Controversial opinion: RemOil is actually pretty good

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by daniel craig, Nov 26, 2021.

  1. commygun

    commygun Member

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    Motor oil thinned with a little ATF. Never a problem. Use it to clean after shooting corrosive ammo. Not a speck of rust.
     
  2. Riomouse911

    Riomouse911 Member

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    I’ll be picking up some full synthetic 0w16 motor oil for the wife’s new hybrid at Auto Zone tomorrow. When I’m done I’ll have half a quart left over. (I’d never heard of that weight until I cracked the hood and saw the oil rating sticker in the engine compartment today.)

    That oil should be thin enough to flow, yet viscous enough to stay on slide and frame rails and bcg’s for a full session of shooting.

    If it sucks, I’ll wipe it off when I’m cleaning them and then go back to using my usuals. If it’s great, I have 8 oz of gun oil to go through before I need more.

    Stay safe.
     
  3. Bfh_auto

    Bfh_auto Member

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    It's good when used properly. Like you said. Not the best. But definitely has a purpose.
     
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  4. MistWolf

    MistWolf Member

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    I ran a PSA carbine hard for some time, lubing it only with RemOil and Birchwood Casey's gun oil. Any lube is better than none and that's what I had on hand. RemOil is a bit thinner than Birchwood Casey's. The oils evaporated faster than other oils, but they weren't as messy either. It was easy to keep a can of oil on hand when we went shooting. Just apply a few drops as needed at the start of the day and shoot. Same thing we'd been doing for decades. Then apply a few drops as needed throughout the day to keep our firearms running in tip top condition.

    I don't use motor oil or ATF because both are bad for my skin, stain clothing and in general and are messier than the oil I use now.
     
  5. trackskippy

    trackskippy Member

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    I would say to those who say motor oil is messy, youre using way too much. You should only be using a couple of drops and you shouldnt see any excess on the gun.

    I actually think thats a common problem, and the reason you often hear of things like gumming and varnish, ect, with things you shouldnt be hearing it from. People just put way too much on.

    Glocks manual is a perfect example of what you need and what to do. It shows "1 drop" in a couple of key places, and thats it. And that applies to most other things as well.
     
  6. DoubleMag

    DoubleMag Member

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    Haven't seen a bad experience i.e. FTF so I'll share mine.

    Duck hunt, a buddies Benelli Nova pump. Cold 1st of December weather but a 10 acre pond adjacent to managed wetlands wasn't froze. At the moment of truth, up goes the shotgun and, NO BANG. Only duck for that day didn't hang around. After hunting analysis, Rem oil gummed up the firing pin channel. That hunting buddy was METICULOUS in cleaning and SPOT ON in diagnosis & expertise. It was the product's fault.
     
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  7. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Moderator Staff Member

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    Used to keep some RemOil on hand for when I wanted to spray-clean an area that I wouldn't be able to access easily. The carrier would evaporate pretty quickly leaving only the dry lube/protectant in place. I probably still have some around here but I won't be replacing it when I run out. Now I would use Hornady One Shot or maybe Hoppes Gun Medic for that purpose. They both seem to be better cleaners, better dry lubes after the carrier evaporates and, from what I've seen in some of the corrosion tests, the One Shot is actually a better than average corrosion preventive.
    Too much of a product that will gum/varnish is definitely going to bring the issue to light much sooner, but there are products out there that just won't gum/varnish even if they're applied in excess. Dillon Precision used to sell a lubricant that they called Snake Oil. I have a grandfather clock that quit working maybe 15 years ago. I liberally dripped Snake Oil into the movement and that did the trick. I haven't done anything to it else for the past decade and a half and it's still going strong. I have to believe that if it was going to gum or varnish, that clock would be toast by now.
     
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  8. Mousegun

    Mousegun Member

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    For the less financially challenged amongst us, Krytox grease is pure teflon and it is not affected by heat. It is often used in spring air guns where the temperature at the transfer port reaches 2000 degrees for an instant, but long enough to ignite mineral based oils. With Krytox, that doesn't happen.
    It costs about $50 for a 3 ounce tube if I properly recall.
     
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  9. daniel craig

    daniel craig Member

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    I love their Teflon spray too.
     
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  10. daniel craig

    daniel craig Member

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    I use it when I’m doing indoor cleaning because it’s non toxic and I very much love my pet.
     
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  11. daniel craig

    daniel craig Member

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    Cancer concerns are where ballistol comes in.
     
