Care and feeding of Marlin 60?

[Buck13]

Just bought a new (old) Marlin 60 .22, in Glenfield trim. Any advice on what and how much lube these like on their parts, and what ammo (SV vs mini-mag) typically cycles best?

 

[mdThanatos]

Check and see if the buffer is in good condition. When I replaced mine it was broken in to 3 pieces but the rifle was still firing. If yours needs replacing Midway has them here and it isn't a difficult process at all.

 

[amprecon]

I have found that CCI works the most consistently in my Marlin 60's. But I have also learned to take a leatherman or pair of needle nose pliers with me when I go shooting. When they jam up, it's nearly impossible to get the shell out without a pair of needle nose pliers. If all you have is a pocket knife, you will definitely ruin the blade trying to pry that shell out of there.

 

[joed]

I have a model 60 from the 1970's, never a hiccup on any ammo as long as it is long rifle.

Sad part is I haven't shot it in 30 years. May have to break it out again.

 

[Scooter22]

Don't shoot hyper velocity rounds in them like Stingers. They will beat that nylon buffer. Numrich(Gun Parts) has a nice replacement buffer made of a black material like a boot sole. Better than the white nylon ones.

 

[ontarget]

Mine seems to shoot most ammo fairly well. I use Rem oil on it.

 

[BBarn]

I like the Model 60. The only drawback is that I find the action needs to be fairly clean for good functioning. They seem to work fine if cleaned every few hundred rounds up to perhaps every 500 rounds. I use regular HV in mine. Standard velocity seems more prone to ejection failures. Nothing special on the lube.

 

[Buck13]

I have found that CCI works the most consistently in my Marlin 60's. But I have also learned to take a leatherman or pair of needle nose pliers with me when I go shooting. When they jam up, it's nearly impossible to get the shell out without a pair of needle nose pliers. If all you have is a pocket knife, you will definitely ruin the blade trying to pry that shell out of there.

Is this an extractor problem? I've never had a failure like this with any gun.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

^I got that problem shooting bulk ammo with occasional weak loads in a dirty Model 60. The shell fails to eject and stays in the ejection port and a round is fed half way into the chamber jamming the empty between the live round and the top of the receiver.
Fix: lock the bolt open. push the live round back, shake the live round and empty out.
My son solved his Model 60 problems by sticking to CCI MiniMags.

Cleaning advice: periodically clean well, removing fouling in the receiver, on the bolt, barrel breech face and extractor cuts, using bamboo skewer, q-tips, toothbrush. Leave the parts of the bolt and receiver exposed to hot gas clean and dry. Oil the other parts of the bolt and receiver with a long term, non gumming lube like name-branded gun oil or Mobil One.

 

[Buck13]

"Hot gas clean?" Otherwise, I'm with you.

 

[Teachu2]

"Hot gas clean?" Otherwise, I'm with you.

The parts of the bolt and receiver exposed to hot gas should be left clean and dry - do not lube those parts. Oil the other parts of the bolt and receiver with a long term, non gumming lube like name-branded gun oil or Mobil One.

 

[hdbiker]

my brother in law had a model 60 that wouldn't cycle right.I took it home , removed the stock and blasted the action with Gun Scrubber and compressed air a few times. I think it had been lubed with 90 weight gear oil. anyway after a light relube it now runs like a champ . hdbiker

 

[fireman 9731]

My two model 60s run like tops with about any ammo I have fed them. I prefer Federal Automatch but recently I have been using CCI standard velocity and some American Eagle Suppressor loads. They all run just fine.

As far as cleaning goes, they foul up pretty quick just like any other semi-auto 22lr. I get failures to fully go into battery usually after 500+ rounds. Hornady One Shot dry film lube seems to be the best for me for keeping things running smoothly and not fouling up too quickly.

 

[CLP]

hot gas doesn't sound like anything i want to clean with or even be around

cci stingers were the only 22LR that's ever given my model 60 any trouble

that spring-laden contraption is best cleaned with a brush, hoppes or eds red, then blast it with a degreaser

light coat of oiling is all that thing needs

haven't shot mine since getting a 10/22 though- it's incredible how much simpler of an action the 10/22 is in comparison

 

[loose noose]

I've repaired quite a few Marlin model 60's, the main problem is the nylon block that was previously mentioned, the other is the ejector, which has a tendency to break, which necessitates taking the mechanism apart in order to replace the ejector which is a small spring, this can be very tricky to say the least.

Generally speaking, with as many model 60's out there, there is very little to go wrong with them, provided they are kept reasonably clean as they are very easy to disassemble and wipe down.

 

[kBob]

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Open a world of info and experience on the Model 60.

The M 60 folks are almost as "bad" as the Ruger 10/22 crowd with their need to clean, refurbish, modify and glorify the M60 series of .22 rifles.

-kBob

 

[Victor N TN]

Before my mother passed away a few years ago she had a #60 she had up on the farm. She would occasionally get a rabbit or squirrel. But CCI Mini-Mags was all she would shoot in it. She said other stuff "gummed it up".

 

[Steel Talon]

my brother in law had a model 60 that wouldn't cycle right.I took it home , removed the stock and blasted the action with Gun Scrubber and compressed air a few times. I think it had been lubed with 90 weight gear oil. anyway after a light relube it now runs like a champ . hdbiker

This is pretty much all I do on mine for the 30years.