Considering Progressive Press

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I cannot believe that I have only had the LNL for three and months. I have loaded 1500 rounds of 38 special and approximately 4,000 rounds of 9mm. I am still having trouble keeping up with the 9mm demands of this family. Another 4500 rounds of lead just arrived the other day. I took a break from reloading for a bit because hunting season has been in full swing. However, the press has been fantastic. It is really nice to be able to crank out 400 rounds in an hour. I could probably go faster, but then I would have to purchase more primer tubes. Right now I have four tubes.

Just a wonderful piece of equipment. I wish I could keep that damn bolt holding my plate tight. Other than that and the occasional primer not getting seated (and then leaking powder all over the bottom of the plate), it is flawless. Even these two issues are becoming rare as I can feel on the stroke when something is not right. Just like I can feel the occasional 380 auto brass finding its way onto my press ( I am range brass rat).

I am very tempted to consider a brass feeder. Although I may not have the height in the basement, and boy, they are not cheap.

Anyone that is on a single stage or a turret and considering a progressive; let me just say that it is a no brainer. Just get ready to buy everything in bulk. Pete

Get a 3/8" lock washer and put it between the flat washer and the bolt head. It will not come loose again.
What's leaking powder? Also check under the primer punch and see if you are getting a divot in the frame. If you are get a set of cheap automotive feeler gauges and take the .010" or 012" one and use a little superglue and glue to frame so punch hits it.
 
Get a 3/8" lock washer and put it between the flat washer and the bolt head. It will not come loose again.
What's leaking powder? Also check under the primer punch and see if you are getting a divot in the frame. If you are get a set of cheap automotive feeler gauges and take the .010" or 012" one and use a little superglue and glue to frame so punch hits it.
I place a single edge razor blade where the primer pin hits, instead of a feeler gauge.
:D
 
Just a wonderful piece of equipment. I wish I could keep that damn bolt holding my plate tight. Other than that and the occasional primer not getting seated (and then leaking powder all over the bottom of the plate), it is flawless. Even these two issues are becoming rare as I can feel on the stroke when something is not right. Just like I can feel the occasional 380 auto brass finding its way onto my press ( I am range brass rat).

Pete

I've had mine since 2003 and had the problems with the bolt coming loose till I got the Hornady tool to keep the shell plate from moving when tightening. Since I've been using the tool I never have a problem. I would like to be able to examine a press that is having that problem. All my friends that have these LNL-AP do not have this problem. Strange that some do and some don't. Is your bolt a allen head cap screw or std hex head? One thing you might try is make sure the threads are clean of oil.
 
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I suggest using a Belleville Disc Spring or Wave Washer instead of a lock washer.
That'll do it. Good stuff.

I just use a plain washer, but it does loosen every once in a while. I just keep an eye on it. It changes how the plate advances if it loosens up, so we should notice it right away.
 
I think this is the first thread I have ever read that had MORE Hornady users than Dillion.

I have posted this before. I just thought it might be helpful to anyone looking for a progressive press.


Which is Better? What’s best?

This question usually ignites a firestorm of of "Blue verses Red verses etc." What you are going to find is very few people that have actually loaded on BOTH DILLON AND HORNADY. I have loaded on the Dillon SDB, 550, 650, 1050 and the Hornady LNL.

I currently own a Hornady LNL and a Dillon SDB. (Along with RCBS, MEC and Ponsness Warren, LOL!)


Here is my perspective:


Dillon Precision has been on the market since late 1970’s or early 1980 and have set the standard for outstanding customer service. Hornady started business in 1949 producing bullets. In 1971 they started producing reloading equipment. Other manufacturers have since copied Dillon’s wonderful customer service. As a result of customer service, Dillon users are very dedicated to their blue presses. Speaking from experience, I can also unequivocally state, based on my experience, that HORNADY has equal customer service.

Dillon presses are EXCEPTIONAL and do an exceptional job reloading. The competition to the Dillon is the Hornady Lock and Load Auto Progressive. Because most of the Dillon users are so satisfied, when you ask the question “Which is better?”, you get swamped with comments like, "The Hornady LNL is Junk!" If you asked if they have ever loaded on the LNL and 99.9% said no. When I did find someone that had experience with both presses, most liked the LNL and some had sold their Dillon's and bought the LNL. However, there have also been those that sold their red presses and bought blue. You just have to decide what you like best. Some times it’s just the color, red or blue!!


