Quantcast
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

concealed gun greying

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by gungin, Jun 5, 2010.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. gungin

    gungin Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2009
    Messages:
    5
    I have a conceal carry compact 1911 that I wear on a fairly regular basis. I have only had it for 4 months but I notice it is greying. Its a black firearm and I was wondering if there are ways to prevent this from happening. I use FP-10 to clean my gun and a silicone cloth to wipe it down afterwards. I've only owned guns for a year and half so I'm still learning.

    Thanks for the help guys.
     
  2. BBQLS1

    BBQLS1 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2008
    Messages:
    978
    If you use a firearm, it's going to look used. It gives it character.

    Providing a finish or picture might help.
     
  3. KodiakBeer

    KodiakBeer member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    3,276
    Location:
    Kodiak, AK
    Is it greying where it comes in contact with the holster or all over? Those cheap plastic holsters (kydex?) are hell on gun finishes.
     
  4. gungin

    gungin Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2009
    Messages:
    5
    I've tried taking a picture but it doesnt show up very well. And I do not mind the gun looking used or having character, more concerned with making sure I am properly caring for my gun.

    I do use a kydex as the holster, which might be my problem. The greying seems to be just on the slide. Both sides, the side thats in contact with the holster and the exposed side.

    Maybe I need to invest in a better holster? I wouldn't be the silicone cloth or any other possible cleaning agents doing this, I have used other cleaning agents besides the FP-10 in the past.
     
  5. KodiakBeer

    KodiakBeer member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    3,276
    Location:
    Kodiak, AK
    Yeah, get rid of the plastic holster and get a leather one.

    I've never had a problem with any cleaning agent. It's the plastic holster.
     
  6. Mags

    Mags Member

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2009
    Messages:
    3,235
    Location:
    Belgium
    Simple rule:
    Leather holsters for metal guns.
    Plastic holster are ok for plastic guns.
     
  7. AK103K

    AK103K Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2002
    Messages:
    5,774
    Its been my experience that leather is what causes more "overall" wear to a guns finish than kydex, which usually only wears the finish at the contact points.

    Leather tends to be in more contact with the guns finish than kydex. Leather also tends to hold or embed dirt and abrasives in the leather, where kydex does not. The other issue with leather is moisture, another issue kydex doesnt have.

    Regardless what holster you use, they all will wear a handguns finish over time, and your gun will also start to get beat up from day to day run ins with everything and anything. Its just inevitable and the way life is. If thats an issue, you should find another gun to carry that youre not as worried about.
     
  8. KodiakBeer

    KodiakBeer member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    3,276
    Location:
    Kodiak, AK
    I've got an 1896 Webley and a 1918 Remington little to no discernible holster wear. I've carried a Kimber in leather for 13 years with no holster wear on the finish. Any dings or blemishes are due to hard usage, not from the holster.

    "Kydex" and "Polymer" are just other words for hard plastic, and used by the manufacturer to get you to pay twenty nine bucks for their two dollar item. Hard things (plastic or otherwise) will scratch the finish, while soft things won't. Moisture isn't an issue. If your holster is wet (leather or otherwise), dry it out. Wipe your gun down every evening.
     
  9. 230therapy

    230therapy Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2008
    Messages:
    764
    Location:
    Virginia
    It should look like this:

    TRSRTimer.jpg

    If it does not look like this, then you are not fully utilizing your gun and training your skills. It's a gun for fighting, not an "investment". "Investments" belong in the safe.

    There is no rust visible on this gun. Simply wipe it down periodically. If it gets wet or you see sweat on it at the end of the day, then you'll need to wipe the sweat away and replace with a bit of oil or grease. I clean mine at least every thirty days of carry. I also do a lint check...too much lint means it gets cleaned.

