Cleaning/lubrication methodologies thread.

I've reached the point that I just use CLP and get it done without all the steps. I usually use patches and Q-tips to do a quick clean. I might use grease on the rails of my semi pistols, it works well on the Sig. I use Tetra.

 

I use Rem Oil or Hoppe's Elite for exteriors, Boeshield T-9 if conditions will be extra humid or salty. I like Mobil 1 for keeping AR internals wet, Tetra Grease on AR charging handles and pistol slide rails, and Mobil 1 for all other lubrication tasks.

For cleaning, I use Outers Foaming Bore Cleaner for barrels---a foam stays put instead of running out, and as a result seems to work faster---and Hoppe's No. 9 for any powder fouling that hasn't already been fluidized by Mobil 1 (rarely needed).

 

I'll check Eezox out, thanks.
I don't reload(yet), but always have taken 6mmbr with a grain of salt, since they are perpetuating that 308/7.62x51 psi difference stupidity:
http://www.6mmbr.com/308Win.html
You'd think they, of all people, should be able to get it right. But I digress.

How does Eezox work as a lubricant? Is it pleasant, and how costly is it?

 

For those who use Mobil-1 what weight and what is the benefit of mixing with ATF? I plan to go this route soon. I currently use hoppes #9 to clean but plan to try using elite as the wife doesn't like the smell of #9. When I have a garage / bench I can clean on outside the house (away from her nose) I plan to try Ed's Red. I lube / protect with hoppes oil now. Used to clean after every range trip no matter how much shooting was done. Now I run a bore snake, lube and call it good until either accuracy or function degrades (except for my carry gun(s) which will still get a good cleaning to ensure function). I don't shoot much so thus far I haven't needed to go into a deeper cleaning on anything.

 

One thing of note about acetone is it can leech dyes out of type II anodizing. While type III hardcoat is a dark olive/gray from the oxide layer naturally, type II commercial anodizing is much thinner and a pale straw yellow. Parts are often dipped in dye vats, then boiled to swell the oxide crystals to trap the color.

Luckily most guns don't use colorfully anodized type II coated aluminum (with the exception of race guns perhaps) but its a concern to keep in mind.

 

if you going to mix Mobil 1 with anything you might as well not use it...straight 0-20wt. is what I use in all my weapons including my NFA stuff

 

I have only pistols, but would probably do the same thing with long guns. Field-strip (including removing the grips), blast everything with non-chlorinated aerosol brake parts cleaner, thoroughly swab the barrel and chamber, give everything a light coat of Rem-Oil, and put a couple of small dabs of Tetra gun grease on the rails. (Obviously I own no "plastic" guns. )

 

For the actual cleaning I use Breakfree CLP, toothbrush, brushes and q-tips. Lubrication is done with Rem-oil on guns I don't/can't grease and for my AR and SKS I use white lithium grease, applied liberally to the contact surfaces of the BCG's. On the bolt face of the AR I use the Rem-oil, no lube on the firing pin, same as the SKS.

I'll note that I like some grease on my charging handle, makes manipulation feel a bit smoother. I have been warned of getting it near the gas tube so I take care in its application near it.

 

I use 5W-30 because that's what I use in my car, and it works great...thicker than Rem Oil and lasts much longer before drying out. I put some in an old Rem Oil bottle and apply it with a Q-tip.

One caveat---Mobil 1 is not the best choice for protecting the exterior surfaces, because the properties that make it a good lubricant make it messy on the outsides of things...it stays wet and oily and gets on everything the gun touches. I usually use Rem Oil or Hoppes Elite for wiping down exteriors.

 

Hoppes for powder fouling, Sweets, Butches or some other ammonia base for copper fouling, Kroil for detail cleaning parts.

Lubri-Plate, lithium grease for high stress areas.

Lots of hot water, soap and compressed dry air.

RemOil,WD40,3in1 oil for lube and moisture protection.

All are readily available at reasonable prices.

 

After a day at the range, or a round or two in the woods, I use Hoppes solvent with a brush and then some pads. Then either Rem oil or Hoppes oil with more pads. A light wipe down of all external steel with Hoppes oil and I'm done.

 

For regular duty cleaning I have started to use Ed's Red recently, but for really tough rifle bores I still use Shooters Choice and Sweets.

For lubrication I usually go for a mix that an old National Guard armorer told me about 20+ years ago. It's two parts ATF, one part Mobil 1 and one part STP. It is truly great stuff: penetrating and yet really clingy too. For auto pistol slides I'm still working on using up the little sample pot of Militec 1 they sent me 15 years ago. I've gotten so much use out of it that i have promised I will actually buy something from them one day when the sample finally runs out.

 

Hoppes #9, thick-viscosity Mobil 1, an old toothbrush, an eye-dropper and some old T-shirts or tank tops. That's all you'll ever need.

 

Wipeout for copper removal and Ballistol and Breakfree CLP for everything else