IMHO the Dillon has one major shortcoming and, most Dillon owners will agree if they are honest. The Dillon powder measure is sorely lacking in ease of use and adjustability. It is sliding bar type measure. It meters ball type powder well but, flake type powder less so. Extruded stick type powder is VERY troublesome. To be fair, extruded powder is difficult in all powder measures, irregardless of design. Be advised that flake powder has been known to “leak” around the Dillon sliding bar as it is activated back and forth. Particularly if the sliding bar is worn. The LNL powder measure is a rotary barrel design that handles all types of powder MUCH better than the Dillon. A rotary barrel is the same design used by RCBS, Sinclair and other manufacturers. I have never heard of a rotary type measure “leak”. Also, it is a pain to swap out the Dillon powder measure to another die plate. As a result, many owners have several powder measures on separate die plates for changing calibers. This significantly drives UP the COST. I have never heard of a LNL owner that has more than one powder measure. There is no need. It is easy to adjust. Many LNL owners, myself included, own several "Powder Dies" that are pre-adjusted to load a specific case. (Note: Powder measure fits into the Powder Die.) Each LNL powder die costs about $20+. A Dillon powder measure costs $75+.


Also, IMHO, the Dillon de-priming/priming system is less reliable than the LNL. With the Dillon system, spent primers drop through the bottom of the shell plate into a small cup. It is an “open” system and is easy to empty. However, the press gets dirty with carbon. Whenever carbon/dust/dirt or “primer dust” fouls the primer seating station this causes "flipped" or "skipped" primers. The DILLON de-priming system works well provided it is kept CLEAN. With the Hornady LNL, spent primers are dropped completely through the press into a plastic tube and into the trash or bottle or whatever you want to use. It is a “closed” system. You never get carbon in and around the bottom of the shell plate. The point is the dirt off the spent primers does not foul the workings of the press. I have never had a “flipped” primer. Although, I have had “missed” primers that I feel were operator error (ME!) and not the fault of the primer system. (I forgot to seat the primer!) In all fairness, the LNL primer seating station will also not work properly if the primer slide is fouled with dirt or powder. Please note that neither Dillon or LNL primer systems will work flawlessly unless they are adjusted properly. Users of BOTH systems have expressed exasperation with these adjustments.


If you want a “Powder Check” system you need a press with at least five stations. The Dillon Square Deal and Dillon 550 both have 4 die stations. The LNL and Dillon 650 both have 5 stations. However, the 650 costs significantly more than the LNL. The Dillon 1050 is really an industrial machine and has eight stations.


How the presses indexes is an issue for some people. In reading the web about "KABOOMS" (Blowing up a gun!!), many of the kabooms I have read about were directly traced back to a manually indexing press. This is not the fault of the press but, operator error. However, with a manually indexing press, If you get distracted while reloading, you can easily double charge a pistol case. (A double charge will depend on the powder you are using and the charge weight.) IMHO, a double charge is less of a problem with auto-indexing presses. The Hornady LNL, Dillon 650 and, Dillon Square Deal auto index. The MOST POPULAR Dillon press, the 550, is a manually indexing press. Some people prefer manual, some people prefer auto.


In addition, the LNL auto indexing is significantly smoother than the Dillon 650. The LNL indexes 1/2 step while the ram is going up and 1/2 step when the ram goes down. The 650 indexes a full step on the ram down stroke and can cause pistol cases to spill SMALL AMOUNTS or powder with the indexing "bump". IMHO, the LNL is dramatically better. Of course, the amount of powder "bumped" from a case is dependent on the powder charge, operator and, speed of reloading. As I stated above, you get primer problems with a dirty press. "Bumped" powder fouls BOTH Dillon and LNL.


Next, the LNL uses a really slick bushing system for mounting loading dies and powder measure to the press. It makes changing calibers and SNAP. After a die is adjusted for whatever you are loading you can remove the die from the press with an 1/8 turn and insert a different die. Each die has it's own bushing. The Dillon uses a die plate that has the powder measure and all loading dies installed. The Dillon die plate costs more than LNL bushings. Another neat feature with the Hornady is that you can buy a bushing conversion setup and use the same bushings on your RCBS, Lyman or other single stage press and the LNL!


