cleaning up brand new Ruger sp101

I'm old (therefore I am experienced), I'm opinionated (so I know EVERYTHING), and I'm married (as a result, I am SELDOM right) but here's a for-what-it's-worth about the front of that SP cylinder. There are lots (and lots) more guns that have been prematurely worn (out?) because of over-cleaning than have ever been damaged because of under-cleaning. That Ruger is a workhorse not a Souza Grade Ithaca. Leave it black! It's like your first black eye in Grammar School, take a little quiet pride in that well-earned color!

 

Hey, I resemble that remark!!!!

Just kidding. I'm a clean freak about my guns, and yes, I realize I may have to replace components at some point because of my meticulous nature. I can live with that.

tightgroup tiger and 788Ham, I'll resurect this thread or start a new one when I get my SP done, or to a point I'm satisfied. I'm also going to put some Badger grips on it, but since that will cost me about $86 dollars shipped, it's Christmas time, and I'm traveling next week ($$$$), I'm going to wait untill next month. I'm not trying to bring it up to a nickel finish or anything, I just want to see how pretty I can make it by hand with some time to kill.

Now I'm debating between the rosewood laminate or the black laminate grips. I think I'm going to go with the black laminate. It just seems right for this gun. Maybe I'll order both, because I think I'll pick up a .22lr SP at some point.

 

I second the M-Pro7 recommendation. That and a soft nylon brush takes off almost all the carbon staining from the front of a stainless revolver cylinder.

It does strip oil and grease totally. Reoil after you use it.

BSW

 

Beauty-ful! Thanks for obliging!

 

Every stainless revolver I've ever owned had black stains at the front of the chambers. The stains don't hurt anything. I say clean it as best you can and leave it.

 

I use a stainless steel wire brush to clean the carbon off the cylinder, along with some CLP. They make small ones about the size of a toothbrush.
Works for me.

 

The black rings are carbon...You can erase them right off. A white ink eraser works best.

 

Don't mess with it.

 

A cleanser called "Barkeepers Friend" is the best stainless steel cleaner and polisher i have used. it is mechanical and chemical so be careful. I suggest using a soft cloth like old t shirt and dampen and add a small amount of the powder, and go light and easy, as it will etch if you get too rough. clean with a damp then a dry soft cloth.

 

Yea, I already cleaned it and then shot it at the range. The novelty just wore off. I'm good now.
That sucker really packs a wallop. Now I know why when I see pictures of SP101s on this forum that they always have oversized Houge grips or something simular. Mine has the worst trigger of any revolver I have owned in my 52 years. I think I will have to do something about that. My newest Smith&Wesson I own is a 1973 model 28 and the one I shoot all the time is a 1958 Model 28. They have triggers like silk compaired to this thing. I know it is new and needs to break in but I think a nice Wolf spring kit and a good stoning is in order here. I love it though and once I get it where I want it I'll really love it.

 

Steel guns: Hoppes #9 and a brass brush. Scandium/titanium/aluminum/polymer guns: breakfree clp and a nylon brush. Don't try to clean the carbon off the front cylinder face - you'll be removing metal and potentially widening the b-c gap over time. A ruger needs to be shot cylinder marks just give it character. Be more concerned about metal shavings in the action. Enjoy the SP!

 

I mentioned on another thread that my Ruger Sp101 .22lr got me with , I guess, a piece of lead in the cheek.
Is this normal? This is my only revolver and I don't have much experience with them.
I really like the Ruger btw.

 

I have fired thousands of rounds through a Ruger SP-101, and clean it only once or twice per year. Any you know what? It always works! Don't worry about the dark stains; as others have said, likely you will do more damage cleaning than not.

 

Any time a revolver spits lead at you or off to the side it needs to checked out by Ruger or a gunsmith. There is an alignment problem.

 

Agreed. Spitting lead is evidence of a timing problem. First I've heard of with a Ruger but it happens. Get it to a gunsmith before you shoot it again.

 

The previously mentioned lead remover cloth works great for stainless revolvers. Before I bought one I used to scrub those carbon rings for hours with no progress. The cloth will make it nice and shiny in minutes.

 

tightgroup tiger,

I've got an SP 101, the trigger on mine was horrible! I had a smith stone the hammer, trigger parts, put in a #12 lb. spring on the hammer, didn't touch springs on the trigger. TOTALLY different revolver now, shoots so smooth! Good luck, you will love it!!

 

Another vote for "Don't mess with it."

Anything that removes that carbon is good at removing metal, but more importantly, the carbon is completely harmless. ( It shows that you shoot this gun and by extension, have practiced shooting with this gun.)

 

i tried a bore cleaner called "Wipe out" on my filthy SS 357 security six in its annual cleaning, mostly wiped right off the cylinder face, cleaned the 38 sp rings out of each cyl. with out any scrubbing. This stuff cleans a rifle bore immaculate with about 5 patches no scrubbing!!

Happy new Year!
Bull

 

I had a smith stone the hammer, trigger parts, put in a #12 lb. spring on the hammer, didn't touch springs on the trigger. TOTALLY different revolver now, shoots so smooth! Good luck, you will love it!!

788 Ham, thank you, that is good information. I will try that because I am used to Classic S&W's, This is my first venture with a Ruger revolver. So far it's not a good one.
I really like this SP but if I can't hit anything with it because of this crappy trigger, it won't be around here long. After shooting it for a while and I pick up one of my Smiths they almost or do go off before I'm ready.
I will find a gun smith and have him do a stone job on it.
thanks again.