Case Prep Help/Questions

[345 DeSoto]

I'm about to start reloading for optimum accuracy for my 22-250, and I've got some questions on case prep. Some of the questions have NOTHING to do with accuracy, but since this is, far and away, the BEST handloading Site I've found I'll ask anyway.
First, is Case Wash effective for removing all the powder residue from the inside of the cases/primer pockets...or is it mostly a waste of money? If it IS effective, what's the best brand?
Second, I want my cases to be mirror polished (NOT necessary for accuracy). Should I use ground Corn Cob or ground Walnut Shell? Which "grit"/particle size should I use, and should I add any sort of polish to the media?
Third, my rifle is a Savage, Model 10, 1:12 twist, 22" barrel, Acu Trigger. Zeroed at 100yds. Shooting 45 grn UMC (Cheaper than Dirt procured) ammo my groups are nickel/quarter sized. I know for a FACT that the gun is way capable of smaller groups than that (wrong bullet grn wt for my twist). I plan on reloading with 37-39 grns H-380, 55 grn Hornady V-Max. I was thinking of using CCI BR-2 primers. Any thoughts on primer selection?
I realize I am new to rifle reloading, however in years past (MANY years past) I shot in Police (Bullseye & Combat) and Military Competition, and went through the Ft. Benning Sniper School in 1989, so I kind of have my feet wet. My handloads were as perfectly uniform/optimized as I could build them. I just don't want to waste a lot of money (and time) that I don't have, experimenting. ANY help would be greatly appreciated...

 

[dmftoy1]

Welcome to the site! I learn something here daily. I'll try to answer the bits that I'm familiar with and I'm sure others will chime in as appropriate.

First, is Case Wash effective for removing all the powder residue from the inside of the cases/primer pockets...or is it mostly a waste of money? If it IS effective, what's the best brand?

I've never used "Case Wash" so I can't comment. I've had really good luck with walnut media for the initial cleaning. I don't think it gets rid of ALL residue though. For cleaning primer pockets about the only thing I've found to work is that cheap little lee tool for scraping the carbon out of pockets.

Second, I want my cases to be mirror polished (NOT necessary for accuracy). Should I use ground Corn Cob or ground Walnut Shell? Which "grit"/particle size should I use, and should I add any sort of polish to the media?

I've had good luck getting that super bright shiney look with corncob and the dillon blue polish. I suspect the dillon stuff is just some ordinary sort of brass polish with a blue die added to it but one bottle lasts a long time and I usually get a new one for christmas each year from the kids so I can't complain too much.

 

[Crimp]

My 22-250 Savage 10 shoots dime-size patterns (or smaller) at 100 yds with 50gr V-Max, 36.6gr of Varget and CCI BR2 primers. OAL is 2.465".

I couldn't get the group that tight with H-380 or with 55gr Nossler or V-max bullets, although my buddy, with an identical rifle got his best patterns with the 55gr Nossler/H-380 load.

All my brass was once-fired Remington 55gr PSP, resized by just bumping the shoulder. No 'special' brass cleaning was done - just walnut with a dollop of Nu-Finish in the media and the primer pockets cleaned out well. Corn cob should give you a shinier brass than walnut, but I never saw the need for that or for cleaning inside the brass.

I develop my rifle loads using Dan Newberry's Optimal Charge Weight (OCW) method found here.

Good luck!

 

[The Bushmaster]

Don't worry about the inside of the case...Just tumble the case in corncob (as I do) or walnut. I understand that the walnut cleans better, but the corncob polishes better...

 

[USSR]

I'm about to start reloading for optimum accuracy for my 22-250, and I've got some questions on case prep.

First, don't worry about cleaning the inside of the case and making your cases shiny, just get them clean on the outside so they don't damage your dies. Second, use an extruded powder, not a ball powder like H-380. Lastly, get yourself some good dies like Redding's bushing dies, so that you can control the amount of neck tension of your loads.

Don

 

[dennisH87]

I have a .22-250 Savage accu mondel 12FV that i reload for. It also has a 1:12 twist but has a 26" barrel and heres my handloads for it. They prove to be as accurate as i'll ever get them out of my rifle and deadly on woodchucks. I use Win cases, Win primers, 39.6 gr. of H380, 40gr. BTBT V-Max bullets, and neck size the cases. Neck sizing proved to be the determing factor in accuracy in my rifle. After Neck sizing my groups droped .25". I load them to the published COL of 2.350 +_ .001 With these rounds i can place 5 rounds down range and every round goes through the same hole. No Bull**** either (at 100 Yards). at 200 yards the group is dime sized, 300 slightly bigger then a nickle, and 400 idk how they do on paper, but i take headshots on ground hogs @ 400 - 450 effortlessly. this round is listed at 3700 fps. I dont use a case vibrator becuase it puts dings in the neck and work hardens the necks. I just use a chrome polish that works rather well, but they are still dirty/tarnished looking. Its called Mothers somthing or other, Go to Sinclair International's web site, they have it on there, its in a black tin can.

 

[Bitswap]

Damn Crimp!!!!

That OCW stuff is pretty sweet and explains a lot! I didn't realize I was doing this already for my match load development. I wouldn't accept a load that wouldn't group a few grains above or below my pet load. This puts things into prospective.... and will make load development much quicker!

I should come here more often...

Sorry for off-topic response.. but I'm jacked over this concept.