Additionally, the LNL seems to be built like a tank! The ram is about 2"+ in diameter and the basic press is similar in construction to the RCBS Rock Chucker. I would say that a side-by-side comparison to the either the Dillon 550 OR 650, the LNL is at least as sturdily built. And, in some areas I think the LNL is better built. i.e., The massive ram, powder measure, and primer system. The head/top of the press is solid except for where the dies are inserted. The Dillon has a large cutout that is needed for their die plates. By just looking, it would seem the LNL would be stronger. But, of course, that may not be the case.


There is one piece that can get damaged on the LNL. There is a coil spring that holds the cases in the shell holder that can get crushed if you improperly change shell holders. That's the bad news. The good news is that they are only about $2-3 for three and they won't get crushed if you change shell plates correctly. Also, recently Hornady sends these out as a warranty item free of charge. The other good news is that this spring is the primary reason while loading you can easily remove a case at any station. The spring is durable if it is not abused. I have been using my current retainer spring for about 2 years. I have loaded at least 12,000 rounds in that time. With the Dillon you have to remove small individual brass pins in order to take a shell out of a shell plate. My fingers require needle-nose pliers or forceps to remove the brass pins. It is a PITA.


(For the next discussion keep in mind that BOTH DILLON AND LNL shell plates rotate CLOCKWISE.)


Another item to think about. For NON-CASE FEEDER users; all Dillon presses (Except 1050) require you to use BOTH hands to insert brass and bullets on the press. The Dillon 650, 550 and, SDB operates as follows;


1. Right hand inserts an empty case at the right, front side of the press.

2. Left hand then sets the bullet on the case mouth at the left, rear side of the press.

3. Right hand then activates the operating handle.

4. For Dillon 550 only, Left hand manually rotates shell plate.

5. You then release the operating handle and insert another case with your right hand and so forth. (Right, left, right, left, right, left)


(Note: With the Dillon 550 you also have to manually rotate the shell plate at step 4. Most people do this with their LEFT hand.)


With the Dillon, “right-left-right-left” hand operating procedure, clockwise rotation and, the fact that you start your loading process at the front, right side of the press, your bullet seating die is at the rear, left side of the press. Why is this important? The Dillon powder measure drops powder into the case and the case is rotated clockwise to the REAR of the press to the bullet seating die. It is very difficult to see inside of the case to see the gunpowder. Many Dillon owners rig up flashlight, mirror or, believe it or not, a video camera to “look” into the case to see the powder charge.


With the LNL you start your loading process at the REAR, left side of the press. As your case rotates clockwise, after the powder is dropped, your case is directly in the front of the press and the bullet is seated directly in front of the person operating the press. Is is VERY EASY to look directly into the case to see the powder charge. Even though I use a “Powder Check” die. I look directly into each case as I am loading. I have never had a squib load OR a double charge. This is not to say that it can’t happen. It can. I just haven’t experienced one.


Loading cases and bullets with the left hand is very natural to me. Others may really dislike this feature and prefer the right/left/right/left/right operation of Dillon. Please note that a case feeder eliminates this operation and both Dillon and LNL only load bullets on the left side of the press. Dillon at the back of the press and LNL at the front of the press.


Dillon Customer service is legendary. You can buy a used Dillon press that is a total wreak and they will rebuild or send you a new one for about $40-$50 bucks. Any parts you break will be replaced free of charge. Hornady service, in my experience, is equal. When I needed some replacement springs that broke do to age, Hornady replaced them free of charge. They will also rebuild your press if it needs it. I think most other manufacturers are matching Dillon’s service. Dillon raised the bar pretty high for customer service and other companies see how devoted customers are to the BLUE presses. I do feel that is one of the primary reasons Dillon’s prices are HIGH. But of course, I have no way of knowing.


You can load anything on both the Dillon and LNL from .25 ACP to 500 N.E. Realistically, I would say that people with progressive loaders mostly load pistol ammo 99% of the time. After using the LNL, I feel confident that my Grandkids will be using when I'm gone.


In summary, the Hornady LNL has all the features of the Dillon 650 but, is much cheaper. However, the Dillon automatic case feeder is about $50 cheaper than the Hornady. Changing calipers on the LNL is faster and cheaper. The powder measure on the LNL is VASTLY SUPERIOR TO THE DILLON, at least in my opinion. I bought the LNL and am very satisfied. A shooting buddy of mine is a long time, dedicated Dillon user. He has three! After giving me a ration of "stuff" about my choice, he came over and used my LNL and sheepishly said, "That's a very nice setup!!"
 
