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Creating savage switch barrels

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by docsleepy, May 7, 2013.

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  1. Clark

    Clark Member

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    I drilled for a pin last year in a Rem700.

    I don't have any trouble getting the pin to come out.
     
  2. JShirley

    JShirley Administrator Staff Member

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    I dunno. Some folks think that new-fangled Thompson Contender might have promise...but, nah, no-one'll actually use that thing. Sure, it's not a bolt-action, but it's not like any bolt-action rifles could just have a scope mounted on the barrel. I mean, that never happens, right?

    Oh, wait. That's actually fairly common. So, it's no big deal.
     
  3. backbencher

    backbencher Member

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    One question - suppose you get one barrel all finangled, head spaced correctly, and you glue the back half of the bbl nut in & twist the 1st bbl out. How do you set headspace on the 2nd bbl?

    <rereads> - ah, I see, you're putting the nut on the bbl, & then freefloating down the bbl channel the diameter of the nut. So you can buy standard Savage takeoff bbls, you just have to buy a new nut each time.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013
  4. Clark

    Clark Member

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    You don't need new nuts.

    But if you take a barrel off, the glass bedding under the barrel has got to go.
     
  5. docsleepy

    docsleepy Member

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    I don't usually bed the barrel -- just the receiver.
     
  6. backbencher

    backbencher Member

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    So how are you setting headspace on the 2nd bbl then?
     
  7. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    If I were doing it, I would take the action out of the stock, put the new barrel in, screw down the nut at correct headspace, then pin, screw, or glue it like the first one.
    After that, it would be a straight changeout, assuming enough clearance around the nut and shank to get barrels in and out without unscrewing the guard screws.
     
  8. ironworkerwill

    ironworkerwill Member

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    solder the nut on. After spacing of course.
     
  9. PedalBiker

    PedalBiker Member

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    Or use Red Loctite.

    I did the switch barrel thing, it's not really worth it to me.

    You need to rezero each time and you seldom get headspace exactly the same every time, so then you're full sizing brass....
     
  10. ironworkerwill

    ironworkerwill Member

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    Yep the red! That'll do it. Same end result. TORCH!
     
  11. backbencher

    backbencher Member

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    I'm still confused. Is the nut secured to the bbl or to the receiver?
     
  12. ironworkerwill

    ironworkerwill Member

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  13. docsleepy

    docsleepy Member

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    Watson: that is exactly the idea. I have a barrel on there right now, am about to replace, think I might attempt a setscrew or pin to hold it; that would give me a chance to try out this idea. While I have it out of the stock to headspace the next barrel, I could test putting it back on.

    I have some marks on my barrel that showed its angular position where it closed on the GO versus NOGO gauge. On the 1.something" chamber end of the barrel, circumferential movement of about 3/8" separated "go" and "nogo" gauges, a few thousandths of headspace. You could very clearly set it "tight" "Medium" or "loose" however you wished.

    My ability to set shoulders back on reloaded rounds is somewhat less than perfect: measurements suggested that my errors were in the .002" range (different brass, different hardness I guess), so I just settled on FL sizing .002" or so short and that was pretty good. Factory brass was more like .020 short -- quite a difference.

    So I think one could easily set headspacing accurate enough for reasonably sized brass -- and according to my friend, the guys in the local benchrest group have successfully done it with shouldered-barrels (Rem700 style). I just don't like paying (and finding!) a gunsmith who can do that, when I can go it myself with a Savage.
     
  14. docsleepy

    docsleepy Member

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    I doubt I could solder them. That would be risking the temper properties of the barrel I think; some of my barrels are stainless, some are chrome-moly and who knows how they would solder.

    With about 1.125" dia chamber end, and about .430 case dia, there should be 0.3" worth of metal between chamber and OD.....I'm not sure I'm willing to drill radially into that! Maybe with a milling machine. Doubt I could get more than a thread or two. Pin, maybe. But JBWeld would probably hold the nut...


    Is red loctite as strong as JBWeld?? I've never used it. Anyone have experience?

    A tangential pin also a possibility
     
  15. ironworkerwill

    ironworkerwill Member

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    The red is incredibly strong. But you'll need a torch to loosen it.
     
  16. ironworkerwill

    ironworkerwill Member

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    I'd trust the red over jb. I trust silver solder over all others other than tig welding it. The torch only needs to get the barrel nut up to melt temp and warm the barrel up to bond temp. The flux and capillary action will do the rest the barrel will not loose any temper. The jb is brittle and may crack under tortional stress over time.
     
  17. docsleepy

    docsleepy Member

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    Great advice
     
  18. docsleepy

    docsleepy Member

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    Well the new barrel arrived yesterday and the precision nuts today. And when I went to make the switcher -- could NOT find the RED Loctite.... drat! Bought a tube JUST for this project and put it somewhere special....

    I ended up mixing up some JBweld, and carefully glued the old barrel nut, spaced so it would headspace just perfectly right at the GO gauge, then took it off, being careful to put the nut exaxtly same spot,

    headspaced the NEW bull shilen barrel, with some JBweld under the new precision nut on THAT barrel, and snugged it up also.

    I do not as yet have any "flats" on the barrels, so no good way (other than rubber-coated pliers jaws) to turn the barrels, but that could be added.

    I have access now to a milling machine and once I get it going well, I could mill in the flats to fit some just-about-same-size-as-barrel open ended wrench.

    Not sure how open I am to TESTING it just right now, but after I get the new barrel tested out and working properly, it might be worth a try.
     
  19. scythefwd

    scythefwd Member

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    It is being done in F class shooting. They have a shoulder on the barrel..

    As to the utility of a switch barrel

    go shooting varmints one day.. use the 22-250

    Go Elk hunting at 500y the next week, 30-06 or .308 or 270 or even a 25-06

    Daughter wants to go hunting for deer the next week, 7mm-08


    use QD rings and a different scope for each barrel.. 2-3 shots and you're back ready to go.
     
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