol!

 

[Blue68f100]

Sweet. What type of shop do you work in that has EDM?

I retired 20 yrs ago. The R&D shop ( Private company) got shut down a few years earlier and most machinery was sold at auction. Some of the R&D work required 1/16" holes drilled 18" deep and had to intersect another port. The only way to do it was with a EDM machine.

 

[Mizar]

...maybe pour some red thread locker down in all the crevices and just let it be?...

Threadlockers are anaerobic, so it won't do much help here, unfortunately.

 

[WrongHanded]

Threadlockers are anaerobic, so it won't do much help here, unfortunately.

I'm confused by this. We're talking about stuff like loctite, right? It works to bind the surfaces of threads, but won't bind other surfaces? Because....oxygen?

I'm open to hearing what you're getting at here. But I don't understand it yet. Please explain further.

 

[Mizar]

Threadlockers don't harden in the presence of Oxygen - like I said, those are anaerobic adhesives and only cure in the absence of it. You can't just put a few drops on the broken drill and expect it to work.
If the drill bit is halfway through the sight I will just leave it there, like WrongHanded already suggested - just clean the broken edge with a sharpening stone if needed and head straight to the range.

 

[rtufixer]

Well that sucks. At this point trying to drill thru the broken drill is just not going to work. I guarantee your going to break it. Drill into the other side see if you can just break thru. Then with a small punch see if you can just tap it thru. Hope it works out for you.

 

[perklo]

I have FIVE USA made 3/64" bits en route. That's my plan. And I ordered some micro tweezers to grip the broken bit as well.

It will come out, one way or the other!

 

[WrongHanded]

Threadlockers don't harden in the presence of Oxygen - like I said, those are anaerobic adhesives and only cure in the absence of it. You can't just put a few drops on the broken drill and expect it to work.
If the drill bit is halfway through the sight I will just leave it there, like WrongHanded already suggested - just clean the broken edge with a sharpening stone if needed and head straight to the range.

Ah, I was suggesting filling all the voids with thread locker, all around the sight and the drill bit. I didn't expect a few drops to do anything.

 

[Mizar]

Ah, I was suggesting filling all the voids with thread locker, all around the sight and the drill bit. I didn't expect a few drops to do anything.

Been there, done that - it's too thick and can't penetrate deep enough. Good quality CA glue will be a much better option, but still will not make much of a difference - OP should just leave it as it is.

 

[WrongHanded]

Been there, done that - it's too thick and can't penetrate deep enough. Good quality CA glue will be a much better option, but still will not make much of a difference - OP should just leave it as it is.

Your experience does not mirror mine then. Sometimes an aid is helpful such as a thin bristle from a brush to help wash/poke it into crevices.