Colt Delta Elite 10mm- weak gun?
- Thread starter munk
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stans
Member
Thank you Mr. Smith, I did mean overloads by "into orbit". I think the 1911 design will handle loads that do not exceed SAMMI specs. Beyond that, you do need full case head support. Maybe a 1911 with a ramped barrel would fit that bill, but I have seen such barrels throated so much to gain reliability that the case head support is almost where it was with the standard type barrel. Of course, if you are pushing the 10mm beyond SAMMI specs, you could do it in a safer fashion by getting something chambered in 44 Magnum. With all the caliber options available, I see little reason to push a cartridge beyond its design specifications.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Cracked Up?
Watching this one...I'd about have to bet that the most likely part to
develop a crack would be in the slide...in the ejection port adjacent to the locking lug... from the extractor channel to the starboard side...and possibly
in the breechface from the firing pin hole to the extractor channel.
Also a distinct possibility of the lower barrel lug cracking at the rear from
hitting the impact surface in the frame under the added stress of the Big 10...at the front of the lower lug from the return to battery propelled by a 22-pound recoil spring, along with a crack developing at the bottom of the slidestop pinhole in the frame, and at the junction of the dust cover and the rails from the dust cover flexing upward under the impact of slide and frame. That one can be forestalled by having enough clearance between the top of the dust cover and the bottom of the slide...about .010 oughta
suffice.
Interesting thread. I don't have much experience with the ins and outs unique to the 10mm in the 1911 platform...We just don't see many in my neck of the woods, but the basics remain the same. ANY increase in pressure and momentum is going to put additional stresses on the gun, and accelerate its demise. No way around that one.
Cheers!
Tuner
Watching this one...I'd about have to bet that the most likely part to
develop a crack would be in the slide...in the ejection port adjacent to the locking lug... from the extractor channel to the starboard side...and possibly
in the breechface from the firing pin hole to the extractor channel.
Also a distinct possibility of the lower barrel lug cracking at the rear from
hitting the impact surface in the frame under the added stress of the Big 10...at the front of the lower lug from the return to battery propelled by a 22-pound recoil spring, along with a crack developing at the bottom of the slidestop pinhole in the frame, and at the junction of the dust cover and the rails from the dust cover flexing upward under the impact of slide and frame. That one can be forestalled by having enough clearance between the top of the dust cover and the bottom of the slide...about .010 oughta
suffice.
Interesting thread. I don't have much experience with the ins and outs unique to the 10mm in the 1911 platform...We just don't see many in my neck of the woods, but the basics remain the same. ANY increase in pressure and momentum is going to put additional stresses on the gun, and accelerate its demise. No way around that one.
Cheers!
Tuner
Tamara
Senior Member
1911Tuner,
The "legendary Delta crack" (and they did occur on early ones) happened in the same place that early Star PD's cracked their frames. Colt copied a page out of Star's playbook. The frame cracks stopped. Just another page for your notebook.
The "legendary Delta crack" (and they did occur on early ones) happened in the same place that early Star PD's cracked their frames. Colt copied a page out of Star's playbook. The frame cracks stopped. Just another page for your notebook.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Legendary Crack
The "legendary Delta crack" (and they did occur on early ones) happened in the same place that early Star PD's cracked their frames.
Ahhhh...Thanks Tamara. Most of those frame cracks went just so far and
stopped on their own. I've got 1911s with cracked frames that I check-drilled 25 years ago, and they haven't moved since. I guess I'll get around
to havin'em tigged up one day...
The "legendary Delta crack" (and they did occur on early ones) happened in the same place that early Star PD's cracked their frames.
Ahhhh...Thanks Tamara. Most of those frame cracks went just so far and
stopped on their own. I've got 1911s with cracked frames that I check-drilled 25 years ago, and they haven't moved since. I guess I'll get around
to havin'em tigged up one day...
Tamara
Senior Member
1911Tuner,
Or you could just cut out that teeny section of frame rail like Star and Colt did. Doesn't seem to hurt anything.
(Apparently they got sick and tired of sending these frames back to owners with notes saying "That crack is no big deal. Ignore it." and getting frantic phone calls in response, so they just removed the offending section of frame altogether. There! That oughta teach 'em! )
I've got 1911s with cracked frames that I check-drilled 25 years ago, and they haven't moved since. I guess I'll get around
to havin'em tigged up one day...
Or you could just cut out that teeny section of frame rail like Star and Colt did. Doesn't seem to hurt anything.
(Apparently they got sick and tired of sending these frames back to owners with notes saying "That crack is no big deal. Ignore it." and getting frantic phone calls in response, so they just removed the offending section of frame altogether. There! That oughta teach 'em!
)Sean Smith
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- Dec 28, 2002
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stans
Member
That certainly does appear to have more case head support. My stock Colt barrel allows 0.225" of brass, as measured from the back of the rim to the edge of the chamber, to sit out in open air. Another way of measuring, from the forward edge of the extractor groove, gives a measurement of 0.080".
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Cracked Bridge
Tamara Wrote:
Or you could just cut out that teeny section of frame rail like Star and Colt did. Doesn't seem to hurt anything.
--------------------------------
That one never bothered me...When I found it on any gun that belonged to me, I just cut it out. I've been takin' that section of the bridge out since
the mid-70s...which puts me ahead of my time...dontcha think?
The cracks that I check-drill are at the dust cover, around the slidestop
pin hole, and have even check-drilled one in a slide in the top of the port,
in the left hand corner. That one I did have tigged, and the pistol has
been just fine ever since, though I don't shoot it an awful lot any more...
maybe 500 rounds a year total.
Tamara Wrote:
Or you could just cut out that teeny section of frame rail like Star and Colt did. Doesn't seem to hurt anything.
--------------------------------
That one never bothered me...When I found it on any gun that belonged to me, I just cut it out. I've been takin' that section of the bridge out since
the mid-70s...which puts me ahead of my time...dontcha think?
The cracks that I check-drill are at the dust cover, around the slidestop
pin hole, and have even check-drilled one in a slide in the top of the port,
in the left hand corner. That one I did have tigged, and the pistol has
been just fine ever since, though I don't shoot it an awful lot any more...
maybe 500 rounds a year total.
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