Waldog That right there is the BEST write up I have ever seen. I will agree both presses have their shortcomings, but both can be fixed.
But you are wrong on 1 point. You forgot to take into account for us "wackadodals"
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I cannot believe that I have only had the LNL for three and months. I have loaded 1500 rounds of 38 special and approximately 4,000 rounds of 9mm. I am still having trouble keeping up with the 9mm demands of this family. Another 4500 rounds of lead just arrived the other day. I took a break from reloading for a bit because hunting season has been in full swing. However, the press has been fantastic. It is really nice to be able to crank out 400 rounds in an hour. I could probably go faster, but then I would have to purchase more primer tubes. Right now I have four tubes.

Just a wonderful piece of equipment. I wish I could keep that damn bolt holding my plate tight. Other than that and the occasional primer not getting seated (and then leaking powder all over the bottom of the plate), it is flawless. Even these two issues are becoming rare as I can feel on the stroke when something is not right. Just like I can feel the occasional 380 auto brass finding its way onto my press ( I am range brass rat).

I am very tempted to consider a brass feeder. Although I may not have the height in the basement, and boy, they are not cheap.

Anyone that is on a single stage or a turret and considering a progressive; let me just say that it is a no brainer. Just get ready to buy everything in bulk. Pete
I have an LnL AP also, but I think you have just discovered why the LnL AP appears at first glance to be way cheaper than the Dillon 650XL. When they both have case feeders, they aren't that far apart. Pay now or pay later.
 
Also, it is a pain to swap out the Dillon powder measure to another die plate. As a result, many owners have several powder measures on separate die plates for changing calibers. This significantly drives UP the COST. I have never heard of a LNL owner that has more than one powder measure. There is no need. It is easy to adjust. Many LNL owners, myself included, own several "Powder Dies" that are pre-adjusted to load a specific case.

Lots of stuff covered but this one caught my attention. The reason I bought my first LNL (bought the 2nd to see if the EZ Ject was an improvement) was all of the reports of how much better the LNL measure was than the Dillon for use with extruded powders. I learned that neither one liked them very much.

There is also no “need” to own extra powder measures with a Dillon either, I too own several powder dies and leave the bars pre adjusted to swap the measure from one tool head to another.



As far as primer systems go, the only complaint of the 650 (most reliable IME) is that it ALWAYS feeds primers, not a problem for a progressive as I see it.
 
"Which is Better? What’s best?

This question usually ignites a firestorm of of "Blue verses Red verses etc." What you are going to find is very few people that have actually loaded on BOTH DILLON AND HORNADY. I have loaded on the Dillon SDB, 550, 650, 1050 and the Hornady LNL.

I currently own a Hornady LNL and a Dillon SDB. (Along with RCBS, MEC and Ponsness Warren, LOL!)


Here is my perspective:


Dillon Precision has been on the market since late 1970’s or early 1980 and have set the standard for outstanding customer service. Hornady started business in 1949 producing bullets. In 1971 they started producing reloading equipment. Other manufacturers have since copied Dillon’s wonderful customer service. As a result of customer service, Dillon users are very dedicated to their blue presses. Speaking from experience, I can also unequivocally state, based on my experience, that HORNADY has equal customer service.

Dillon presses are EXCEPTIONAL and do an exceptional job reloading. The competition to the Dillon is the Hornady Lock and Load Auto Progressive. Because most of the Dillon users are so satisfied, when you ask the question “Which is better?”, you get swamped with comments like, "The Hornady LNL is Junk!" If you asked if they have ever loaded on the LNL and 99.9% said no. When I did find someone that had experience with both presses, most liked the LNL and some had sold their Dillon's and bought the LNL. However, there have also been those that sold their red presses and bought blue. You just have to decide what you like best. Some times it’s just the color, red or blue!!


