Crimped Primers

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RCBS crimp cutter in a table top drill press, the cutter has a shoulder to limit depth of cut.
Only problematic primer for me has been PSD. LC not much different than no crimp brass
 
I've broken a few decapping pins and even bent the rod a few times but I don't remember ever doing it because of a crimped primer. It was always a small piece of gravel hidden in the case that did me in. By habit, I do things slow and smooth. I even talk slow!
 
I came up with a method to prevent over chamfering primer pockets. I use a RCBS VLD Chamfer and Deburring tool mounted in a high speed drill or attached to a high speed motor. When the tool hits the bottom of the pocket, the crimp is gone, without removing too much material. 356834.jpg
 
The good thing about the crimped primer is that it practically guarantees that the case is once fired. When I first started reloading, I cut them with a chamfer tool. Quickly decided that wasn't worth it. On the advice of forums, I ended up buying the Dillon super swage - it's comparatively expensive, but no regrets.
 
I also place the RCBS reamer in my drill. Takes a little technique to keep the cartridge from spinning. I find it doable.

Also any ideas on how to avoid over reaming? How can you tell you are over doing it.. besides noting that the primer will not stay in the pocket.

Ream a little out and seat a primer. See if there is enough wall pocket to hold the primer with a magnifying glass. Wall pocket should meet the base of the primer dome. About a second with the reamer will do it and reamed depth maybe 1/32". Trial and error.
 
I just started loading for .223, picked up lots of LC and Fed crimped brass at the range. Bought a used RCBS primer pocked swager at a gun show for 10 bucks. After a few adjustments as to how much to swage it works great. Loaded 500 or so rounds so far. hdbiker
 
When I have a container of .223/5.56 range brass to process for the first time I just process as if they are all crimped. It's part of the process. You only have to do it once. For me it works but I do not do thousands at a time. 100-200 is it for me.

For 9mm crimped I have found I have a coffee can almost full now that they go in, and I do not process those. They have been kept to help someone out with brass if they need it, emergency stash, or to process "when I get time". Plenty of 9mm around I don't have to cut crimps on those little devils.

-Jeff
 
When I have a container of .223/5.56 range brass to process for the first time I just process as if they are all crimped. It's part of the process. You only have to do it once. For me it works but I do not do thousands at a time. 100-200 is it for me.

For 9mm crimped I have found I have a coffee can almost full now that they go in, and I do not process those. They have been kept to help someone out with brass if they need it, emergency stash, or to process "when I get time". Plenty of 9mm around I don't have to cut crimps on those little devils.

-Jeff
Pretty much describes me. I have done as much as 500 pieces of 223 in one batch, though. I took my time with it, working about an hour at a time, until I had them all processed. I also have a bucket of 9mm that I have a separate bag for the crimped NATO brass. I'll save them up just like you do.
 
The only time I broke a decap pin was on some Berdan primed 7.62mm brass... that was my introduction to the wild world of surplus.

A Dillon swage was on my Christmas list... I got a Kahr CW45 instead (Thanks, Santa!)... but I’ll get one soon. All of the other case prep and manipulation... and people complain about twisting out a primer pocket once? Once and done in front of the TV and you have some excellent brass... I’m in.
 
I do some very amateur 100 yd Benchrest with a bolt gun.
I've been getting approx..1000 ~once fired~ unprocessed LC sent to my door for $55-60.
Took all my old, 'un-known history' range pickup back to the Range and dropped it in their bins.
Can't say I especially enjoy processing the brass, but I'm too tight to spend the extra 50 or so to have the Vendor process it for me,,,
 
SKGreen wrote:
...Can't say I especially enjoy processing the brass, but I'm too tight to spend the extra 50 or so to have the Vendor process it for me,,,

Of course, if you rely on the vendor to remove the crimp, how do you know that they removed the crimp from a truly once-fired case as opposed to processing a case that had been previously fired and had had the crimp removed a dozen firings before?
 
On this forum I have been accused of being an elitist for using Dillon products, but the Dillon super swage is the fastest primer pocket crimp remover on the market. At least in the price category below industrial punch and die machines.

411C9dq5KuL._SX425_.jpg

It is a much faster in removing crimps than by cutting them out. If you have a couple of ammo cans, or five gallon buckets, of brass to process, you will be much happier with this tool.
 
I just dunno. I have been reloading military brass since '88. I have broken zero decapping pins (Lee and RCS dies). I have gotten some very good brass that was "milspec" and yep, I removed primer crimps. No big deal, I just cut them out with a countersink, and as a lifelong machinist/mechanic I determined this to be the quickest/best method. I am not, and never been in a hurry to get a high rounds per hour reload count, so removing primps id OK with me (mebbe 1.25 seconds per case). I inspect and process, as necessary, all my brass, commercial and military (9mm, 45 ACP, 5.56, 30-06, and 7.62x51). So, all you that toss their junky milspec brass, send it to me and I'll put it to use...
 
I know there are less expensive ways of dealing with the crimp, but I went with the Dillon Super Swager. Also, like mdi posted, I too, am in no big hurry for round count. Maybe 4 or 5 seconds a crimp for me!:)
 
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