Cap n Ball no Lube at all

A Remington 1858

  • needs no lube at all

    Votes: 3 17.6%
  • Cant be shot without lube

    Votes: 11 64.7%
  • No lube in chamber but on arbor ..

    Votes: 4 23.5%

  • Total voters
    17
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walterelm

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Jul 30, 2008
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Location
Germany
Just curious. Who runs a Remington 1858 (no conversion) without any lube
-- no grease cookie
-- no bullet lube
How many balls can you fire until the cylinder stops rotating?
 
Lube serves two purposes: it softens fouling to ensure the action doesn’t bind up and the pistol remains accurate; it inhibits chain fire.

You can run without any lube, provided you wipe out the barrel and clean the arbor each cylinder. No lube just makes cleaning fouling harder. Proper attention to loading, keeping loose powder off the cylinder, and tight fit projectiles should inhibit chain fire.

So, running without lube is possible. But why?
 
@arcticap
American Pioneer Powder is smokeless?

No, it's a black powder substitute that's not too much different than 777.
I believe it's an ascorbic acid based powder that's derived from the sugar of fruit or fruit juice.
It's other ingredients are in this MSDS section 3 : --->>> https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/MSDS/749-014-780_AMERICAN PIONEER JIM SHOCKEYS FFFG GOLD POWDER 1LB - A46_default.pdf

You may be thinking of Blackhorn 209 which is a smokeless substitute powder.
 
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@BullRunBear
You are greasing the arbor .. that means you are talking about a colt ? On my Walker greasing the arbor did help a great lot

But on a remington??
 
I use a wad and some lube on the front of the cylinder. I’ve tried with only the wad and no lube. It seems to get fouled up quicker if I do t put the lube on the front.
 
I quit using lubed wads when shooting a ball at some point. My NMA would bind up on the third cylinder. But Ballistol on the cylinder pin keeps it running.

As a side note I grabbed some bullets to run to the range with the neighbor and grabbed some unlubed ones that I made really short at 0.400” long and 170 grns. They were all over the place from shot one. Lubed and they do just as well as anything I’ve tried.
 
I quit using lubed wads when shooting a ball at some point. My NMA would bind up on the third cylinder. But Ballistol on the cylinder pin keeps it running.

As a side note I grabbed some bullets to run to the range with the neighbor and grabbed some unlubed ones that I made really short at 0.400” long and 170 grns. They were all over the place from shot one. Lubed and they do just as well as anything I’ve tried.
I got some stuff called black-solve from Dixie gun works to put on the cylinder pin. It does a good job but I’m sure ballistol works just as well. I haven’t tried putting lube on the balls yet. I have some bore butter maybe I will try it and see how it does
 
When I shoot with just balls and powder I pre-lube the barrel with wonder lube. anymore I tumble lube my lead with Lee Alox Lube. I also put a few small beeswax pellets on top of my powder charge. If fouling starts to build-up I use a blowtube to soften the fouling. You can shoot with no lube but after shooting a few cylinders fouling is going to start building up and accuracy will suffer and at some point, they will bind up. Controlling black powder fouling makes shooting these guns more enjoyable for me to shoot. When I target shoot I use wads or grease cookies. When I wearing a holster I don't.

Mike
 
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I didn’t shoot a whole lot of balls without wads as I went to my custom bullets, which I do use lube. I don’t shoot balls at all in my revolvers. So my having said it worked ok isn’t based on a lot of shooting. But it did work.
 
With my 58 if I don't lube the small arbor gets chock full o gunk and hard to cook after a cylinder or two. I use a little bottle of mineral oil to keep the arbor moist and a touch around the cylinder.
 
Ok ... two state you need to lube the arbor ... didnt think that is possible ... i have to remove the cylinder to get rid of all caps ..
 
Ok ... two state you need to lube the arbor ... didnt think that is possible ... i have to remove the cylinder to get rid of all caps ..

Hmmm, I've never shot a Remington or Colt pattern cap gun without greasing the basepin or the arbor! The more the better!! That would be like installing a wheel bearing without packing it with grease.
As far as the caps, you shouldn't have to remove the cylinder to remove the caps (assuming they are spent caps. Maybe your mainspring is a little heavy. Lightening it may allow them to "self loosen". Of course you don't want to go too light and cause ignition problems.

Mike
 
Ok ... two state you need to lube the arbor ... didnt think that is possible ... i have to remove the cylinder to get rid of all caps ..

I can easily pull my base pin forward leaving the cylinder in place.

I would begin with oil on the pin, and I generally reapplied a little more periodically, not because it was beginning to drag or bind, but just because I figured it a good idea. Not sure how long it would hold up with one application.

I use Olde Eynsford powder which seems to produce less fouling than most brands of black powder. I also use T7, but then it doesn’t foul anything like BP so I’ve not really touched on it.
 
I run with no lube except for some oil on the pin. Usually there's a cornmeal filler under the ball and the caps always fit tight. This seems to eliminate the chain fires. However, my cylinder reloading is done off-frame in a press, so I may be clearing fouling every time I pull the cylinder pin.
 
I've started using Permatex AL antieize on internals and pin. It has good cohesive quality plus the 1600^ temp rating allows it to hold up well to hot gases and is smooth as silk.
2:1 veggie oil to wax boiled together for over ball and patches. I find the advantage being it's cheap to make and when exposed to heat it leaves a soft somewhat oily soot that is very easy to clean and greatly reduces hard fouling. Also a good general lube when you don't have your preffered on hand and can use to spiff up leather.
 
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