IMHO the Dillon has one major shortcoming and, most Dillon owners will agree if they are honest. The Dillon powder measure is sorely lacking in ease of use and adjustability. It is sliding bar type measure. It meters ball type powder well but, flake type powder less so. Extruded stick type powder is VERY troublesome. To be fair, extruded powder is difficult in all powder measures, irregardless of design. Be advised that flake powder has been known to “leak” around the Dillon sliding bar as it is activated back and forth. Particularly if the sliding bar is worn. The LNL powder measure is a rotary barrel design that handles all types of powder MUCH better than the Dillon. A rotary barrel is the same design used by RCBS, Sinclair and other manufacturers. I have never heard of a rotary type measure “leak”. Also, it is a pain to swap out the Dillon powder measure to another die plate. As a result, many owners have several powder measures on separate die plates for changing calibers. This significantly drives UP the COST. I have never heard of a LNL owner that has more than one powder measure. There is no need. It is easy to adjust. Many LNL owners, myself included, own several "Powder Dies" that are pre-adjusted to load a specific case. (Note: Powder measure fits into the Powder Die.) Each LNL powder die costs about $20+. A Dillon powder measure costs $75

Also, IMHO, the Dillon de-priming/priming system is less reliable than the LNL. With the Dillon system, spent primers drop through the bottom of the shell plate into a small cup. It is an “open” system and is easy to empty. However, the press gets dirty with carbon. Whenever carbon/dust/dirt or “primer dust” fouls the primer seating station this causes "flipped" or "skipped" primers. The DILLON de-priming system works well provided it is kept CLEAN. With the Hornady LNL, spent primers are dropped completely through the press into a plastic tube and into the trash or bottle or whatever you want to use. It is a “closed” system. You never get carbon in and around the bottom of the shell plate. The point is the dirt off the spent primers does not foul the workings of the press. I have never had a “flipped” primer. Although, I have had “missed” primers that I feel were operator error (ME!) and not the fault of the primer system. (I forgot to seat the primer!) In all fairness, the LNL primer seating station will also not work properly if the primer slide is fouled with dirt or powder. Please note that neither Dillon or LNL primer systems will work flawlessly unless they are adjusted properly. Users of BOTH systems have expressed exasperation with these adjustments.


If you want a “Powder Check” system you need a press with at least five stations. The Dillon Square Deal and Dillon 550 both have 4 die stations. The LNL and Dillon 650 both have 5 stations. However, the 650 costs significantly more than the LNL. The Dillon 1050 is really an industrial machine and has eight stations.


How the presses indexes is an issue for some people. In reading the web about "KABOOMS" (Blowing up a gun!!), many of the kabooms I have read about were directly traced back to a manually indexing press. This is not the fault of the press but, operator error. However, with a manually indexing press, If you get distracted while reloading, you can easily double charge a pistol case. (A double charge will depend on the powder you are using and the charge weight.) IMHO, a double charge is less of a problem with auto-indexing presses. The Hornady LNL, Dillon 650 and, Dillon Square Deal auto index. The MOST POPULAR Dillon press, the 550, is a manually indexing press. Some people prefer manual, some people prefer auto.


In addition, the LNL auto indexing is significantly smoother than the Dillon 650. The LNL indexes 1/2 step while the ram is going up and 1/2 step when the ram goes down. The 650 indexes a full step on the ram down stroke and can cause pistol cases to spill SMALL AMOUNTS or powder with the indexing "bump". IMHO, the LNL is dramatically better. Of course, the amount of powder "bumped" from a case is dependent on the powder charge, operator and, speed of reloading. As I stated above, you get primer problems with a dirty press. "Bumped" powder fouls BOTH Dillon and LNL.


Next, the LNL uses a really slick bushing system for mounting loading dies and powder measure to the press. It makes changing calibers and SNAP. After a die is adjusted for whatever you are loading you can remove the die from the press with an 1/8 turn and insert a different die. Each die has it's own bushing. The Dillon uses a die plate that has the powder measure and all loading dies installed. The Dillon die plate costs more than LNL bushings. Another neat feature with the Hornady is that you can buy a bushing conversion setup and use the same bushings on your RCBS, Lyman or other single stage press and the LNL!


Additionally, the LNL seems to be built like a tank! The ram is about 2"+ in diameter and the basic press is similar in construction to the RCBS Rock Chucker. I would say that a side-by-side comparison to the either the Dillon 550 OR 650, the LNL is at least as sturdily built. And, in some areas I think the LNL is better built. i.e., The massive ram, powder measure, and primer system. The head/top of the press is solid except for where the dies are inserted. The Dillon has a large cutout that is needed for their die plates. By just looking, it would seem the LNL would be stronger. But, of course, that may not be the case.


