Cimarron 7th Cav problem

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dodgeboy12008

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I recently acquired a Cimarron Arms 7th Cavalry revolver. Under full lock up the cylinder either has a lot of play or it will spin clockwise. As far as I can tell, the bolt is not engaging the cylinder notches. What will I have to do to get it back to firing condition? If I need to replace parts, where is a good place to buy them from?
 
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "full lock up", but I'll assume you mean when the hammer is in any position except the loading position at which time the cylinder should spin freely. When the hammer is in any of the three other positions if the cylinder spins freely, you have either a worn bolt, a timing issue, or a broken or weak bolt spring most likely. I'd suggest removing both the backstrap and trigger guard and working the hammer while watching the rear of the bolt as it passes over the cam on the hammer
to see if it's doing this properly and to see if the bolt spring is applying enough pressure to the bolt.

If you need parts, VTI Gun Parts is a great place and their prices are reasonable. Your Cimarron parts will be listed as Uberti. Their website has diagrams so you can easily identifiy the part you need.

Good luck!

35W
 
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I was watching a couple of internet vids and they said to cock the hammer, pull the trigger and let the hammer down slowly, all while keeping the trigger back. They kept calling that full lock up. How much pressure should the bolt spring be applying to the bolt? Should I be able to push it down with light pressure using a screwdriver to get into the slot?


On that site I dont see this model listed. Will the parts for the 1873 cattleman work?
 
Yes, you should be able to depress it with a screwdriver. When you get ready to order parts, I think those for a Cattleman will work. I had to put a new hammer in one of mine and I just odered a hammer for a Cattleman and it worked. I'd talk to the people at VTI, they're very helpful. Cimarron also sells parts.

35W
 
Most Cimarrons are either made by Uberti or Pietta and the SAA are mostly Uberti. Parts are the same and if I remember correctly if at full cock the cylinder will turn check the main spring located in the grip. I've heard of this happening before.
 
May have a broken bolt/trigger spring and you should install a music wire replacement from Wolff or Heinie anyway.
 
I always keep a handful of these on hand. So that when I buy a new gun, I don't have to order a new set of springs. Typically I get them in complete sets as most factory single actions have a hammer spring that is too heavy.
 
As far as I can tell, the main spring is ok. When I put the grip back on I had to put pressure on it to get the screw holes to line up. I know the bolt spring is not broken, but maybe, weak. I have nothing to compare it to right now. Would I just be better off replacing the bolt and the spring. If ones worn, the other probably is too?
 
The Main, or hammer spring under the grips has absolutely nothing to do with bolt lock-up.

The split lief sear / bolt spring under the trigger guard controls the trigger return tension, and bolt lock-up.

No don't replace the bolt.

It either works, or it doesn't.

And it doesn't if the sear / bolt spring is defective.

rc
 
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You also don't know enough about the gun & its timing to be replacing the bolt.
Denis
 
As RC said, the hammer spring has nothing to do with your problem. You don't want to have to replace the bolt if you don't have to and as Denis said, it's not something for the amateur. Are you sure the spring is not broken? It should be flat, with a screw hole on one end and two legs, one for the trigger and one for the bolt.
 
I looked at the spring again, and it isn't broken, it just seems worn out. With the spring in place I can push the bolt about 1/16" up more, then the cylinder locks pretty tight. If all I need to to is replace that spring, that would be great. What are the benefits of the wire type over the flat spring? I will not be doing any sort of competition with this, its just a recreational shooter.
 
The Wolff music wire spring will last longer then you will.

The Wolff flat spring will last about half that long, but only if you are about 20 something now starting out.

The flat spring is traditional SAA, if you want to keep your gun traditional SAA.

The music wire spring is non-traditional, if you want your gun to work from now on without breaking another bolt spring.

Your call.

rc
 
Thanks everybody for the responses. I think I will go for the Wolff wire spring. Would it just be prudent to get the shooters pack, that way they match? I am just mid 20s, so I should have a while to wear them out.
 
If you want lighter hammer cocking, the reduced power mainspring will provide it.

If you are happy with the Uberti hammer cocking force on your thumb?
Your base pin latch doesn't let the base pin eject itself out on the ground?
And the ejector rod force is to your liking?
There is no reason to get the reduced power spring pack.


On the other hand?
It never hurts to keep all the springs on hand, Justin Case.

I know, don't call you Justin Case!
Your name is Dodgeboy 12008.

rc
 
Are you kidding?

A SAA hammer weighs more then your average lap dog!

Once it gets moving, there is no way to stop it.

In fact, the overly heavy factory mainsprings Colt used back in the day, and some of the imports use now can hit so hard the hammer jars the gun off target before the bullet gets out of the barrel.

Get the shooters pack and play with them.
Only you can decide what you like best.

rc
 
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