    Here's the full set of photos:

    http://forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=2495105&postcount=52
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2010
  10. 230therapy

    230therapy Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2008
    Messages:
    764
    Location:
    Virginia
    It keeps getting dirtier:

    TRS5.jpg
     
  11. 230therapy

    230therapy Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2008
    Messages:
    764
    Location:
    Virginia
  12. AK103K

    AK103K Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2002
    Messages:
    5,774
    I see you must not sweat much, and/or dont live and carry in a warm, moist environment. Moisture is a very BIG issue for those of us who do. I dont know how you "dry" your holsters out, but they dont dry out overnight by themselves, and most of the time, they dont dry out at all, even when used in rotation, as I used to do. In about 25 years of using leather holsters daily, I never made it through a summer without rust being an issue that required constant attention, and some to the point of having pits polished out and guns refinished every couple of years. Hard chrome and kydex stopped most of that.

    I used to go through two to three good, brand name leather holsters each year. Summer was always the hardest on them, and my guns, and once they were wet, they usually stayed wet until the weather broke. On average, it was costing me about $150 a year in holsters. My first Blade Tech was used daily, for over 10 years, and cost me about $50. While it was retired about 10 years ago now, I still have it, and its still as serviceable as the first time I put it on.

    This is the Colt Commander that was in it for those 10+ years. It started out as a nice, deep, Colt blue, and lasted almost a year in that finish in a couple of Galco Royal Guards. The first hot summer month, its slide, and along and under the grips, were rusted heavy enough to require the services of a gunsmith to correct it. The finish on the rest of the gun that wasnt rusted, was already getting that washed out look you often see with guns that get a lot of use in leather holsters. At that point, I had it hard chromed and picked up my first Blade Tech IWB. The gun was carried daily and shot (from that holster) weekly for the next 10+ years. The black streaks you see on the gun are actually polished chrome, from contact with the holster. Thats ALL the wear (over 10+ years), and if you look, some small dusting of surface rust around the grips (safety side) where the holster didnt cover the gun. Other than that, the rest of the finish pretty much looks as it did the first day I got it back from being hard chromed.

    ry%3D400.jpg
    ry%3D400.jpg


    Same gun and the holster (on right). The holster on left was a new, unused back up.
    ry%3D400.jpg

    This is the last Royal Guard I used before switching. Its got about a month of use on it. The tape was a feeble attempt at stopping/slowing the sweat from soaking through the leather. it didnt work.

    ry%3D400.jpg
    ry%3D400.jpg

    I know we dont all have the same lifestyle, and our use may be very different, but if you have an active lifestyle, and work, live, and play in a harsh environment, kydex is by far, is the better material if you want your gun (as well as your body) to be protected. Those few streaks of wear on the gun are NOTHING, compared to what it looked like (due to riding in a leather holster) just before it was refinished. I've since carried a number of SIG's, including older, blued guns, pretty much exclusively in Blade Tech holsters, and not a spec of rust, and very little holster wear on any of them.
     
  13. bigfatdave

    bigfatdave Member

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2008
    Messages:
    5,961
    Location:
    Near Camp Perry
    You're mistaking Kydex (which is a thermoplastic) for injection-molded junk (like a lot of the Fobus line).

    Try doing the stuff that you can do with Kydex with leather or injection-molded plastic and NOT adding lots of labor, bulk, or weight. Add in that the stuff is fairly cheap and I just don't get the hostility towards it ... Kydex is great stuff for any kind of custom-molded job requiring a tight fit and conformity to odd shapes. And for the record, the side of the guns that live in Kydex/leather hybrid holsters that wears most is ... ... THE LEATHER SIDE.
    I suspect your antiques with little wear are carried in loose OWB/shoulder holsters, KodiakBeer? Perhaps their wear is due to little abrasion, not the material they're sitting in.
     
  14. 230therapy

    230therapy Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2008
    Messages:
    764
    Location:
    Virginia
    Love that Royal Guard...looks like it's just starting to get comfy :)
     
  15. Deus Machina

    Deus Machina Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2007
    Messages:
    2,223
    Location:
    Brandon, Florida
    Plastic will wear a finish quicker than leather, and cheap plastic faster than kydex.

    I'm not a fan of plastic holsters, anyway, especially on proper metal guns. They don't blank out the shape, and just feel... lifeless. Metal guns, 1911's in particular, seem to develop a personality or 'soul' of their own, over time.