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  12. Harriw

    Harriw Member

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    For you folks using mobile 1 (or other motor oil)... what weight do you use? Or do you just grab whatever you have left over from your last oil change?

    I like the synthetic oil I use, but I sometimes think it's a bit thin, and am thinking of trying something heavier.

    Thanks.
     
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  13. trackskippy

    trackskippy Member

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    I bought 10W30 Mobile One just to use for my guns.

    I dont use it in my cars. If I did, Id probably just drain the empty bottles into a needle oiler, which is what I use, and go with that. A small needle oiler lasts a long time, at least a couple of months or more, and I use mine two or three times a week on a number of guns.
     
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  14. RetiredUSNChief

    RetiredUSNChief Member

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    Gumming up or leaving varnish isn't a factor of how much...it's what the lubricant is made of or contains.

    The difference with "too much" is you've actually applied enough to leave a significant amount of "gum" or "varnish" behind after the more volatile component is gone.

    "Significant amount" in this case being "enough to notice" by feel, mechanical operation, etc.
     
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  15. RetiredUSNChief

    RetiredUSNChief Member

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    I use 5W30, as this is what my car (and some of the others) use.

    I'm not saying this is "the best weight", only that it happens to be what most of our cars use.

    I seriously doubt that it makes that much difference, though. You're not putting 5 quarts of it in your gun to be pumped through engineered gaps at 65 psi with an oil pump. You are quite literally applying drops here and there at strategic locations for lubrication and/or corrosion prevention.

    Use what you have and see if it works for you. Use a different weight if you choose.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2021
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  16. trackskippy

    trackskippy Member

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    Back before all the boutique gun stuff showed up, we used WD40 for decades, and never had the gumming or varnishing issues you hear so much on the internet. Its what we had, and it seemed to work OK. Didnt really use it as a "lube", but for wipe down rags and as an action flush, and as a water displacement for guns out in the weather or that went into the river. It was never left on or in the gun where it was obvious that it was there.

    For lube, we usually used either a light oil, or Lubriplate for grease. I still use the latter when I feel it needs grease, like for M1's, M1A's, etc.

    Ive always used any of what Ive used pretty sparingly, as opposed to hosing things down, or loading it up, like I have seen some people do. Ive shot other peoples guns, that were literally spraying me as I shot with whatever they used while I was shooting. Thats not right, or what you want, and where I think where the trouble starts, especially if they are put away "wet" like that and left to sit for a length of time.

    Im sure some things are better than others for being a problem (Id avoid Frog Lube like a plague for that), but I think if whatever you use, you do use it sparingly, and/or follow the gun maker's recommendations, youll have a lot less trouble, than if you tend to go overboard and load it up.
     
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  17. GNP

    GNP Member

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    I've used 20W-50 motorcycle Mobil1 for slides on semi-auto pistols, it seems to stay there a little better. I would imagine any weight would work well though.
     
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  18. kje54

    kje54 Member

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    I use Rem Oil and Hoppe's most often and still have a can of CRC 5-56 that I haven't used in quite a while, used to use it on my cap and ball revolvers. After getting multiple recommendations for Ballistol I finally ordered a can 6 months ago, have yet to use it, probably when the Rem Oil runs out.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2021
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  19. irishlad

    irishlad Member

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    I bought some at Walmart today.

    20211127_103831.jpg
     
  20. daniel craig

    daniel craig Member

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    I’ve got some two stroke bar and chain oil for the chain saw. I wonder if that would work :rofl:
     
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  21. benEzra

    benEzra Moderator Emeritus

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    In my experience, it works great for short-term lubrication, but it dries out very quickly. It is great for oiling blued and parkerized finishes, though.

    A good thicker synthetic oil lasts a lot longer on moving parts (I use Mobil 1), but makes *much* more of a mess if used externally. So IMO there is a place for both.
     
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  22. benEzra

    benEzra Moderator Emeritus

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    I use 5W30 Extended Performance, because that’s what I was using in my vehicle when I filled my gun oil bottles. Seems to be a good fit.
     
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  23. Insignificant bill

    Insignificant bill Member

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    Never used Remoil much. I Use Deep Creep
     
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  24. Anchorite

    Anchorite Member

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    0w20 in the winter and a heavier for the summer.
     
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  25. GNP

    GNP Member

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    You know that bar oil has got some kind of sticky stuff in it so it won't sling off as badly, might help lol.
     
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