There is one piece that can get damaged on the LNL. There is a coil spring that holds the cases in the shell holder that can get crushed if you improperly change shell holders. That's the bad news. The good news is that they are only about $2-3 for three and they won't get crushed if you change shell plates correctly. Also, recently Hornady sends these out as a warranty item free of charge. The other good news is that this spring is the primary reason while loading you can easily remove a case at any station. The spring is durable if it is not abused. I have been using my current retainer spring for about 2 years. I have loaded at least 12,000 rounds in that time. With the Dillon you have to remove small individual brass pins in order to take a shell out of a shell plate. My fingers require needle-nose pliers or forceps to remove the brass pins. It is a PITA.


(For the next discussion keep in mind that BOTH DILLON AND LNL shell plates rotate CLOCKWISE.)


Another item to think about. For NON-CASE FEEDER users; all Dillon presses (Except 1050) require you to use BOTH hands to insert brass and bullets on the press. The Dillon 650, 550 and, SDB operates as follows;


1. Right hand inserts an empty case at the right, front side of the press.

2. Left hand then sets the bullet on the case mouth at the left, rear side of the press.

3. Right hand then activates the operating handle.

4. For Dillon 550 only, Left hand manually rotates shell plate.

5. You then release the operating handle and insert another case with your right hand and so forth. (Right, left, right, left, right, left)


(Note: With the Dillon 550 you also have to manually rotate the shell plate at step 4. Most people do this with their LEFT hand.)


With the Dillon, “right-left-right-left” hand operating procedure, clockwise rotation and, the fact that you start your loading process at the front, right side of the press, your bullet seating die is at the rear, left side of the press. Why is this important? The Dillon powder measure drops powder into the case and the case is rotated clockwise to the REAR of the press to the bullet seating die. It is very difficult to see inside of the case to see the gunpowder. Many Dillon owners rig up flashlight, mirror or, believe it or not, a video camera to “look” into the case to see the powder charge.


With the LNL you start your loading process at the REAR, left side of the press. As your case rotates clockwise, after the powder is dropped, your case is directly in the front of the press and the bullet is seated directly in front of the person operating the press. Is is VERY EASY to look directly into the case to see the powder charge. Even though I use a “Powder Check” die. I look directly into each case as I am loading. I have never had a squib load OR a double charge. This is not to say that it can’t happen. It can. I just haven’t experienced one.


Loading cases and bullets with the left hand is very natural to me. Others may really dislike this feature and prefer the right/left/right/left/right operation of Dillon. Please note that a case feeder eliminates this operation and both Dillon and LNL only load bullets on the left side of the press. Dillon at the back of the press and LNL at the front of the press.


Dillon Customer service is legendary. You can buy a used Dillon press that is a total wreak and they will rebuild or send you a new one for about $40-$50 bucks. Any parts you break will be replaced free of charge. Hornady service, in my experience, is equal. When I needed some replacement springs that broke do to age, Hornady replaced them free of charge. They will also rebuild your press if it needs it. I think most other manufacturers are matching Dillon’s service. Dillon raised the bar pretty high for customer service and other companies see how devoted customers are to the BLUE presses. I do feel that is one of the primary reasons Dillon’s prices are HIGH. But of course, I have no way of knowing.


You can load anything on both the Dillon and LNL from .25 ACP to 500 N.E. Realistically, I would say that people with progressive loaders mostly load pistol ammo 99% of the time. After using the LNL, I feel confident that my Grandkids will be using when I'm gone.


In summary, the Hornady LNL has all the features of the Dillon 650 but, is much cheaper. However, the Dillon automatic case feeder is about $50 cheaper than the Hornady. Changing calipers on the LNL is faster and cheaper. The powder measure on the LNL is VASTLY SUPERIOR TO THE DILLON, at least in my opinion. I bought the LNL and am very satisfied. A shooting buddy of mine is a long time, dedicated Dillon user. He has three! After giving me a ration of "stuff" about my choice, he came over and used my LNL and sheepishly said, "That's a very nice setup!!"
"



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All in all good points but I wish to add my experience using a Dillon 550 vs. the Hornady LNL.
The Dillon 550 I have for 30 years and the Hornady LNL which i used for a few years before I sold it.
Customer service is outstanding with both companies.
I find the Dillon primer system better than Hornady's because the hornady primer slide will not tolerate any dirt or spilled powder. With the Dillon the debris doesn't have any ill effect it just gets pushed aside by the large primer shuttle. With the LNL even a speck of powder keeps the primer slide from seating properly under the case carrier. In a auto index machine a missed primer can lead to other negative effects such as spiller powder and sequence problems.
Moving the powder measure from toolhead to toolhead on the Dillon is not a long or difficult process after you have done it a few times. No need to buy a bunch of powder measures if you don't want to.
I understand that the case feeder for the Dillon 650 is better than the Hornady unit and cheaper as well. This helps to bring the price closer together. If you go progressive loading you might as well have the case feeeder to do it right. This eliminates the right hand shuffle mentioned earlier.
Having said this I wish I didn't sell my LNL it was a mistake and may well replace it at a later date.
 
