Thanks for your reply depoloni, like you, I've been using sharpies for years , so yes your right they are easy and convenient. I have a whole color code system to indicate type of load etc. I have even used paint pencils to color around the extractor groove and paint bullet tips, strippers etc. It all comes off in the tumble and just adds another step to the process later, but I accepted it as the method of flexibility.
When I go to the range with a couple rifles to chrono loads out of each, it becomes a pain to sometimes keep em separate because I typically dump all fired and range pickups into a waist bag for later tumbling. I suppose having separate plastic boxes for each rifle would be the next step and not keep more than a couple hundred fired cases around for each rifle (which I probably wouldn't do anyway).
I could also use nickle for one and go buy some Hornady black nickle for the other. Or maybe just use Norma brass in one, Fed in another and LC Match in another. There are a lot of possibilities but if I can do permanantly colored brass, I would like to try it just to be different.
As you say, the chemical process may alter the crystalline structure, like amonia and other cleaners are well known to do. What info I found was more oriented toward artists and metal workers. If it were something commonly done by reloaders, you would see it at the range and there would be more info around about doing it, and since there isn't, it might not be a good thing to do, that is why i am asking here first.
What set me off on this path was picking up some Hornady black nickle 223 at the range - at first I thought they were Wolf steel but when I glanced at the headstamp then inside at the single flash hole, I knew I would use them in my 700. Upon tumbling I noticed that the black started to lighten up as if whatever dark coating was used was rubbing thin. I thought about how I have a number of dark brass cases blackened from exposure to air or ones with dark MG link stains and they all shoot fine. I then stared wondering if I could color the brass for ID and here we are.
In case anyone is familiar with these chemicals... Here are a couple of recipie sites:
http://www.sciencecompany.com/patinas/patinaformulas.htm
http://chestofbooks.com/reference/...as-Recipes-Processes-Vol1/Brass-Coloring.html
and a couple of same question asked on gun boards - that I seem to have missed in my initial searh efforts.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=47661
and...
===================================
Thought you might like to have a bit of fun with your brass, so heres something for you
Re: Colored Brass
The Coloring of Brass
by Royce W. Beal
written on 17 March 1995 specifically for the readers
of the rec.guns newsgroup.
questions should be directed to me at SLQZ4~CC.USU.EDU
Read this entire essay before attempting any one
treatment. If you choose to just "cut and paste" part
of this, please make sure you get the safety instructions
and warnings after the recipes. Under no circumstances
do I consider myself liable for any accidents which occur
while using any of these chemicals. Also, I do not consider
myself an expert in this field and am still doing research
for the FAQ. This will be a temporary article. Because I
am still experimenting, I cannot vouch for all of these
colors.
Concentrations and conditions Do matter. (Concentration
is more important than actual volume, so if you want to
use less, make sure that you use proportionately less of
each ingredient) If you want good results follow the
recipes closely. Above all it is important that the brass
surfaces be clean. This means an extra hour or so in the
tumbler for the cases and then touch them only sparingly.
I have tried to collate recipes which will require the
acquisition of the more common chemicals. I have also tried
to steer clear of the really hazardous arsenic and cyanide
salts (which you probably can't get anyway) If you feel
that you've been cheated by this, please refer to the
references section of this report and find the books for
yourself in any well stocked library.
It is my understanding that these are all surface
coatings and should not damage or weaken the brass.
obviously you will want to do this treatment with unprimed
brass. Do NoT USE METAL UTENSILS (ok maybe stainless steel)
Glass or Plastic containers are the preference. If you are
really worried about what this is going to do to your brass,
refer again to the reference section below.
