Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by daniel craig, Nov 26, 2021.
That oil should be thin enough to flow, yet viscous enough to stay on slide and frame rails and bcg’s for a full session of shooting.
If it sucks, I’ll wipe it off when I’m cleaning them and then go back to using my usuals. If it’s great, I have 8 oz of gun oil to go through before I need more.
It's good when used properly. Like you said. Not the best. But definitely has a purpose.
I don't use motor oil or ATF because both are bad for my skin, stain clothing and in general and are messier than the oil I use now.
I actually think thats a common problem, and the reason you often hear of things like gumming and varnish, ect, with things you shouldnt be hearing it from. People just put way too much on.
Glocks manual is a perfect example of what you need and what to do. It shows "1 drop" in a couple of key places, and thats it. And that applies to most other things as well.
Duck hunt, a buddies Benelli Nova pump. Cold 1st of December weather but a 10 acre pond adjacent to managed wetlands wasn't froze. At the moment of truth, up goes the shotgun and, NO BANG. Only duck for that day didn't hang around. After hunting analysis, Rem oil gummed up the firing pin channel. That hunting buddy was METICULOUS in cleaning and SPOT ON in diagnosis & expertise. It was the product's fault.
Too much of a product that will gum/varnish is definitely going to bring the issue to light much sooner, but there are products out there that just won't gum/varnish even if they're applied in excess. Dillon Precision used to sell a lubricant that they called Snake Oil. I have a grandfather clock that quit working maybe 15 years ago. I liberally dripped Snake Oil into the movement and that did the trick. I haven't done anything to it else for the past decade and a half and it's still going strong. I have to believe that if it was going to gum or varnish, that clock would be toast by now.
It costs about $50 for a 3 ounce tube if I properly recall.
I love their Teflon spray too.
I use it when I’m doing indoor cleaning because it’s non toxic and I very much love my pet.
Cancer concerns are where ballistol comes in.
I like the synthetic oil I use, but I sometimes think it's a bit thin, and am thinking of trying something heavier.
I dont use it in my cars. If I did, Id probably just drain the empty bottles into a needle oiler, which is what I use, and go with that. A small needle oiler lasts a long time, at least a couple of months or more, and I use mine two or three times a week on a number of guns.
The difference with "too much" is you've actually applied enough to leave a significant amount of "gum" or "varnish" behind after the more volatile component is gone.
"Significant amount" in this case being "enough to notice" by feel, mechanical operation, etc.
I use 5W30, as this is what my car (and some of the others) use.
I'm not saying this is "the best weight", only that it happens to be what most of our cars use.
I seriously doubt that it makes that much difference, though. You're not putting 5 quarts of it in your gun to be pumped through engineered gaps at 65 psi with an oil pump. You are quite literally applying drops here and there at strategic locations for lubrication and/or corrosion prevention.
Use what you have and see if it works for you. Use a different weight if you choose.
For lube, we usually used either a light oil, or Lubriplate for grease. I still use the latter when I feel it needs grease, like for M1's, M1A's, etc.
Ive always used any of what Ive used pretty sparingly, as opposed to hosing things down, or loading it up, like I have seen some people do. Ive shot other peoples guns, that were literally spraying me as I shot with whatever they used while I was shooting. Thats not right, or what you want, and where I think where the trouble starts, especially if they are put away "wet" like that and left to sit for a length of time.
Im sure some things are better than others for being a problem (Id avoid Frog Lube like a plague for that), but I think if whatever you use, you do use it sparingly, and/or follow the gun maker's recommendations, youll have a lot less trouble, than if you tend to go overboard and load it up.
I bought some at Walmart today.
I’ve got some two stroke bar and chain oil for the chain saw. I wonder if that would work
A good thicker synthetic oil lasts a lot longer on moving parts (I use Mobil 1), but makes *much* more of a mess if used externally. So IMO there is a place for both.
I use 5W30 Extended Performance, because that’s what I was using in my vehicle when I filled my gun oil bottles. Seems to be a good fit.
0w20 in the winter and a heavier for the summer.
You know that bar oil has got some kind of sticky stuff in it so it won't sling off as badly, might help lol.
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