    If you use leather, spray the inside with dry silicone lubricant. It will help is smooth out, and keep it slick.

    Another question--what finish is it?
    If it's matte blued, it's wearing in and smoothing.
    If it's gloss or brushed blued, it's just wearing into the top layer. Perfectly normal.
    If it's stainless, it's wearing or oxidizing (some stainless still does, to no ill effects).
    If it's parkerized, the finish has lost its oil--wipe it down with some light gun oil and let it sit wet overnight. It will retain some of that and darken back up.
     
  16. The Bushmaster

    The Bushmaster Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2005
    Messages:
    7,868
    Location:
    Ava, Missouri
    AK103K...Next time try a horse hide holster...I live in a humid clime and carry almost 24/7 (I have to sleep sometime).
     
  17. AK103K

    AK103K Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2002
    Messages:
    5,774
    I believe the Royal Guards are horsehide. Unfortunately, also in the worst configuration, "rough out", which just soaks up moisture like a sponge. Regarless what leather it is, it still cant beat kydex for protection of both your gun and your body.

    230therapy, it was pretty comfy. Unfortunately, what youre looking at there, is a month old holster that already has that years old, worn in look.
     
  18. KodiakBeer

    KodiakBeer member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    3,276
    Location:
    Kodiak, AK
    We have two seasons - the rainy season and July. If you wear a leather holster, the trick is saddle soap it once in a while to remove any dirt or salts due to sweat, followed by mink oil. That keeps the leather more or less impermeable.
     
  19. KodiakBeer

    KodiakBeer member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    3,276
    Location:
    Kodiak, AK
    It's all injection molded plastic, thermo or not. It doesn't make sense to spend all that money on a gun and then stick it in a cheap plastic holster that wears the finish off. A carry gun gets plenty of normal wear and tear without adding to the problem.
     
  20. DFW1911

    DFW1911 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2006
    Messages:
    1,231
    Location:
    Hill Country, TX
    :confused:

    There is no possible way this statement can be substantiated.

    With respect, the condition of a gun is not an indication of the shooter's practice, prowess, or abilities.

    JMHO; YMMV.
     
  21. General Geoff

    General Geoff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2006
    Messages:
    5,072
    Location:
    Allentown, Pennsylvania
    Not necessarily, but it often is.
     
  22. Caliper_Mi

    Caliper_Mi Member

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2009
    Messages:
    1,625
    Location:
    Michigan
    This is why I insisted on getting my PF9 in a parkerized or hard chrome finish. At this point in time I just wanted something that I didn't really have to worry about the finish on.

    Those worn-in 1911's look great though. You guys remind me that I need to visit the range more!
     
  23. AK103K

    AK103K Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2002
    Messages:
    5,774
    Like I said, you must not sweat much or get your holster actually "wet", through and through, like some of us do. I've tried Sno Seal, mink Oil, and just about any of the other leather waterproofing sealers at one time or another over the years, with no luck. Most of that type stuff doesnt work on boots either, and just like with boots, its usually very short lived on anything that actually gets wet. The one guarantee is, leather is NOT impermeable. A Goretex liner, or something similar would be a better option.

    As far as saddle soap goes, I've never been able to understand exactly what it really does. At least, its never worked for me, and I seriously doubt its going to remove any embedded dirt from leather, and if anything, just rub it in more. Thats also assuming you might even be able to reach it inside the holster in the first place.

    The kydex holsters and sheaths I own were not injection molded. Even the couple of "plastic" holsters I do own that appear to be, dont wear the finish on my guns like leather does/did, and only show wear at specific contact points, instead of overall. Leather definitely shows more wear in that respect, and more of the finish is affected.
     
  24. KodiakBeer

    KodiakBeer member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2010
    Messages:
    3,276
    Location:
    Kodiak, AK
    My 100 year old firearms would differ with you.
     
  25. AK103K

    AK103K Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2002
    Messages:
    5,774
    Hard chrome, or something similar, is your best bet. Park isnt much better than blue for rust prevention, and can actually look a lot nastier than blue as it wears.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page