TIFFANY GREEN:
Copper Sulfate................. 8 ounces
Ammonium Chloride......... .....4 ounces
Sodium Chloride........... .....4 ounces
Zinc Chloride............. .....l ounce
Acetic Acid............... .....2 ounces
Water..................... .....l gallon
VERDE:
Copper Nitrate................. 16 ounces
Ammonium Chloride.............. 4 ounces
Acetic Acid.................... l quart
Water.......................... l gallon
GREEN:
Iron ( ferric) Nitrate......... 2 ounces ( Fe(III)(No3)3)
Sodium Hyposulphite............ 8 ounces
Water.......................... 1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature, brass can be immersed
or the solution may be "painted" on)
HARDWARE GREEN:
Iron (ferric) Nitrate.......... l ounce (Fe(III)(No3)3)
Sodium Thiosulfate............. 6 ounces
Water.......................... l gallon
(use at 160F)
RED:
Iron (ferric) Nitrate.......... 6 ounces (Fe(III)(No3)3)
Sodium hyposulphite............ 6 ounces
Water
(use at 170F will speed up this reaction)
BLUE:
Sodium Hyposulphite............ 8 ounces
Lead Acetate................... 4 ounces
Water.......................... l gallon
(use at boiling temperature)
or
Lead Acetate................... 2 to 4 ounces
Sodium Thiosulfate............. 8 ounces
Acetic Acid.................... 4 ounces
Water.......................... l gallon
(use at 180F. This color will change if
not lacquered [Do NoT LACQUER FIREARM CARTRIDGES]
Take your chances with the color change.)
BLUE BLACK:
Copper Carbonate............... 1 pound
Ammonium Hydroxide............. l quart
Water.......................... 3 quarts
(Add the water after the carbonate and hydroxide
have been mixed. There must be excess Copper
Carbonate. Use at 175F. This color can be fixed
(made more permanent) by quickly dipping in a 2.5%
Sodium Hydroxide solution.)
BLACK:
Ammonium Hydrosulfide........... 2.25 ounces
Potassium sulfide............... 1 ounce
Water........................... 1 gallon
(use at room temperature or COOLER for best results)
BROWN:
Potassium Chlorate.............. 5.5 ounces
Nickel Sulfate.................. 2.75 ounces
Copper Sulfate.................. 24 ounces
Water........................... 1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature)
SAFETY:
1. NEVER taste any of these chemicals.
2. Keep very far out of the reach of children.
3. Most Nitrates are good oxidizing agents and
should not be stored with anything flammable.
4. Acetic Acid has a VERY strong pungent odor.
Use in well ventilated areas. This acid can
be airborne in vapor form. If you feel that
you have breathed enough of it to feel
uncomfortable, leave the area and drink a
carbonated soft drink. "Have a Coke" Do not
underestimate this chemical.
5. Many of these chemicals may stain your skin or
clothing. Wear rubber gloves and protective
clothing including glasses of some sort.
6. Steam can cause serious burns. Solutions of salts
can actually exceed the boiling point of water.
The steam from these solutions can be very dangerous.
BE CAREFUL WITH STEAM AND BoILING SoLUTIoNS.
7. Feel free to change concentrations for experimentation
purposes but do not change the ingredients in any
one recipe.
8. Always be fully awake and alert around chemicals.
CONVERSIONS AND INTERPRETATIONS:
Ounces are assumably troy ounces, even when dealing
with liquids or solutions. Do not use fluid ounces.
1 ounce = 31.103 grams = 480 grains
1 quart = 0.25 gallon = 946.4 mL
1 gallon = 3.78S L
REFERENCES:
Meyer, Walter R. title: Plating and Finishing Guidebook
ninth edition - 1940 pp.72-75 (cited)
Metal Finishing Guidebook-twenty-eighth edition - 1960
article by Hall, Nathaniel
Title: Coloring of Metals pp. 477-479 (cited)
Krause, Hugo title: Metal Coloring and Finishing
Hiorns, A. H. title: Metal Coloring
Field, S and Bonney, S.R.
title: Chemical Coloring of Metals (not cited)
=====================================
Maybe just dipping the necks would be a start since they can be annealed again.
If I can determine if any of this is really safe and the chemicals are easily found in small quantities for experimentations then I may try a few.
krylon
Try it and see for yourself.