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All presses have their pluses and minuses, that is just the way it is. In addition, some people's minuses are other's pluses, so go figure.

Pick the press that fits your needs, and go and make ammo. That is the bottom line, right???

I love my Dillon XL650, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't love a LnL, although I have spent so much time with my Dillon at this point, I can't imagine trying to switch to another platform now, nor do I have any desire.

It's all good, and as I mentioned, it is all about making ammo, not about which brand of press you own. Most of us could make anything work well. Obsessing over Red vs. Blue is such wasted energy, I just don't get it. Who cares honestly?

Make ammo. Go shoot. Smile a lot. :)
 
Obsessing over Red vs. Blue is such wasted energy, I just don't get it. Who cares honestly?

Make ammo. Go shoot. Smile a lot. :)

True, but for some reason, people get hung up on brand loyalty. Most of us aren't extreme about it. But some are, and they tend to be the most vocal.

I will say that I love my truck and my Harley. So I'm pretty brand loyal there. I really like the new S&W M&Ps so I'm building some brand loyalty there. But I understand those that love Glocks, Sigs, etc. As a business owner, I also understand brand loyalty as something that companies strive to build as it makes marketing and sales easier. In other words, it's easier to keep customers than get new ones. And selling to loyal customers is the easiest sale.

I will say that as far as reloading gear goes that I have a bit of everything. I'll go Lee if they have the best value. But I also have Hornaday, Lyman, RCBS, and a few others that I can't remember right now. But if I was going progressive and spending as much money as a good progressive cost the choice between the LNL and the Dillion would be hard. soulman's post above gives some great insight that should help many. I'd also look at the Lee gear although I'm not sure I'd buy a Lee progressive. Of course, right now, I'm not in the market so I'm not too worried, and would do a lot more research before I made such a purchase.

I guess the bottom line IMHO is that one should feel like the gear that they bought is good. That it works well, and that it makes reloading fun. Having gear that doesn't work well, or that you don't like isn't fun and that sucks.
 
I have never heard of a LNL owner that has more than one powder measure.

I confess, I have three. The second was grabbed at a good price, so I have one with each size rotor. I think the third is for .223 to avoid messing with one of the others, unsure since I haven't used it in a year. Rifle is expanded separately. I have a number of lower assys too, so PTE insertion and expanding settings are dedicated to a specific cartridge. It is less troublesome though, if one doesn't expand at the powder measure, able to afford a separate station for expanding.
 
One point about Dillon and the powder measure. I have a Dillon 650, and have only been reloading with it for about a month. I have yet to use the Dillon measure... I just moved over my Lee Auto-Drum that has served me well. Works just as well on the Dillon as it did on a Lee Turret, throwing exactly the same charge (and charge range) of N320 as before. If you don't love the Dillon powder measure, it's not as though that's the only powder drop that works on a Dillon!
 
Similar to ATLDave, I use a modified Redding 10-X (handgun) or an RCBS Uniflow (rifle) in a Hornady case activated powder system die on my Dillon BL550. Also I use them on a Hornady L-N-L and an RCBS Pro2000.

I have a couple Dillon SDB's along with their Dillon powder measures so I am familiar with them. They work but they remind me of Rube Goldberg when I'm operating one of the SDB's. When I bought the Dillon 550, the BL550 came without a powder measure so why buy something I would probably not use anyway.
 
It's all good, and as I mentioned, it is all about making ammo, not about which brand of press you own. Most of us could make anything work well. Obsessing over Red vs. Blue is such wasted energy, I just don't get it.

I agree, I have owned them from Lee progressives all the way to automated ones that you fill and press a button and a number of them in between.

All the ammo went bang and more importantly hit what I was aiming at. The rest is problem solving ability, how much work you want to do yourself and how much money you want to spend or invest.
 
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